2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Ohhh, so this is why you replace you engine mounts every 60K miles

Old Jun 6, 2013 | 12:59 AM
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Ohhh, so this is why you replace you engine mounts every 60K miles

After putting it off for weeks, I finally got around replacing my motor mounts. My car has been shaking quite a lot during idle, so I decided I would start off with the easiest and simplest thing, replacing the motor mounts. Today, I finally got around replacing them for some OEM ones I bought from Mazdatrix. I was able to get both of them for about $110 shipped. I used Banzais instructions on how to replace them, even though it's pretty straight forward and easy.

Banzai Racing FC Polyurethane Motor Mounts Installation Instructions


After I got them out, this is what I found:



[IMG][/IMG]

The one on the left is the passenger side mount. I'm guessing over time and with the help of the turbo, the mount broke.

I test drove it today and it runs soooooo comfortably. Before, my **** **** and licence plate (tucked between the dash and the window) would rattle, which would be embarrassing when I would give rides to people. They would ask why my car shakes so much and I would tell them the engine is too strong =O hahaha.
Or that its still cold and just goes 'Burrrrrr'

For some odd reason, it shifts a lot smoother, I'm not sure how that works though. I can honestly say, the car overall feels a lot better. If you haven't done this already, I highly recommend it.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 08:32 AM
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If you like that next time you should think about using solid mounts for the engine and transmisssion. They work great.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 01:38 PM
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Just throw a ratchet strap around the engine. It isn't going anywhere.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Chriz88DX
... next time you should think about using solid mounts for the engine and transmisssion. They work great.
On the track, sure.
On the street, not so much.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 04:03 PM
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I've been on solid mounts for 7 years on the street, don't even notice it anymore. And I'll never have buy another set cuz I don't see em wearing out anytime soon
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 04:09 PM
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on my old worn out mounts, my clutch would chatter like a bitch due to the engine flexing during engagement.

New mazdacomp mounts are great, and no more clutch chatter.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by TougeMonster
I've been on solid mounts for 7 years on the street, don't even notice it anymore.
The fact that you noticed them at all is why I object to their street use.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 12:22 AM
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The motor must've been bouncing on that passenger mount.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 12:27 AM
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It's a rubber part and just like a hose or belt should be considered a consumable.
It wore out, it didn't "fail".

If anything, time killed it.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 01:17 PM
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I got some aftermarket dea mounts that are basically the same as OEM for $38 shipped for both on amazon.

However the transmission mounts I purchased on rock auto weren't compatible at all , I don't know what they gave me is even for.


Ohhh, so this is why you replace you engine mounts every 60K miles-forumrunner_20130607_141716.jpg

Rotary > Pistons
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by clokker
It's a rubber part and just like a hose or belt should be considered a consumable.
It wore out, it didn't "fail".

If anything, time killed it.
Exactly. For most applications, they're more than good enough and isolate vibration much better than solid mounts.

Some are replacing them for more rigid mounts because the old ones break and they don't consider how long the old ones have been doing their job.

Now if you put brand new OEM ones and they can't handle the power and break in a short time, then you have a valid reason for upgrading them.

It's easy to fall for upgrade or performance parts, when sometimes you don't need their advantages and end up with their disadvantages.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 03:14 PM
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Yeah, I heard that solid mounts work great on the track, but for the street, the car would vibrate too much.

Im not sure about solid transmission mounts though
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by pfsantos

Exactly. For most applications, they're more than good enough and isolate vibration much better than solid mounts.

Some are replacing them for more rigid mounts because the old ones break and they don't consider how long the old ones have been doing their job.

Now if you put brand new OEM ones and they can't handle the power and break in a short time, then you have a valid reason for upgrading them.

It's easy to fall for upgrade or performance parts, when sometimes you don't need their advantages and end up with their disadvantages.
And very well put
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by wthdidusay82
I got some aftermarket dea mounts that are basically the same as OEM for $38 shipped for both on amazon.
Dude, clean that engine bay @_@

Anyways I suggest using the same mounts for engine and trans, last thing you want is a Trans that want's to move around but an engine that doesn't.
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 12:51 PM
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I plan on picking these up: Level Zero Motorsports

My engine doesn't move that much when I try pushing it by hand or revving it but my gear **** vibrates really bad and when driving I can see it bouncing up and down slightly. Could it just be my trans mounts need replacing and not my engine mounts? Car has 115,000kms.
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 01:40 AM
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My engine doesn't move that much when I try pushing it by hand or revving it but my gear **** vibrates really bad and when driving I can see it bouncing up and down slightly. Could it just be my trans mounts need replacing and not my engine mounts? Car has 115,000kms.[/QUOTE]

Well tbh, the whole reason I decided to change my motor mounts was because I had these issues. The shift **** would bounce up and down like you said,the chasis would vibrate so much, even during idle, and when I would push the car, it would feel as if the engine where trying to jump out. Now, after replacing the engine mounts, I can imagine how many times the engine could have popped out haha.

I decided to replace these mounts first because I had recently swapped in a TII tranny and an TII to NA driveshaft. The u-joints seemed good and the turbo mounts also were not in bad shape. I would advise you to change out these mounts first as they're cheap and fairly easy to replace. Next I would look into changing the transmission mounts as they're a bit more difficult to reach and lastly check the u-joints. I was lucky enough for my problem to be just the engine mounts, so I would advise for you to start their, you might just as lucky
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 06:56 AM
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From: rochelle, il
wow with 126K I suppose I should check mine
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