mkholmes

The link I mentioned earlier is actually http://www.mkholmes.com/ac/Basic101.txt. Soon to be just http://www.mkholmes.com/ac/ after I add some of the information I mentioned.

As always,
MK Holmes

mkholmes

To the good members of this forum.

It appears my information is not welcome, so I'm bowing out and discontinuing trying to be of assistance here. I truly apologize for stepping in trying to be of assistance as I obviously don't have the knowledge needed to be able to communicate with your properly.

For whatever its worth, below is the 'private message' I received from "jachild59" yesterday (2006.06.09 @ 11:24pm). I do appreciate the 'tone' and have to accept he is a respected member of your forum and his advice should be heeded.

So, here's the Private Message I received:
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Respectfully
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MK-

I believe you are trying to be helpful. As a fellow Texan, I am a fond of great A/C as anybody could possibly be. You may in fact be quite knowledgeble about a/c, but you don't know (as you readily admit) the first thing about FC's. FC's and rotaries in general are a completely different breed with specific problems and situations that simply do not exist in the piston world. Please do not advise a rotary owner about fixing a cooling problem when you don't know the first thing about the cooling system; you could cost him literally thousands of $ on a rebuild by simply trying to help.

Rotaries have incredible heat output compared to the piston world and these cars have very robust cooling systems. But they are very very unforgiving. For example, do you know how many times a rotary can overheat? The answer is ONCE! and now you need a very expensive rebuild. A rebuild may cost more than the car is worth. Look on the FS threads and you will find requent 'deals' on nice cars with overheated engines and failed coolant seals. I have an opportunity to buy a 'nice, nearly perfect' 1988 vert with a fine top, good paint nice leather and new tires. For $300. If my drive wasn't so full of FCs and Toyota Celica convertibles now (5 project cars) I would buy it, too.

I am not trying to be rude, but when you give advice, you take on a great responsiblity. Don't advise on what you don't understand.

And let the mods and search ****'s take care of the OT posts. Don't come onto a 2-year old 8 page A/C thread and presume to tell JDriftM with his a/c related issue that he is off-topic. If you don't know what the problem is, maybe someone else can help him. BTW, his problem is probably a TPS or BAC problem and Search is his friend. BAC compensates for the additional load when the a/c compressor is engaged. It's function is to to maintain idle speed when the Compressor switches on and off. This system is really directly related to A/C operation and you don't know this, so you can't help JDriftM... A general rule around here is that if you don't know, don't answer. And you don't know so...

Take this in the spirit it is intended.

Good luck.
__________________

In an RX7 'Vert, everyday is a Holiday...
******
RX7 Convertible-The Anti-Prius
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TII parts for sale: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=543116

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So, to all those who have been patient with my information, I do bid you a great weekend and once again offer my sincere apologies.

Thank you and adios!

As always,
MK Holmes

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

Lets say i buy some of this Freeze 12 in ebay and have somone smarter than me install it and get my system up and running. My car runs at about 1/3 to 1/2 temp gauge in this arizona heat now and wont running the AC raise the possibility of overheating my precious?

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

MK-

I believe that discretion is the better part of valor, hence the PM. Since you have chosen to broadcast the PM, I won't bother with PM's with you again.

No one wants to run you off. Don't be so sensitive. I don't know if I am a respected member of this forum, but if I am it is only for what I have to offer on topics with which I can help. I certainly have no weight to throw around nor do I intend to try to bully anyone.

Your a/c advice is fine and it is welcome by me and I am sure by the other members you have helped. Your advice is a little generic and you have to ask lots of questions since you do not know the basic setup of the FC A/C system. But you seem to have time and the patience to go through that process. That is the reason we are all here-to help and to receive help. Most of us help wherever we have experience and practical knowledge. We read and absorb what we can of the rest. Over the years I have been member of several different car forums. This is the best, most knowledgeable most helpful group I have ever been around with the possible exception of the Rennlist Porsche forums.

My two real points distilled to the essence were as follows:
First, do no harm, (if you don't know, don't answer) and

Let the Mods moderate the threads. They are the mods because they are for the most part beyond mere mortals regarding FC knowledge.

I think you should stick around advise on A/C since you know it and hang out here if you want. You will have more fun if you buy an FC.

Jack

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

if your cooling system is in good condtion and you don't have a FMIC, you should be fine. I believe there are several FC drivers in AZ using Freeze 12 with great results.

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

yeah i know a couple of them. im just concerned that MY car might have issues staying cool, maybe its time for a thermostat change and a coolant flush along with some duct work.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Add new belts and an oem rad cap.

I don't know anything about ducting. Ducting supposedly can greatly increase cooling capacity. Like any other mod, I suspect that it can be done very effectively and that it can also be done very poorly with a decrease in cooling. Get lots of help, advice from experienced ductors (new word?).

Good luck.

Jack

coldfire

iTrader: (1)

if you have a pretty much stock car, there should be no reason that you can't run AC, even if you do live in Arizona. if you are having overheat issues, then obviously something in your system in not up to par.

of course if you are running a bigger turbo, fmic, etc, then things can get a little sketchy, but it's not impossible. as long as all parts of your cooling system (water, oil, airflow) are working properly.

RoughRex

Son of a......

I got a receiver/dryer/accumulator from autozone. Of course...it's the wrong part. SO, I move on over to Advance who doesn't even list the part. Now I'm looking at ACDELCO.com and they have two different dryers for this car one says for dealer A/C and looks correct in the pic but...I have a GXL. didn't the car come with factory A/C? The other says for cars with "nippondenso" compressor which I assume means factory air. But, it's hard to tell in the pic if the bracket is the same. Anyone know how to tell which one I need?

Ahh, BTW...It's a 88 GXL N/A

RoughRex

K...soo upon further investigation. Nippondenso is a brand....and my compressor is Sanden soooo, I think they just have these reversed as to which is dealer and which is factory. So, For the record if anyone else id looking for one of these...they have it at www.autopartstreet.com and the part # is 15-10007. I'll be sure to follow up if this is not the right part.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

In the earlier days of import cars lots of cars were imported without 'factory A/C' because the tariffs were levied on cars based on MSRP, but parts were not tariffed. You get a sustantial savings by bringing the car in without A/c and installing it the port of entry or the Dealer. I think this had pretty much gone away bythe 1990's but was very common in the 1970's and 1980's.

Regarding the reciever dryer. Auto zone and O'riellies use the same supplier and have the same part numbers for our reciever. I bought one at Autozone and it did not look right. the bracket was wrong it looked too small etc. It also had the wrong size connectors and did not in any way fit. I returned it and went to Oriellies. They listed the same one (same part number) and they were sure it would fit. I called weak bullshit on them and asked if they had anyone working there that was old.

They brought out this old guy who weezed and shook, but he did not trust the computer. He pulled out the A/C parts book and we looked up the part number. I had my old reciever. We found an identical reciever under Mazda, I think it was for an early 90's late 80's pickup also for 626. He pulled the part and it was an exact match, bracket, connectors and thread type. Exact.

I have had guys since at both Autozone and Oriellies insist that they don't have parts books anymore. That is bull. Get someone who can get past the computer to the book and then they can help you.

If I still have that reciept, I will get you the part number which is good at oriellies and also at autozone.

TexanSeven

Very informative thread.
I'm having trouble with my A/C causing a terrible idle. What can cause this? It's almost like the A/C causes a huge vac leak.

I have a detailed post here:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=a%2Fc

Thanks in advance!

txfc86

wow. good post for all the new guys out there.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

With my A/C system, it works adequately but there are two problems. It's been converted to R134a.

1. It blows cool, not cold, I've already figured out why just by reading all the posts and am debating the swtich to Freeze12.

2. When I make a semi-hard left or semi-hard right turn, like a U-turn or something similar and low speeds, what looks like water leaks into the passenger side footwell in the cabin. I'm assuming this is not normal so what could possibly cause this? Recently, I've been hearing what sounds like water everytime I engage the system, there's a sloshing sound coming from inside the vent.

RoughRex

the drain for the evaporator is clogged I think.. take the cover off the bottom and clean it and it's drain out.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

Now, whenever the A/C is on, the system leaks into the passenger side cabin, is that still the drain for the evaporator?

White94RX

I just shot a can of Freeze 12 in my car yesterday because I thought it was a little low. May be my imagination, but it seems to be not as cold as it was before! Can too much refridgerant cause it not to cool as well? I know it will if the head pressure is too high turning off the compressor, but my compressor is staying on.

White94RX

Cancel that. Had too much in the system, was cycling the compressor off.

HAILERS

About the Expansion Valve..............does the opening inside the valve open more or open less as the temperature drops at the Evaporator? I'll hold my breath while awaiting and answer.

And in ref to another post on this thread: I think the Sanden is the factory compressor, and I say so because the parts fische show the Sanden style compressor/hoses. The Nip must be the aftermarket one.

And, does the expansion valve get a 0'ring???? The parts fische is too dark for me to determine that.

Tofuball

Yep!

Sometimes the little tube pops out a bit and starts leaking like crazy.

Could also be a crack in the evaporator casing, but it's usually just the drain


What sucks about that is the ECU is directly under that leak X_X

Roen

iTrader: (2)

Any ideas on how to get the two clips at the rear of the evaporator off? I can't seem to get to them that easily. Also, what's a good way of cleaning the evaporator drain tube? I tried cleaning it, and it still seems a bit clogged. It doesn't leak anymore during use, but if I make a hard left turn, the leaks still come from the evaporator. That tells me that there's a clog either in the drain or that the other plastic tube to the right of the evap box is clogged. What is that gray tube to the right of the black evaporator box anyway?

Roen

iTrader: (2)

I've managed to get every last clip off, except the last one in the front of the car which its access is blocked by 1. room and 2. a screw right behind it. Any ideas on how to get that last one off? My evap still leaks like a ***** after I've cleaned it and its drain tube out. I'm thinking it drains too slowly and then leaks out through the horribly designed couplers on each side.

Johny zoom

iTrader: (5)

Hailers The TXV Closes on temp. drop. and When I replaced my TXV I installed new "o" rings

topless7

http://www.ase.com/Template.cfm?Sect...ContentID=2971

Page 6 of the ASE manual shows Freeze 12 is 80% R134a and 20% 142b. Now everyone is raving over this stuff like it's so much better than R134a, but all it really seems to be is R134a with an additive that makes it compatible with the mineral oil used in R12 systems. At first I was hesitant to convert to a full R134a system, but since I'm doing a full flush I don't see how Freeze 12 could be any better.

91mazdarx7

i have a question i read the above posts about there being water in the passenger footwell i sometimes come outside and get in my car and i sometimes have water on my pass side carpet i don't think its coming from the door seal and its only every so often and the AC isnt even on for to long and i just recently got another problem now whenever i start my car and turn on the AC after about 5-10 mins of driving my idle starts to jump really bad go's from almost stalling then shoots up to 1,800 or so RPM and it does it constantly until i turn off the AC can anyone help me with these problems