Nos
03-01-02, 12:07 PM
#2
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If you are "responsible", a 100 shot should be ok. Make sure you have plenty of fuel, like get a Walbro fuel pump and/or a Apex S-AFC, and don't use it at every stop light, and you should be fine!
03-01-02, 12:07 PM
#3
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03-01-02, 12:12 PM
#5
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Not really. Just make sure that your engine is ok. DO NOT GO OVER A 100 SHOT! That is the boundary when things get really technical and very hairy. I am planning a 75 shot on my n/a. The kit comes with different size nozzles, for bigger/smaller shots. Start SMALL, and when you feel brave, up the shot. I think a 75 shot would be PLENTY for a turbo, but a 100 can be done, but is risky.
03-01-02, 12:16 PM
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Start with the 50 shot. Then, work up. Make for damn sure you are getting enough fuel! Using nitrous oxide can actually help to make the r=engine lean out, causing detonation, and under boost, KABOOM! Bye-bye apex seals! Have fun, and be safe! ALso, check local laws concerning carrying compressed gas. I know where I live, you can do it as long as it is not hooked up, and you are over 18. I am gonna hide my bottle/bottles on the stoarage bins!
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03-01-02, 12:27 PM
#8
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i dont know how safe id feel with a nos tank "right" behind me id have it in the spait tire . the more room between me and a bottle the better
03-01-02, 12:28 PM
#9
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It really dosen't matter where it is. If it blows, it blows, and it is taking you with it! Remember, the further back it is, the closer to the fuel tank it is! 
03-01-02, 12:51 PM
#11
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It would not hurt. The guys at fc3s.org did the nitrous kit with the stock fuel system, I beleive. It would be reccomened to get the fuel pump, but it is not totally necessary!
03-01-02, 01:00 PM
#13
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I will do mine after I get a S-AFC and a Walbro fuel pump. I am just extra careful with my baby! If you are planning on running any other mods later, more fuel will help. Look at it this way, the stock TII fuel system is good for only 230 horse power. Food for thought!
03-01-02, 01:04 PM
#14
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Be careful, you may wind up getting more boost as well.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=40805
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=40805
03-01-02, 04:37 PM
#18
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Originally posted by krackerx7
if you put the tank in the back were the spare tire what if you got rearended and the tank got punctured
if you put the tank in the back were the spare tire what if you got rearended and the tank got punctured
it won't hurt you to have the bottle right behind you or right next to you.
NOS is not flamable,,it says right on the bottle non flamable.
the only thing is you whoudl put ina blow down tube,,it connects to the pressure releif and if the burst disc goes it lets all the nos out through the tube which is run through the floor board,,infact if a tech inspector at the race track sees you don't have one they may not let you race.
the only reason for the BDT is that if the pressure gets to high and the little disc goes the gas in the cockpit will put you to sleep
03-01-02, 05:34 PM
#20
I wish I was driving!
100 shot is too big. I have been told that 80 Hp shots are the limits for stock ports.
A few things to remember: if you wire it via push button, make sure you wire the gas switch so it cannot come one unless you are at QWOT. Never hit it below 3000 rpm, it can cause nitrous backfire and blow apart your intake maifold.
I recommend using a purge valve, and more importantly, using a bottle heater, PROPERLY WIRED! A fuel pump is a great idea for an upgrade, because with a wet system, if the fuel pressure isn't there, you're basically only injecting *air*.
If you use the right jets, you shouldn't run lean and pop your motor. Most wet kits put in extra gas for cooling and to prevent detonation. There's a good jetting calculator here:
http://cosmik.org/calculators.htm
Your fuel psi is about 35 and NOS systems, with a bottle heater, should run at 950 psi.
Sean Cathcart.
A few things to remember: if you wire it via push button, make sure you wire the gas switch so it cannot come one unless you are at QWOT. Never hit it below 3000 rpm, it can cause nitrous backfire and blow apart your intake maifold.
I recommend using a purge valve, and more importantly, using a bottle heater, PROPERLY WIRED! A fuel pump is a great idea for an upgrade, because with a wet system, if the fuel pressure isn't there, you're basically only injecting *air*.
If you use the right jets, you shouldn't run lean and pop your motor. Most wet kits put in extra gas for cooling and to prevent detonation. There's a good jetting calculator here:
http://cosmik.org/calculators.htm
Your fuel psi is about 35 and NOS systems, with a bottle heater, should run at 950 psi.
Sean Cathcart.
03-01-02, 05:43 PM
#21
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N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20 N20
I figured someone had to point this out What's a NOS post if someone doesn't point out its N20! 
I figured someone had to point this out
What's a NOS post if someone doesn't point out its N20!
03-01-02, 06:29 PM
#25
I wish I was driving!
Since he was going with a NOS brand system, it would correct to call it NOS now wouldn't it?
NOS has been universally accepted as something to call Nitrous Oxide (N20) since it first came out it from holley. There are other brands, yes, but does it really matter...
As for the "What is N20" questions...
NOS, DiNitrogen Oxide, or Nitrous Oxide is N20. More specifically, it is a molecule consisting of two nitrogen atoms attached to a single oxygen atom. When combusted, N20 splits into separate atoms, adding more oxygen to the system (and thus allowing more fuel to be added for more power), and the Nitrogen, already present in the air, acts as a buffer to the system.
A "WET" system is where nitrous oxide is injected ina "fog" of fuel and nitrous together via a single injector, and a dry system jets in just nitrous oxide from the bottle and uses a RRFPR (rising rate fuel pressure regulator) to add the extra gasoline through the existing fuel injectors. Dry is safer, since you can't have nitrous back fire, but more fuel mods are required. Wet is better for turbo systems, and wet has more potential for power and is easier to use.
Sean Cathcart
NOS has been universally accepted as something to call Nitrous Oxide (N20) since it first came out it from holley. There are other brands, yes, but does it really matter...
As for the "What is N20" questions...
NOS, DiNitrogen Oxide, or Nitrous Oxide is N20. More specifically, it is a molecule consisting of two nitrogen atoms attached to a single oxygen atom. When combusted, N20 splits into separate atoms, adding more oxygen to the system (and thus allowing more fuel to be added for more power), and the Nitrogen, already present in the air, acts as a buffer to the system.
A "WET" system is where nitrous oxide is injected ina "fog" of fuel and nitrous together via a single injector, and a dry system jets in just nitrous oxide from the bottle and uses a RRFPR (rising rate fuel pressure regulator) to add the extra gasoline through the existing fuel injectors. Dry is safer, since you can't have nitrous back fire, but more fuel mods are required. Wet is better for turbo systems, and wet has more potential for power and is easier to use.
Sean Cathcart