Odd electrical issues (with video)
09-08-12, 01:26 PM
#1
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http://www.youtube.com/watchv=EIksAi...e_gdata_player
Car is 1988 s4 n/a
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Car is 1988 s4 n/a
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Last edited by The_Fox; 09-08-12 at 01:31 PM.
09-08-12, 02:10 PM
#5
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Originally Posted by The_Fox
http://www.youtube.com/watchv=EIksAiIWJ08&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Car is 1988 s4 n/a
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Car is 1988 s4 n/a
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Originally Posted by satch
Video does not work.
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09-08-12, 02:25 PM
#6
That's definitely not 4,000 rpm. Look at your leading coil and trailing coil and you'll notice that both have a short lengthed Black wire connected to nothing. Jumper a wire from one to the other and see if that makes your regular stock tach work. The tach gauge normally works off of the trailing coil but either that coil, wiring connection or the tach itself is broken.
09-08-12, 02:38 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by satch
That's definitely not 4,000 rpm. Look at your leading coil and trailing coil and you'll notice that both have a short lengthed Black wire connected to nothing. Jumper a wire from one to the other and see if that makes your regular stock tach work. The tach gauge normally works off of the trailing coil but either that coil, wiring connection or the tach itself is broken.
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09-08-12, 03:53 PM
#9
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Did all these problems happen at once? Or these all seprate issues you are trying to fix now? If the oil pressure reads lower than 25 on idle check it with a mechanical gauge. Dont make my Mistake. I blew out a front oil cover oil seal. And Passed it off as something else.
how long has the fuel gauge not worked?
how long has the fuel gauge not worked?
09-08-12, 04:06 PM
#10
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Originally Posted by rx7_FREAKKK
Did all these problems happen at once? Or these all seprate issues you are trying to fix now? If the oil pressure reads lower than 25 on idle check it with a mechanical gauge. Dont make my Mistake. I blew out a front oil cover oil seal. And Passed it off as something else.
how long has the fuel gauge not worked?
how long has the fuel gauge not worked?
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09-11-12, 09:11 AM
#12
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Update:
The car now refuses to stay running period. Before, as long as I gave it some throttle I could keep it running. Now I'm lucky if it actually runs. Starting to think its the trailing coil. Any ideas?
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The car now refuses to stay running period. Before, as long as I gave it some throttle I could keep it running. Now I'm lucky if it actually runs. Starting to think its the trailing coil. Any ideas?
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09-11-12, 09:58 AM
#13
The car just needs the leading coil to start and run. And the 12 volts on both voltmeters is rather poor. How about some details. When was the last time the tach in the dash worked and if it did work did it mirror the aftermarket tach? How long has the aftermarket gauge indicated a 4k idle when it clearly is not idling at that level. The trailing coil is what provides the signal for the stock tach gauge. How did you wire in the aftermarket tach? The leading coil must have the Black diagnostic wire that ends in a bullet connector exactly like the trailing coil. Was it cut or did you cut it off?
Last edited by satch; 09-11-12 at 10:06 AM.
09-11-12, 11:53 AM
#14
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Originally Posted by satch
The car just needs the leading coil to start and run. And the 12 volts on both voltmeters is rather poor. How about some details. When was the last time the tach in the dash worked and if it did work did it mirror the aftermarket tach? How long has the aftermarket gauge indicated a 4k idle when it clearly is not idling at that level. The trailing coil is what provides the signal for the stock tach gauge. How did you wire in the aftermarket tach? The leading coil must have the Black diagnostic wire that ends in a bullet connector exactly like the trailing coil. Was it cut or did you cut it off?
1. About 2 months ago the factory tach worked and mirrored the aftermarket tach perfectly.
2. About a month ago, after letting the car sit in the driveway for less than a week, the factory tach started not responding correctly. A week later it stopped working all together. This time frame is about the same time frame that the other gauges started acting up.
3. I did not wire in the aftermarket tach. It was there when I received the car. 4. Seeing as I cannot find the diagnostic wire on the leading coil, I'm assuming thats how they are feeding signal to the aftermarket tach. I did not cut it off.
As for the voltmeter, I did not have the belt as tight as it should have been. I currently have a healthy 14.3 volts.
Maybe now that we can play the question-answer game, we can hopefully get somewhere. I appreciate your help and everyone else's.
EDIT: When I purchased the car, the only issue it was having was constant breakup under any throttle, and once I located and fixed numerous vacuum leaks and it would actually DRIVE, it had so little power that I had to go WOT in 1st gear to climb any of the hills around my neighborhood.
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Last edited by The_Fox; 09-11-12 at 11:56 AM.
09-11-12, 12:37 PM
#15
Besides the factory tach, which gauges began to act up? You mentioned the voltmeter was not acting properly due to a loose belt so outside of the voltmeter and tach which gauges started to act in a peculiar manner? Was it just the fuel gauge or the temp gauge as well. Your temp reading seemed to be at the halfway point which is too high as 1/3 should be the highest it is to read.
With the car running remove the two electrical plugs from the trailing coil. One has two wires while the other one has four of them. The car should still run. When doing this check to see if the aftermarket tach still works or not. If it stops then it was wired to the trailing coil and if it continues to run then it is relying on the lead coil for operation.
With the car running remove the two electrical plugs from the trailing coil. One has two wires while the other one has four of them. The car should still run. When doing this check to see if the aftermarket tach still works or not. If it stops then it was wired to the trailing coil and if it continues to run then it is relying on the lead coil for operation.
09-11-12, 01:02 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by satch
Besides the factory tach, which gauges began to act up? You mentioned the voltmeter was not acting properly due to a loose belt so outside of the voltmeter and tach which gauges started to act in a peculiar manner? Was it just the fuel gauge or the temp gauge as well. Your temp reading seemed to be at the halfway point which is too high as 1/3 should be the highest it is to read.
With the car running remove the two electrical plugs from the trailing coil. One has two wires while the other one has four of them. The car should still run. When doing this check to see if the aftermarket tach still works or not. If it stops then it was wired to the trailing coil and if it continues to run then it is relying on the lead coil for operation.
With the car running remove the two electrical plugs from the trailing coil. One has two wires while the other one has four of them. The car should still run. When doing this check to see if the aftermarket tach still works or not. If it stops then it was wired to the trailing coil and if it continues to run then it is relying on the lead coil for operation.
2. See above answer.
The car will not run long enough for me to perform that test.
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09-11-12, 07:30 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by satch
Since you made the video the car will only stay running for seconds or how long?
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09-11-12, 08:06 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by satch
Since it now dies rather quickly have you checked for spark and fuel? Have you checked the relevant fuses? Have you tried jumpering the fuel check connector? Have you figured out how the aftermarket tach is wired?
2. No. I just got home from work. Which fuses need checking?
3. I was wondering if there was a way to jumper the fuel pump. Give me and idea of how to accomplish this?
4. Same answer as 2. I just got home and still have NO idea how the tach is wired. Why does that matter if it ran well before?
Again, thank you and please bear with my questions, I'll provide you with all the info I can.
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09-11-12, 08:14 PM
#21
Because it isn't running correctly and since then you have gauges which are not working as good as you say they have been. Also, it now appears when the video was made you had to fight to keep the car running by adding some throttle. Question is how much throttle, and if the throttle had to be used to keep the car running then that doesn't really classify as idling.
Do you happen to have a spare CAS?
There is a Yellow and Black relay to the right of the steering column. Two rows of wires, five in all. Bottom row has two wires one being Black and the other Brown. These two wires are to be jumpered together. W/key to on or start the Blue wire in the same plug should have at least 10 to 12 volts. When it does the pump is receiving voltage.
Do you happen to have a spare CAS?
There is a Yellow and Black relay to the right of the steering column. Two rows of wires, five in all. Bottom row has two wires one being Black and the other Brown. These two wires are to be jumpered together. W/key to on or start the Blue wire in the same plug should have at least 10 to 12 volts. When it does the pump is receiving voltage.
09-11-12, 08:20 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by satch
Because it isn't running correctly and since then you have gauges which are not working as good as you say they have been. Also, it now appears when the video was made you had to fight to keep the car running by adding some throttle. Question is how much throttle, and if the throttle had to be used to keep the car running then that doesn't really classify as idling.
Do you happen to have a spare CAS?
There is a Yellow and Black relay to the right of the steering column. Two rows of wires, five in all. Bottom row has two wires one being Black and the other Brown. These two wires are to be jumpered together. W/key to on or start the Blue wire in the same plug should have at least 10 to 12 volts. When it does the pump is receiving voltage.
Do you happen to have a spare CAS?
There is a Yellow and Black relay to the right of the steering column. Two rows of wires, five in all. Bottom row has two wires one being Black and the other Brown. These two wires are to be jumpered together. W/key to on or start the Blue wire in the same plug should have at least 10 to 12 volts. When it does the pump is receiving voltage.
At the risk of sou ding like a total newbie, whats the CAS?
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09-11-12, 08:25 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by satch
Crank Angle Sensor. Used to set the timing. You need to read up about it and check it.
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09-11-12, 08:27 PM
#25
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...estion-978911/
Post #9 shows you what you need to know. Yellow line om Main Pulley set to the fixed pin marker and CAS w/top removed looks just like the position in the pic.
On an S4 the pertinent fuses besides the Main fuse would be the two EGI fuses and the 15 amp Engine fuse. If you have spark then all of these fuses must be good.
Post #9 shows you what you need to know. Yellow line om Main Pulley set to the fixed pin marker and CAS w/top removed looks just like the position in the pic.
On an S4 the pertinent fuses besides the Main fuse would be the two EGI fuses and the 15 amp Engine fuse. If you have spark then all of these fuses must be good.
Last edited by satch; 09-11-12 at 08:31 PM.
