Odd electrical issues (with video)
Thread Starter
Brony
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Macon, Ga
Originally Posted by satch
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...estion-978911/
Post #9 shows you what you need to know. Yellow line om Main Pulley set to the fixed pin marker and CAS w/top removed looks just like the position in the pic.
On an S4 the pertinent fuses besides the Main fuse would be the two EGI fuses and the 15 amp Engine fuse. If you have spark then all of these fuses must be good.
Post #9 shows you what you need to know. Yellow line om Main Pulley set to the fixed pin marker and CAS w/top removed looks just like the position in the pic.
On an S4 the pertinent fuses besides the Main fuse would be the two EGI fuses and the 15 amp Engine fuse. If you have spark then all of these fuses must be good.
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Usually if it was set correctly then it stays that way, but since your car does not run in a healthy manner then it should be checked, and if needed to be reset it takes a couple of minutes if that to do.
Thread Starter
Brony
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 140
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From: Macon, Ga
Originally Posted by satch
Usually if it was set correctly then it stays that way, but since your car does not run in a healthy manner then it should be checked, and if needed to be reset it takes a couple of minutes if that to do.
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Thread Starter
Brony
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 140
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From: Macon, Ga
Originally Posted by satch
The pic is somewhat at an angle but it appears to be slightly off.
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Thread Starter
Brony
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 140
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From: Macon, Ga
UPDATE:
I feel retarded. The tank is bone dry. And I found a massive vacuum leak on the back of the manifold. Let me put some gas in it and see what it does. Will report back.
Also, I set the crank angle sensor perfect. Should run great if there aren't anymore leaks.
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I feel retarded. The tank is bone dry. And I found a massive vacuum leak on the back of the manifold. Let me put some gas in it and see what it does. Will report back.
Also, I set the crank angle sensor perfect. Should run great if there aren't anymore leaks.
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Thats for pulling error codes. The diagnostic wire on the trailing coil is exactly like the one on the leading coil, no difference.
On the lead coil there is a White plug w/two wires that are B/Y and G/Y. These two wires connect through the connector to two wires from the coil. One is Tan and the other is an off Red wire. Along w/these two wires is the Black wire that is very short in length and ends in a plastic bullet connector.
Black arrow points to it in the picture.
On the lead coil there is a White plug w/two wires that are B/Y and G/Y. These two wires connect through the connector to two wires from the coil. One is Tan and the other is an off Red wire. Along w/these two wires is the Black wire that is very short in length and ends in a plastic bullet connector.
Black arrow points to it in the picture.
Last edited by satch; Sep 12, 2012 at 03:54 PM.
Thread Starter
Brony
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 140
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From: Macon, Ga
Originally Posted by satch
Thats for pulling error codes. The diagnostic wire on the trailing coil is exactly like the one on the leading coil, no difference.
On the lead coil there is a White plug w/two wires that are B/Y and G/Y. These two wires connect through the connector to two wires from the coil. One is Tan and the other is an off Red wire. Along w/these two wires is the Black wire that is very short in length and ends in a plastic bullet connector.
Black arrow points to it in the picture.
On the lead coil there is a White plug w/two wires that are B/Y and G/Y. These two wires connect through the connector to two wires from the coil. One is Tan and the other is an off Red wire. Along w/these two wires is the Black wire that is very short in length and ends in a plastic bullet connector.
Black arrow points to it in the picture.
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Wrong side!
These two wires connect through the connector to two wires from the coil. One is Tan and the other is an off Red wire. Along w/these two wires is the Black wire that is very short in length and ends in a plastic bullet connector.
From the coil, from the coil, from the coil, from the coil!
These two wires connect through the connector to two wires from the coil. One is Tan and the other is an off Red wire. Along w/these two wires is the Black wire that is very short in length and ends in a plastic bullet connector.
From the coil, from the coil, from the coil, from the coil!
Last edited by satch; Sep 12, 2012 at 05:30 PM.
Thread Starter
Brony
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 140
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From: Macon, Ga
Originally Posted by satch
Wrong side!
These two wires connect through the connector to two wires from the coil. One is Tan and the other is an off Red wire. Along w/these two wires is the Black wire that is very short in length and ends in a plastic bullet connector.
From the coil, from the coil, from the coil, from the coil!
These two wires connect through the connector to two wires from the coil. One is Tan and the other is an off Red wire. Along w/these two wires is the Black wire that is very short in length and ends in a plastic bullet connector.
From the coil, from the coil, from the coil, from the coil!
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Perhaps you have a coil off of a JDM car. There should be an identifying stamp on the coil which states what model it is and so on. Mine says N327.
Last edited by satch; Sep 12, 2012 at 06:21 PM.
Thread Starter
Brony
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 140
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From: Macon, Ga
Originally Posted by satch
Perhaps you have a coil off of a JDM car. There should be an identifying stamp on the coil which states what model it is and so on. Mine says N327.
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I think you're the first person I've seen to not have the diagnostic wire. It would have helped to have to see if your tach itself was the problem or something else at the trailing coil so it's not that vital to have.
The Yellow/Blue wire at the trailing coil is responsible for sending the tach signal. You/ll want to see if the plug is perhaps not making good contact or if the wire has been corrupted.
The Yellow/Blue wire at the trailing coil is responsible for sending the tach signal. You/ll want to see if the plug is perhaps not making good contact or if the wire has been corrupted.
Its clear its some Electrical problem, Im guessing a ground somewhere If all these things happen at once. And i would check the wireing harness grounds. And find out what is working and what is not working.
if all the gauges are acting up its not going to be some coil issue. its also possible you might have an Electrical issue with the key switch.
if all the gauges are acting up its not going to be some coil issue. its also possible you might have an Electrical issue with the key switch.
Thread Starter
Brony
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 140
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From: Macon, Ga
I felt the need to post here that finally having more time to wrench on the 7, after setting the CAS correctly and trying to fire the car over a few times, I decided to check the CAS again. What do ya know, its out. Again. Time for a new CAS?
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