...speaking of size, what gauge are the steel ones?

--Paul

 

RB one is 1mm aluminum, ours are as well....

 

I got my RB Baffle today, and I was reading the instuctions/warnings and I am sort of afraid to install it now.

From the enclosed paper:

" Note: By its nature, this plate slows the return of engine oil to the oil pan. It is therefore more important than ever to maintain the correct oil level. However, do not significantly overfill the sump, or the front counter weight may aeriate the oil, defeating the purpose of the plate. Instead use an increased capacity oil pan."

So can this plate develop oil stravation within the engine? I just do not want to destroy my new reman...

 

how think should the baffle be? will that make a difference in its operation?

 

how think should the baffle be? will that make a difference in its operation?

 

Have you guys ever tried to install one of these things on the car, the last time i did it in my garage, i was so pissed. I was doing to on my friends car. If anyone plans on welding it in place you should try a test fit first, i found it almost impossible to slide the pan with the baffle through the oil pickup. The baffle kept on sliding around and hitting things, it took a few attempts and three tubes of silicone. But then again its was late at night and it was freezing cold.

 

How would it be to drill a few more holes to help the flow of oil, like in the areas where there is no holes? I am just real worried about oil stravation now ever since read that warning...

 

Is it alright to reuse the oil pan gasket that is on my new reman? I will be using the second gasket as recommended...

 

I would not reuse the gasket, you would kick yourself if it leakes. I used ultra grey the last two times and it worked fine.

 

I was planning on using the gasket from the reman, my new gasket I am getting and then a lot of RTV sealant. The one I got is an oil resistant and good up to 700F.. How would that work?

It sounds like you just used one gasket and sealant....

 

eyecandy

When using the Racing Beat baffle plate, the guys from Mazdatrix use silicone gasket. They do not use the OEM gasket. Also, they recommend spraying the baffle plate w/ acetone first to ensure that the baffle plate is completely clean for proper sealing/adhesion.

 

When you say silcone gasket, do you mean the stuff in the tube? or a gasket made of silicone?

 

RTV,....stuff in the tube.

 

you could weld it into the pan if you really wanted, but i would suggest, trimming it so it doesnt sandwich between the block and pan... trim it and create some tabs that can fold down and press against the sides of the oil pan. then sit it down in there at the recommended height. then tack weld it w/ slow wire feed and low amperage. if you lay down too much material too fast, itll build up too much in one place and w/o enough heat, itll just make ***** of metal and not enough penetration. slow the speed down and use low amperage so it doesnt burn thru the sheet metal and tack it into place.

i tack weld oil pump pickups on V8's once i set the height, and those are similar guage sheet metal. there have been way too many instances where the pressed-in pickup vibrated loose and fell to the bottom of the pan... bad things happen then

 

Ok, I was thinking of using both the two gaskets and RTV, how does that sound? or is that to much? Thanks!

 

This is just my opinion, but I would just use RTV.

 

No gaskets at all? Hmmm I guess I could give it a try, my I ask why you suggest no gasket?

 

I had called RB and asked what they thought of using just RTV, and they recomended the gaskets, but I decide to use the gaskets and RTV.... If that sucker leaks it will be beyond me!