Thinking about adding NOS to my '88 Vert. to bridge my power thirst until I ever get around to the TII drivetrain retro-fit.

So, all you out there that have done this to your NA's, lets hear your success's, horror stories, and suggestions.

 

I am also thinkin of this option, a wet system. I have contacted dave gibson but he has not gotten back with me yet. Don't wanna get into sumin u don't know too much about, know what I mean? Any 1st hand with NOS at all would be good.

 

Ok, because I'm totally ignorant on NOS, I'll also ask this question.

What is the difference between wet and dry, the way these two NOS systems work, and the pro's and con's for each.

Related, any brands of NOS systems I should consider and which should I avoid.

For perspective, my application will be the occasional burst while driving down the freeway or back open road. Not for the drag strip.

Dave, my south of me friend, please share your wisdom on this subject.

All opinions and insites are requested here.

 

www.fc3s.org has a how-to writeup for both the wet and dry systems.

The pros are pretty obvious but the cons are never really discussed so I can't really help you with that.

 

From what I understand, a wet system puts fuel in with the NOS making it safer, and a dry system uses no fuel.

 

Sorry about not writing oyu back yet. I have been swamped working out things with the body kit thread Let me shed some light on this subject. It's kinda of funny, but for some reason there doesen't seem to be a lot of people who have used NOS on their FC's. Maybe some of this will help...

Wet System - Nitrous & Fuel injected
Dry System - Nitrous only injected

Most popular brand with best part selection and avalibility - NOS (Nitrous Oxide Systems)

With any nitrous install, and I can't emphasize this enough, COMPRESSION CHECK REQUIRED. You run the risk of plain blowing up your motor if you run nitrous on an old or tired motor. Other precautions are the same as any other mod should have. Make sure your car is in good running order. Don't install power adder mods with a bad fuel system, or problems with running too hot, or anything like that.

With that out of the way ... I recommend using the wet system for entry and intermediate users. It is really plug and play, and you don't have to do any of the fuel upgrades that you would have to do to run a higher shot on a dry system. Dry systems need tuning and lots of attention for anything over 50 shot on a stock engine (internal) When I say 50 shot and 75 shot...etc. I mean the amount of nitrous that is being injected into the motor. It is based on the size of the nozzel or sometimes called jet.

With the basic wet system that I used for my write-up on my site (listed in the write-up), you will have no problems installing it to your 88 vert. It will go in exactly like mine did provided you follow the included manual and follow my pictures and write-up. For those that want ot do this in a 89+, the fuel tapping is different due to the fuel rail, but is still easy to do.

As far as the pro's and con's:

Pro's - power on demand, best bang for the buck out there, easy to install for even the beginner, refills are pretty cheap (~$30 for 10lb bottle), with a 50 shot (stock jets for the kit I used) bottle lasts quite a long time, won't affect motor wear with correct install, easy to upgrade with larger jets.

Con's - can destroy your motor if not installed correctly, has to be refilled, illegal to use on streets (everywhere??), takes up alot of space (but can be hidden well in a vert )

If you guys have any questions please feel free to e-mail me about them and I would be happy to help you out. For the average driver and car that just wants an edge every so often, it is great. For those who want to use it in racing applications, it is also great, but other things need to be done to make it legal to use. Overall rating - Great!

 

Dave, Would you reccomend RPM or switch activation? Alot of the people I've spoken to like the RPM activation but there are times when I like to drive hard but have no need to spray. I guess my question would be is this an always on deal or is there an arm button with the RPM setup like in the manual activation setup.

 

I just used the switch activation. It is controlled by an ON/OFF switch, so you flip the switch to ON then floor the pedal and the NOS is on. or to turn off the NOS just flip the power switch to OFF, then floor it and nothing will inject. The RPM is a good idea as well. Just depends on what you want. It isn't needed to run the NOS kit. Everything is included to run the NOS in that kit.

 

My thanks to all.

 

fc3.org do you run 92 octane? NOS says to use 92 octane or higher, but many say that 87 octane is much better for rotaries. Is it ok to run 87 with NOS? Is it ok to run 92 in rotary?

Thanks

 

how do the turboed rotaries take to the bottle?

 

Yes I ran 92 octane with the NOS, due mainly to the recommendation that comes with the instructions. I think it is due to the increased charge of the N2O and the added fuel. I definately think it is worth the extra security to spend the few extra bucks and run the 92/91 when you are planning to use the bottle.

 

Turbo's take well to the bottle. Alot of people use just enough to cool down their intake temps, which alone adds tons of power and also adds security to not detonate with the lower intake temps. A wet system would definately help with the higher boost levels that may happen with larger shots of NOS, and the turbo will spool faster from what I understand.

 

I think I am going to do the ATF trick(if I can go 24 hours straight w/o drivin, hehe) Then get a compression test & if all is good I will be gettin a wet system soon enough. What are good enough compression results anyways? Thanks.

 

If you get the compression test done at Mazda, which you should be , they will have all the tolerances for you when they give you the results. Make sure that the mechanics at the dealer know how to read the results before you get it checked. i have heard of dealers not even knowing how to use the damn tester!

 

OMG, I think I will take it to maztech which is supposedly a known rotary mechanic by me that is supposed to be very good. I think he would know best.