hurleysurf24

iTrader: (3)

Blah so the last problem i need to solve on my t2 conversion is the no idle problem.

I previously had it set to 1500 and it sounded like it was missing, however the car drove hard as hell. So the compressions should be fine. However the idle was a bit jump at anything below around 3500ish

Then dropped the idle to 750 and it will not hold at all. I have to manually idle it myself while driving (which sucks btw). If I let off the idle (which i usually hold around 2000-2200) it will drop to 1500 and set for about two seconds then it will die.

I'm thinking that there is a vacuum leak (possibly intake mani)? Am I completely wrong and or could there be another issue I may be missing here?

Also in the morning when I first start it up and hold revs at 3000 ... if I let off the gas I can hear something that sounds like a person exhalig, but louder. And no its not a bov .. lol i dont have an aftermarket.

BlueTII

Check the TID, (turbo inlet duct) for cracks. If the engine has healthy compression then it is a huge vaccum leak somewhere between the AFM and the block.

phoenix7

as mentioned above: look at the TID for cracks, look for cracked or bad vaccuum lines, make sure YOU plugged everything back during install. Check your TPS to make sure it's within specs. Start there and see what results you come up with.

rlse2003

i had the same problem and theres this valve thing that goes from the intercooler to the manifold and that was broken i fixed that and now my car runs fine... hope that helps

HAILERS

The big sigh or person exhaling sounds like one of the intercooler hoses isn't clamped.

One of the best methods of fixing turbo problems is installing PVC piping in lieu of the intercooler and then idling the car in the driveway and observing things with a can of starter fluid (forget the propane, carb cleaner bullshit). I"ll jpg a pic later maybe.

There's a host of things that could make the thing not idle. Most written in the posts above i.e. the TID connection at the turbo having a crack under the clamp.

Others are the brake booster line loose, BAC air feed lines loose at one end or the other. The vacuum lines at the rear of the throttle body installed wrong. I mean the four one above the other at the rear of the throttle body. ONLY one is vacuum and should go to the water thermo device to its left. That nipple is the bottom one.

Or the oil injector vacuum/air lines off. Or the primary fuel injector bleed air line off or going to the bottom nipple at the rear of the throttle body. Or the Air Supply Valve at the back of the throttle body left off and an open hole resulting. Or the small hose on the intercooler off or cracked.

By the way, I had a brake booster line cracked that caused me troubles once. Ran fine but had an erratic idle. Starter fluid found the crack.

YES. PVC piping and starter fluid WILL fix your car.

hurleysurf24

iTrader: (3)

i know you have a ton of posts so your pretty credible around here .. but wouldnt that cause the car to over heat by removing the intercooler .. or am i missing something

Jollyone

the hoses have a rep for blowing off if they aren't wired tight, from the boost.

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

he is saying to just put that on there so you can chase vac lines with starter fluid. the intercooler is just designed to lower pressurized air temps down. it will be more than ok if its at idle to diagnose the problem.

and again... jolly shut up. none of my vac lines are wired on and i run over 1 bar and they have never blown off.

HAILERS

Yes. You missed the point. The idea is to remove the 0BSTRUCTION that is called the intercooler so you can access the screws that adjust the fast idle cam etc and also let you pin point leaks and STUFF that is wrong.

You can readily adjust the TPS, fast idle cam screws. dashpot, access the nipples behind the throttle body with STARTER FLUID, see if the throttle shaft is sitting on its stop screw and other STUFF.

If it isn't TID related, then do the PVC pipe as shown in the jpg by NZCONVERTIBLE that I attached. My PVC rig is better in looks and function.....but the dog ate my camera. humor

Do not drive the car with the PVC. This is just for maint action.

Again, vacuum hoses on the wrong nipple make for a funky idle. I noticed this on a post I replied to just prior to this one. He suggested putting a hose on the slanted FPR nipple of intake manifold, and put the other end to the rear of the throttle body. Not a good idea since three out of four nipples back there are NON VACUUM and this would cause a funky idle. Make sense? Does to me anyway.