hello everyone, thanks for reading my post.

i'm going to be having my 13b rebuilt soon by lucky 7 racing. i was curious as to what the problems ill be facing with an engine that has been raced for about 12k miles casually and has had oil temps that have seen 230-260(maybe 270) measured with racing beat oil pedistal. its also now sat in my garage with the water and oil in it for 2-3 years. i want to give it a fresh rebuild, maybe syphon or drain the fuel tank (half tank still).

the engine has 170 total thousand miles on it, N/A. its a 1989 s5 gtus. the motor was built 5 years ago with a total of 50 thousand miles on new rotor housings and lapped sidehousings. the injectors and the fuel filter were cleaned/replaced at the last rebuild. its ported, full intake box and exhaust system, and a SAFC II -10/-13 %. i remember not driving it anymore because it made a weird buzzing noise at high rpms where it spent most of its time (could be a sparkplug or the o2 sensor that is magically severed from the harness, i dont know).

i plan on doing some type of rotor lightening and balancing with my rotors if my engine isnt too beat up, too. i also want to run a compression test to see whats going on inside, unless its a bad idea at this point. its had mobil 1 sitting for all this time, too, shoot...

any input would help my cars safe/swift return greatly!
thanks,
russ

 

lucky 7 racing is a great place to get a rebuild done dunno about how good your engine components will be after it has been sitting that long in your garage though Only way to truly find out is to crack that baby open. Good luck with the rebuild though

 

i was told that all my components could be pitted after sitting for so long...i just thought the parts would need to be cleaned...

 

any discussion would help, i mean if its going to be a big enough headache i could also go turbo.

 

If you go turbo be prepared to shell out big bucks...once the power bug bites you it's over hahaha

 

If you left the water/oil in there you might as well just snag 'new' parts now to save the trouble. Chances are you already have severe rust issues where the 'coolant' was sitting.

 

If Lucky 7 is rebuilding the motor, seems like the only problem you'll have is paying them.


Semantics...it's a wonderful thing.

 

semantics? are you saying i am worrying too much? or that lucky is expensive?

 

lol no hes saying since lucky 7 is doing the rebuild, you wont have any problems except opening your wallet, its their lucky engine builder who gets to have the problems.

 

^
Precisely.

 

lol so funny. alright. so just take the plunge huh? in that case... wooooo!

 

you should look into the "waterjacketmod", if your at high rpms most of the time.

Pic from T-rex gallery...

 

go for it man, lucky 7 will tell you what you will need and give you good deals on the parts Hell right now i owe lucky 7 a bunch of money

 

ya i hope to establish a tentitive price before they start the work. i do wanna get the water jacket mod done, granted my housings are okay. theres actually a 13bre na for sale from lucky 7 atm and i am not sure if this will make more power than a 6 port could...

 

What are you going to use the car for? You should decide that before you start sinking money into it.

Also that oil temp is hot as ****, remember the oil pedestal measures the temp AFTER the oil cooler!

 

haha, ya. the car is pretty fargone with mods...no coming back now..

 

What I'm getting at is that if it's gonna be a track car you need to make sure what you do is within the rules that the group you are going to run with... You can build a pretty hot track car and then find there's nobody to race against with it. Can always do TT of course, there's rules and classing for pretty much anything.

 

You will discover an acute need for: MORE DAMNED MONEY!!!

=) welcome to owning your own personal VAMPIRE car

 

lol cracked the block, intermediate and rotor housings are toast =)