The Official its Summer and There Are Going to be a Million AC Questions...THREAD
03-29-06, 09:09 PM
#102
Originally Posted by totallimmortal
I Scrapped my broken AC last month, i'm sure i'm gonna hate my self for it in the summer but it never worked anyway and I doubt i ever would have fixed it. Looks like I'dd need a sunroof installed for a little more air flow, found a place near me with a great reputation 330 sound resonable for a manual glass sunroof installed?
give me 50 bucks and ill cut a hole in your roof and cover it with saran wrap
03-29-06, 10:01 PM
#103
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Coldfire says that he used it. I wanted to know if he had to evacuate the R-12 first. It also looks like you can buy a case of R-12 and also buy guages on the same site.
03-30-06, 12:31 AM
#104
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dammit you guys, ok, i will tell you guys exactly what i did, and whatever information you need for filling with ES-12a, haha:
1) my air conditioning did not work when i got the car (duh). i went to a certified air conditioning shop/garage, and got the system evacuated (there was nothing in it anymore) and tested. they told me exactly where the one leak was, and quoted me at some rediculous amount for R134 conversion. i went out and bought a replacement o-ring to fix the leak.
~$60
2) after some searching, reading this thread, etc. i went to autorefrigerants.com
ES-12a is what you want to use with our cars. they have a DIY kit you can buy that includes everything you need:
Quick-kit with R12 tap/chargehose and Dyecharge/Refrig. combo $39.95 ($4.00 shipping). ( comes with 3 cans of ES-12a dyecharge product and a custom R12 tap/chargehose for installing dyecharge directly into existing R-12 service fittings). R12 chargehose fits oil-charge, stopleak and all other Enviro products.
http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm
3) pressure conversion chart: http://autorefrigerants.com/es_chart.htm
AC system capacity: http://www.mastercool.com/auto_mazda.html
all you really need to know is that 1 can of the dyecharge refridgerant is equal to 18oz of Freon (R12).
so based on the AC system capacity you need approximately 1.5 cans of the stuff.
4) additional information you don't really need to read, but can if you want: http://autorefrigerants.com/Envirotechnical.htm
So total cost is about $100 and my AC works great so far.
1) my air conditioning did not work when i got the car (duh). i went to a certified air conditioning shop/garage, and got the system evacuated (there was nothing in it anymore) and tested. they told me exactly where the one leak was, and quoted me at some rediculous amount for R134 conversion. i went out and bought a replacement o-ring to fix the leak.
~$60
2) after some searching, reading this thread, etc. i went to autorefrigerants.com
ES-12a is what you want to use with our cars. they have a DIY kit you can buy that includes everything you need:
Quick-kit with R12 tap/chargehose and Dyecharge/Refrig. combo $39.95 ($4.00 shipping). ( comes with 3 cans of ES-12a dyecharge product and a custom R12 tap/chargehose for installing dyecharge directly into existing R-12 service fittings). R12 chargehose fits oil-charge, stopleak and all other Enviro products.
http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm
3) pressure conversion chart: http://autorefrigerants.com/es_chart.htm
AC system capacity: http://www.mastercool.com/auto_mazda.html
all you really need to know is that 1 can of the dyecharge refridgerant is equal to 18oz of Freon (R12).
so based on the AC system capacity you need approximately 1.5 cans of the stuff.
4) additional information you don't really need to read, but can if you want: http://autorefrigerants.com/Envirotechnical.htm
So total cost is about $100 and my AC works great so far.
Last edited by coldfire; 03-30-06 at 12:40 AM.
06-09-06, 12:27 PM
#105
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Here ya go!
OK - it looks like you guys have a LOT of questions.
As of a few days ago, I did too. Before I give you the link, let me clarify a couple of things.
I took the test at http://www.qwik.com/ (given earlier in this thread) a while before and it was FAST AND EASY! I kept putting it off thinking I wouldn't pass. No Problem. I've been EPA certified for quite a while now and can purchase my own Freon - which leads me to the next issue.
Although I don't have an RX7 - most a/c systems are the same. My vehicle I purchased from a salvage yard (restoring) had a R12 system that didn't work.
I purchased a compressor from a rebuilder for about $100 whereas the auto parts store wanted over $300. Works great.
Always replace your Accumulator if your system is down - period.
Also, there are a LOT of information regarding a R12 to R134 conversions. As I WON'T do that, I don't have all that data handy for you (if that is your desire), but can give you some advice with it if you need.
I've also used "Stop Leak"... so if you have any questions - I'll try to be as candid as possible.
As far as freon is concerned, I used FR12 (Better known as Freeze 12) http://www.freeze12.com/ (also given earlier in this thread). I did quite a bit of research prior to choosing it and WOW - super cold (I live in the South btw). I was never dissatisfied. Keep in mind also... Both R12 and FR12 are 100% compatible and FR12 can be added to a R12 system without any problems and/or additional parts and/or conversions - except it is illegal. Keep in mind I'm not advocating 'topping off' your R12 system with FR12 - Just letting you know that FR12 'appears' colder than R12 and they are 100% compatible...
To cut this story down - I recently decided to change my a/c system to a home a/c system. We won't get into this now as I'm experimenting. However, in the last week or so - I've built up a pretty good arsenal of information and broke it down into "Layman's Terms" (including R22 information). Also, you may see some information from this thread in the document. Thought I'd 'throw that in' as it was some 'good things to know'.
And as it appears you (as a general rule) are pretty handy and for the most part seem to have good common sense and don't mind getting your hands dirty, so... I have a gift for you... Click here "http://www.mkholmes.com/ac/basic101.txt" for all the information you need to understand A/C systems and probably enough to get you started on the track you need.
As I already know how to charge a system - it wasn't important for me to document it, however if you need - I'll take the time. Let me know.
BTW, I put this link out there "just for you guys/girls" a few minutes ago. Really. I've actually looked at different forums, but you guys seem to need the help the most. Plus - as a group - you seem to have the saavy to use the information properly.
Anyway, just click on the link above and let me know what you think. If you find any errors - please let me know that as well.
PS. One last thing. As I update my website (soon to be a full ecommerce site), this link http://www.mkholmes.com/ac/basic101.txt may cease to work. If so, click on this link --> http://www.mkholmes.com/ac/ and it should get you there (and probably more). mkh
As always,
MK Holmes
As of a few days ago, I did too. Before I give you the link, let me clarify a couple of things.
I took the test at http://www.qwik.com/ (given earlier in this thread) a while before and it was FAST AND EASY! I kept putting it off thinking I wouldn't pass. No Problem. I've been EPA certified for quite a while now and can purchase my own Freon - which leads me to the next issue.
Although I don't have an RX7 - most a/c systems are the same. My vehicle I purchased from a salvage yard (restoring) had a R12 system that didn't work.
I purchased a compressor from a rebuilder for about $100 whereas the auto parts store wanted over $300. Works great.
Always replace your Accumulator if your system is down - period.
Also, there are a LOT of information regarding a R12 to R134 conversions. As I WON'T do that, I don't have all that data handy for you (if that is your desire), but can give you some advice with it if you need.
I've also used "Stop Leak"... so if you have any questions - I'll try to be as candid as possible.
As far as freon is concerned, I used FR12 (Better known as Freeze 12) http://www.freeze12.com/ (also given earlier in this thread). I did quite a bit of research prior to choosing it and WOW - super cold (I live in the South btw). I was never dissatisfied. Keep in mind also... Both R12 and FR12 are 100% compatible and FR12 can be added to a R12 system without any problems and/or additional parts and/or conversions - except it is illegal. Keep in mind I'm not advocating 'topping off' your R12 system with FR12 - Just letting you know that FR12 'appears' colder than R12 and they are 100% compatible...
To cut this story down - I recently decided to change my a/c system to a home a/c system. We won't get into this now as I'm experimenting. However, in the last week or so - I've built up a pretty good arsenal of information and broke it down into "Layman's Terms" (including R22 information). Also, you may see some information from this thread in the document. Thought I'd 'throw that in' as it was some 'good things to know'.
And as it appears you (as a general rule) are pretty handy and for the most part seem to have good common sense and don't mind getting your hands dirty, so... I have a gift for you... Click here "http://www.mkholmes.com/ac/basic101.txt" for all the information you need to understand A/C systems and probably enough to get you started on the track you need.
As I already know how to charge a system - it wasn't important for me to document it, however if you need - I'll take the time. Let me know.
BTW, I put this link out there "just for you guys/girls" a few minutes ago. Really. I've actually looked at different forums, but you guys seem to need the help the most. Plus - as a group - you seem to have the saavy to use the information properly.
Anyway, just click on the link above and let me know what you think. If you find any errors - please let me know that as well.
PS. One last thing. As I update my website (soon to be a full ecommerce site), this link http://www.mkholmes.com/ac/basic101.txt may cease to work. If so, click on this link --> http://www.mkholmes.com/ac/ and it should get you there (and probably more). mkh
As always,
MK Holmes
06-09-06, 12:55 PM
#107
pfft.
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I tried searching, and couldn't find anything for this. heh. I have an '88Tenth Ann, and whenever i use the air, the engine heats up like all get out. Needless to say, i don't use the AC anymore. I don't really have the time to work on something like this, should i just take it somethere and get raped in the *** and get it fixed? Or is there a relatively simple way of doing it, that doesn't take very long... probably not. 
06-09-06, 01:20 PM
#108
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Before I spend anymore effort on this thread...
J-Rat, are you saying this is not a helpful thread and it is going to be closed?
Simply Complex - In the meantime, let's see if I can assist you a little...
1) When you're not using the a/c, does the vehicle runs cool and smooth?
2) When you turn on the a/c, does it blow cold?
3) Please excuse my ignorance, but I don't own a rx. So, I have to ask - is the condenser behind the radiator using the cooling system cooling fans to cool the engine?
As always,
MK Holmes
J-Rat, are you saying this is not a helpful thread and it is going to be closed?
Simply Complex - In the meantime, let's see if I can assist you a little...
1) When you're not using the a/c, does the vehicle runs cool and smooth?
2) When you turn on the a/c, does it blow cold?
3) Please excuse my ignorance, but I don't own a rx. So, I have to ask - is the condenser behind the radiator using the cooling system cooling fans to cool the engine?
As always,
MK Holmes
06-09-06, 01:39 PM
#109
Originally Posted by mkholmes
Before I spend anymore effort on this thread...
J-Rat, are you saying this is not a helpful thread and it is going to be closed?
J-Rat, are you saying this is not a helpful thread and it is going to be closed?
Absolutely not!! I am saying it needs to be archived for future use. I am in full agreement with you on using freeze 12, and any information you provide is always welcome!!
06-09-06, 01:52 PM
#110
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Thanks
Thanks for the clarification.
This is one of the best posts I've found in a long time. It would be a shame to end it. A/C will be one of those "Never Ending Stories" that people will need every year.
As always,
MK Holmes
This is one of the best posts I've found in a long time. It would be a shame to end it. A/C will be one of those "Never Ending Stories" that people will need every year.
As always,
MK Holmes
06-09-06, 01:53 PM
#111
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Okay, as far as my AC goes...
When the AC isn't on, the car runs beautifully. It actually runs cooler than most other TIIs i see around. When it's not 75+degrees, the AC blows cool air. Unfortunately, when it's below 75 degrees, i don't really need AC, so thats kind of useless. When it's hot out period, the car runs warmer, obviously. But when i turn on the air, the needle shoots up, and the car runs pretty bad. The air isn't really all that much cooler than the air outside. Not cooler enough to have my car run like that, anyway.
When the AC isn't on, the car runs beautifully. It actually runs cooler than most other TIIs i see around. When it's not 75+degrees, the AC blows cool air. Unfortunately, when it's below 75 degrees, i don't really need AC, so thats kind of useless. When it's hot out period, the car runs warmer, obviously. But when i turn on the air, the needle shoots up, and the car runs pretty bad. The air isn't really all that much cooler than the air outside. Not cooler enough to have my car run like that, anyway.
06-09-06, 02:49 PM
#112
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Try this
Sorry for the delay in replying... I wrote all this out and pressed 'submit' and it 'kicked me out', so I had to log back in and rewrite everything... 
So, I'm going to try this again...
We're going on the 'assumption' the engine cooling fans also cool the a/c condenser. Also, we will have to 'assume' by what you've given me that the a/c is working properly.
So, a little 101 to start with (hopefully you don't mind)...
When you first start your vehicle when it is cool, the fans won't 'kick on' until the engine has warmed up sufficiently. Well, when you turn on your a/c, the fans should 'kick on' regardless of the temperature of the engine - so...
1) With your engine cold and the hood up, start the vehicle and you should notice the cooling fan(s) off. Turn on the a/c. If the fan(s) don't engage, then you have a bad relay. If you have multiple fans - both should engage. You may have a relay for each or a relay for both. Not being familiar with your vehicle specifically, you'll have to find this out yourself if necessary.
Your condenser must get hot in order to process the a/c freon properly. So, you're not only cooling your engine with the hot outside air - but also the hot air the condenser is generating - which puts hotter air through the radiator, thus making it run warmer/hotter. The next thing you may want to look at is to see if your condenser and radiator 'cooling fins' are clean. You'd be surprised how often this gets overlooked and naturally - if they are not clear, air cannot pass through them very well and (of course) will cause the system to run hotter. Regardless of a/c or not - you should check these regularly and keep them clean. So... the easiest way to clean these is to...
2) Take your vehicle to a 'do-it-yourself car wash' and with the vehicle running, hood up and using the 'high pressure sprayer' - spray through these throroughly. Of course, be mindful of the electric/electronic components under the hood. Extremely high odds are that you won't have any problems. However... If you're uncomfortable with this, the only other solution is to remove the radiator. This way you can easily access both the radiator and condenser. Obviously, this requires quite a bit more work.
Another area that is important regardless of a/c or not is your coolant. So...
3) Go to the auto parts store and get a 'Coolant Tester' (inexpensive) and make certain you have a 50/50 mix of water/coolant in your system. If not - fix it - regardless.
Finally. If all the above fails, the next area I figure it would be would be the a/c is not charged properly. Although it may 'feel' as if it working properly - it may really not be. Naturally, if it is not charged properly - then it will work harder and hotter! Keeping in mind what I indicated above about the a/c condenser needing to heat up - well, if it is 'super-heating' beyond normal - naturally, it will cause a hardship on the cooling system (as well as a/c system) as a whole. So, if all else fails...
4) Check the charge on your a/c.
================
Last, but not least... I have noticed elsewhere that persons add 'disclaimers' to their posts and I have found it better to 'be safe than sorry', so here goes...
I can only advise you on what I'm given to work with. Naturally, anything you do and/or have someone else do is your (and their) responsibility. I can tell you that I will only give 'certain advice' in the areas I'm 'certain of'. You will find (if necessary), if I'm not certain about an issue - I'm not shy - I'll actually indicate "I'm not certain". Well enough of this.
Well, let me know if any of this helps you or not. I'd be happy to hear your solution.
As always,
MK Holmes
So, I'm going to try this again...
We're going on the 'assumption' the engine cooling fans also cool the a/c condenser. Also, we will have to 'assume' by what you've given me that the a/c is working properly.
So, a little 101 to start with (hopefully you don't mind)...
When you first start your vehicle when it is cool, the fans won't 'kick on' until the engine has warmed up sufficiently. Well, when you turn on your a/c, the fans should 'kick on' regardless of the temperature of the engine - so...
1) With your engine cold and the hood up, start the vehicle and you should notice the cooling fan(s) off. Turn on the a/c. If the fan(s) don't engage, then you have a bad relay. If you have multiple fans - both should engage. You may have a relay for each or a relay for both. Not being familiar with your vehicle specifically, you'll have to find this out yourself if necessary.
Your condenser must get hot in order to process the a/c freon properly. So, you're not only cooling your engine with the hot outside air - but also the hot air the condenser is generating - which puts hotter air through the radiator, thus making it run warmer/hotter. The next thing you may want to look at is to see if your condenser and radiator 'cooling fins' are clean. You'd be surprised how often this gets overlooked and naturally - if they are not clear, air cannot pass through them very well and (of course) will cause the system to run hotter. Regardless of a/c or not - you should check these regularly and keep them clean. So... the easiest way to clean these is to...
2) Take your vehicle to a 'do-it-yourself car wash' and with the vehicle running, hood up and using the 'high pressure sprayer' - spray through these throroughly. Of course, be mindful of the electric/electronic components under the hood. Extremely high odds are that you won't have any problems. However... If you're uncomfortable with this, the only other solution is to remove the radiator. This way you can easily access both the radiator and condenser. Obviously, this requires quite a bit more work.
Another area that is important regardless of a/c or not is your coolant. So...
3) Go to the auto parts store and get a 'Coolant Tester' (inexpensive) and make certain you have a 50/50 mix of water/coolant in your system. If not - fix it - regardless.
Finally. If all the above fails, the next area I figure it would be would be the a/c is not charged properly. Although it may 'feel' as if it working properly - it may really not be. Naturally, if it is not charged properly - then it will work harder and hotter! Keeping in mind what I indicated above about the a/c condenser needing to heat up - well, if it is 'super-heating' beyond normal - naturally, it will cause a hardship on the cooling system (as well as a/c system) as a whole. So, if all else fails...
4) Check the charge on your a/c.
================
Last, but not least... I have noticed elsewhere that persons add 'disclaimers' to their posts and I have found it better to 'be safe than sorry', so here goes...
I can only advise you on what I'm given to work with. Naturally, anything you do and/or have someone else do is your (and their) responsibility. I can tell you that I will only give 'certain advice' in the areas I'm 'certain of'. You will find (if necessary), if I'm not certain about an issue - I'm not shy - I'll actually indicate "I'm not certain". Well enough of this.
Well, let me know if any of this helps you or not. I'd be happy to hear your solution.
As always,
MK Holmes
06-09-06, 04:49 PM
#113
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- RX-7s that have air conditioning SHOULD have a seperate electric fan for the A/C condensor. at least mine does. the engine fan (for the radiator) is a clutch-type fan and is oblivous to what the A/C system is doing
- what about the ES-12a stuff i mentioned? i am using it and it seems to be working great
- what about the ES-12a stuff i mentioned? i am using it and it seems to be working great
06-09-06, 05:18 PM
#114
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Update
Ohhhh, I see...
That's been one of the variables I haven't been clear on (as you have probably noticed).
So, do you know if the A/C cooling fan is a 'supplemental cooling assist' for the engine cooling system when the A/C is engaged or is its only job to cool the condenser?
If it is designed to assist the cooling system, then this is probably the problem (not working). Even if it is only designed to cool the condenser and not working - it could still be a part of the problem (condenser overheating).
So, I would definitely start here. Being independent and all makes it even more simple to verify.
Also, cleaning the radiator should be simpler as well which makes it a definite necessary task too. And don't forget to check the coolant mix.
- As far as the ES-12a stuff you mentioned, I'm not familiar with it. Is it R12 compatible like FR12?
That's been one of the variables I haven't been clear on (as you have probably noticed).
So, do you know if the A/C cooling fan is a 'supplemental cooling assist' for the engine cooling system when the A/C is engaged or is its only job to cool the condenser?
If it is designed to assist the cooling system, then this is probably the problem (not working). Even if it is only designed to cool the condenser and not working - it could still be a part of the problem (condenser overheating).
So, I would definitely start here. Being independent and all makes it even more simple to verify.
Also, cleaning the radiator should be simpler as well which makes it a definite necessary task too. And don't forget to check the coolant mix.
- As far as the ES-12a stuff you mentioned, I'm not familiar with it. Is it R12 compatible like FR12?
06-09-06, 06:49 PM
#115
Ok, i don't think this has been covered.
My A/C has full charge and is working fine except for one thing. Every time the A/C is on when I'm driving around town, as soon as I press in the clutch and the RPMs drop to idle, the car dies. Any thing I can do to fix this? I've tried adjusting the idle but that just ***** up my idle 24/7 not just when the A/C is on.
Thanks,
J
My A/C has full charge and is working fine except for one thing. Every time the A/C is on when I'm driving around town, as soon as I press in the clutch and the RPMs drop to idle, the car dies. Any thing I can do to fix this? I've tried adjusting the idle but that just ***** up my idle 24/7 not just when the A/C is on.
Thanks,
J
06-09-06, 07:12 PM
#116
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Different Thread
This thread handles A/C problems.
There are others handling clutch issues. I can tell you (as you've already indicated) - high odds yours is not a clutch or A/C problem.
Sorry and Good Luck.
As always,
MK Holmes
06-09-06, 11:27 PM
#117
Originally Posted by JDriftM
Ok, i don't think this has been covered.
My A/C has full charge and is working fine except for one thing. Every time the A/C is on when I'm driving around town, as soon as I press in the clutch and the RPMs drop to idle, the car dies. Any thing I can do to fix this? I've tried adjusting the idle but that just ***** up my idle 24/7 not just when the A/C is on.
Thanks,
J
My A/C has full charge and is working fine except for one thing. Every time the A/C is on when I'm driving around town, as soon as I press in the clutch and the RPMs drop to idle, the car dies. Any thing I can do to fix this? I've tried adjusting the idle but that just ***** up my idle 24/7 not just when the A/C is on.
Thanks,
J
BAC compensates for the additional load when the A/C Compressor is engaged. It's function is to to maintain idle speed when the A/C Compressor switches on and off. If your BAC is bad or if it needs cleaned, your car will die at stoplights during A/C operation.
Also, check your TPS.
Good luck.
06-09-06, 11:52 PM
#119
Originally Posted by SimplyComplex
Okay, as far as my AC goes...
When the AC isn't on, the car runs beautifully. It actually runs cooler than most other TIIs i see around. When it's not 75+degrees, the AC blows cool air. Unfortunately, when it's below 75 degrees, i don't really need AC, so thats kind of useless. When it's hot out period, the car runs warmer, obviously. But when i turn on the air, the needle shoots up, and the car runs pretty bad. The air isn't really all that much cooler than the air outside. Not cooler enough to have my car run like that, anyway.
When the AC isn't on, the car runs beautifully. It actually runs cooler than most other TIIs i see around. When it's not 75+degrees, the AC blows cool air. Unfortunately, when it's below 75 degrees, i don't really need AC, so thats kind of useless. When it's hot out period, the car runs warmer, obviously. But when i turn on the air, the needle shoots up, and the car runs pretty bad. The air isn't really all that much cooler than the air outside. Not cooler enough to have my car run like that, anyway.
Check a few things.
If you haven't done the 60,000 mile maintanence, or you don't know if it has been done, do it now. At least replace all the cooling system hoses and belts.
Do you have and oem 180* thermostat installed? If you don't know install one now. get it from the dealer. Never use a parts store thermostat. They are legendary for causing just the problems you are having.
Do you have and oem rad cap? if not get one from the dealer now.
Have you completely bled the cooling system? Air in the system can be difficult to remove and can cause loss of cooling capacity. If not here is a useful tool for this purpose:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/LIS-22150.html
Does your car have the plastic underbody/belly pan under the engine compartment? If not, your car cannot properly cool. Problems will show up when the a/c works or when you work the car hard under boost.
Also, do make sure that you have a proper mix of antifreeze and water. 30% is enough in Florida, but your system capacity is a little larger than two gallons. Drain the system, add one full gallon of fresh antifreeze and enough *distilled* water to fill the system.
'Nother possibility. Have you taken off your air pump? if you have, then you will have cooling problems because the one remaining belt cannot effectively drive the fan at full capacity.
Good luck and take good care of that AE!
06-09-06, 11:56 PM
#120
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I'd just like to note to help out Mkholmes that our condensers are located directly in front of the radiator and on my '88 GXL there is no fan to supplement the AC system. The only fan I have is the thermo clutch fan mounted to the water pump which is not electronically controlled. Also, the Condenser is the first thing on our cars to contact debris after it comes through the grill.
Thanks for the help man!
I posted this in another thread but got no help so, maybe you can advise me...
My A/C has not worked since I got this car but, it's summer and I knew it's time would come. I have on order:
O-ring set
receiver/Dryer
2 12 ounce cans of R12
1 can of R12 Oil charge
1 Pressure Gauge
R12 Service hoses
1 Vent thermometer
So here's the plan...I bypassed the low side pressure switch and the compressor kicked on...SO, All I should have to do is:
1. Check the system to verify there is no pressure. If there is pressure, I take it to a shop and get it evacuated.
2. Install new O-rings and Receiver/Dryer
3. Pull a Vacuum to at least 4 in of mercury and let the system set for a while then come back and verify that the Vacuum held. If the vacuum did not hold fix leaks before proceeding.
4. Charge the system from the low side svc fitting starting with the oil then Freon to 25 ounces with the system running.
5. Verify a cool breeze and ride happy.
And that's all there is to it right?
Thanks for the help man!
I posted this in another thread but got no help so, maybe you can advise me...
My A/C has not worked since I got this car but, it's summer and I knew it's time would come. I have on order:
O-ring set
receiver/Dryer
2 12 ounce cans of R12
1 can of R12 Oil charge
1 Pressure Gauge
R12 Service hoses
1 Vent thermometer
So here's the plan...I bypassed the low side pressure switch and the compressor kicked on...SO, All I should have to do is:
1. Check the system to verify there is no pressure. If there is pressure, I take it to a shop and get it evacuated.
2. Install new O-rings and Receiver/Dryer
3. Pull a Vacuum to at least 4 in of mercury and let the system set for a while then come back and verify that the Vacuum held. If the vacuum did not hold fix leaks before proceeding.
4. Charge the system from the low side svc fitting starting with the oil then Freon to 25 ounces with the system running.
5. Verify a cool breeze and ride happy.
And that's all there is to it right?
06-09-06, 11:57 PM
#121
Originally Posted by JDriftM
I have no emissions equipment, could that be the problem?
Originally Posted by JDriftM
And to Mkholmes....yeah dude, I knew it wasn't the clutch, I was just sayin that's when the AC caused the car to mess up. Reference, that's all that was for. 
J
J
06-10-06, 12:14 AM
#122
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Soo...what would I need to put AC back in my car if I'm missing all the hoses and hardware (besides the compressor) in the engine bay? Everything else seems fine.
and where could I buy that stuff?
I have a top-mount compressor (meaning the lines screw into the top instead of the side)
and where could I buy that stuff?
I have a top-mount compressor (meaning the lines screw into the top instead of the side)
06-10-06, 12:31 AM
#123
I think I'm addicted
Ok, let me ask this (to get back closer to AC questions)
I have a retrofitted R134a system in the car right now.... and it was running ok 2 years ago
last year, i check the bubble glass thingy, and i see bubbles when i turn my AC on MAX...
so anyways i believe that i need a recharge...
I want to do it myself, but will those self-recharge kits in autozone work?
and how easy is it? (i mean, i rather deal with tranny, and engine problem (i think)
is it best to have a dual AC manifold gauge? or can i use those on-top-of the can idiot gauges?
finally, what kind of comressor oil to use? ester 100 or whatever the other kinds are....?
any input is greatly appreciated (cuz my girlfriend is gettting mad taht i am not fixing it and its hot in the car...)
Thanks
Jonathan
I have a retrofitted R134a system in the car right now.... and it was running ok 2 years ago
last year, i check the bubble glass thingy, and i see bubbles when i turn my AC on MAX...
so anyways i believe that i need a recharge...
I want to do it myself, but will those self-recharge kits in autozone work?
and how easy is it? (i mean, i rather deal with tranny, and engine problem (i think)
is it best to have a dual AC manifold gauge? or can i use those on-top-of the can idiot gauges?
finally, what kind of comressor oil to use? ester 100 or whatever the other kinds are....?
any input is greatly appreciated (cuz my girlfriend is gettting mad taht i am not fixing it and its hot in the car...)
Thanks
Jonathan
06-10-06, 02:48 AM
#124
ERTW
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ok, more clarification on the stock electric fan:
- someone should post what models they came with stock. i totally forget.
- i believe it is a THERMOSWITCH activated fan, so actually it just turns on based on a certain temperature. however, the A/C system might have to be activated also.
if no one can confirm these i will look it up in the FSM later...
- someone should post what models they came with stock. i totally forget.
- i believe it is a THERMOSWITCH activated fan, so actually it just turns on based on a certain temperature. however, the A/C system might have to be activated also.
if no one can confirm these i will look it up in the FSM later...
06-10-06, 11:55 AM
#125
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Various updates
Thanks RoughRex,
Thanks on the info regarding the condenser.
As far as your a/c - here goes.
I assume you've replaced (or going to replace the Receiver/Dryer and o-rings. Good.
I also 'assume' you're going to try to service the system yourself.
Legally - if your system has any sort of a charge, you are to go to a shop.
As far as pulling a vacuum. Pull 30in and for an hour. Also, call around to your 'Tools Rental Companies'. Some of them rent pumps by the day specifically designed for your a/c system. They should rent for around $25.00(+-). This way, you can also vacuum your hoses prior to charging as well.
You may need more R12 even if there's no leak. The amount should be posted on your compressor. If you have a leak - well, that goes without saying.
I 'assume' when you refer to a 'pressure gauge', you're referring to a 'low pressure' gauge. It would be better to have a gauge set as you could check to see if you have a 'clog' somewhere. But you probably can get by with the 'low pressure' gauge. I guess it's time for me to document 'charging instructions' and put them out on my site. I'm working this morning, but will see what I can do later this evening. I believe you would find it helpful.
For Valkyrie - I have to 'assume' the vehicle originally had A/C. If so and you haven't checked out my original post link http://www.mkholmes.com/ac/, then you may find it helpful as it describes all the components you'll need 'under the hood'.
Cybaster - It's interesting you're using a 'sight glass' with R134. I 'thought' I'd mentioned this in my document, but in case I didn't - don't use your 'sight glass' with R134. It's not accurate and could/'probably will' cause you to misdiagnose your system. Also, if you still have this 'glass' - I would 'assume' you (or someone) didn't actually 'retrofit' your system properly - which means you could have more problems than you realize. As I mentioned earlier - I didn't put R12 to R134 conversion information, but I guess its time to do that as well. I see if I can get to it this weekend.
ColdFire - As mentioned earlier... yes electric fans are activated by a 'thermoswitch' when you're not using the a/c. However, the a/c system overrides the switch and will/should turn the fan(s) on regardless of engine temperature.
Hopefully this helps each of you. More later.
As always,
MK Holmes
Thanks on the info regarding the condenser.
As far as your a/c - here goes.
I assume you've replaced (or going to replace the Receiver/Dryer and o-rings. Good.
I also 'assume' you're going to try to service the system yourself.
Legally - if your system has any sort of a charge, you are to go to a shop.
As far as pulling a vacuum. Pull 30in and for an hour. Also, call around to your 'Tools Rental Companies'. Some of them rent pumps by the day specifically designed for your a/c system. They should rent for around $25.00(+-). This way, you can also vacuum your hoses prior to charging as well.
You may need more R12 even if there's no leak. The amount should be posted on your compressor. If you have a leak - well, that goes without saying.
I 'assume' when you refer to a 'pressure gauge', you're referring to a 'low pressure' gauge. It would be better to have a gauge set as you could check to see if you have a 'clog' somewhere. But you probably can get by with the 'low pressure' gauge. I guess it's time for me to document 'charging instructions' and put them out on my site. I'm working this morning, but will see what I can do later this evening. I believe you would find it helpful.
For Valkyrie - I have to 'assume' the vehicle originally had A/C. If so and you haven't checked out my original post link http://www.mkholmes.com/ac/, then you may find it helpful as it describes all the components you'll need 'under the hood'.
Cybaster - It's interesting you're using a 'sight glass' with R134. I 'thought' I'd mentioned this in my document, but in case I didn't - don't use your 'sight glass' with R134. It's not accurate and could/'probably will' cause you to misdiagnose your system. Also, if you still have this 'glass' - I would 'assume' you (or someone) didn't actually 'retrofit' your system properly - which means you could have more problems than you realize. As I mentioned earlier - I didn't put R12 to R134 conversion information, but I guess its time to do that as well. I see if I can get to it this weekend.
ColdFire - As mentioned earlier... yes electric fans are activated by a 'thermoswitch' when you're not using the a/c. However, the a/c system overrides the switch and will/should turn the fan(s) on regardless of engine temperature.
Hopefully this helps each of you. More later.
As always,
MK Holmes