alright im a nissan kinda guy but had some terrible luck some sort of 240sx curse....i bought 3 in one month all 3 went wrong...lol anyway i went and got a 87 rx7 i dont know anything about these cars ....or rotary for that....so im wonderin what would be a good upgrade to start w/ and what i should start messin w/ when i get the car ...it is completely stock and unmolested...just sayin whats up to everyone and gettin some idea for what these cars can do

 

good choice,
what model is it ?

 

Greetings! FYI, you're in danger of converting to a rotor-head.

I'd start with giving the thing a tune-up from bottom to top; it'll get you familiar with the car and get your base-line in order. Is it an n/a or TII?

Check out the FAQ on this site and the community service manual:
http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...=118&co=1&vi=1

A few highlights are making sure your AFM, charging system, water thermo valve, and aux ports (if n/a) are working properly, and tuning your idle mixture, idle speed, TPS, possibly cleaning your fuel injectors, installing new spark plugs, etc. Most of those are detailed in the CSM linked above. I'd also give it an oil change and coolant flush, just so I knew what was in it. You'll want to use natural (non-synthetic) oil.

 

its N/A but i plan to turbo it not soon but once i figure out how these things work a little better its neat car...i pick it up and bring it home tommorrow : )

 

welcome to the club. i agree with the tune up. turboing an NA can prove to me difficult, a turbo engine swap is usually a better choice. if you were drifting your 240s expect a big difference in angle and counter steer out of the 7. if you like gripping, expect better handling from the 7.

and on a side note for what stevej88na said oil wise, might i suggest Castrol GTX.

hope you enjoy the car. they are a blast to drive

 

im lookin forward to the car i loved drifting the 240 i figure the rx 7 will have a different feel...so how do i go about a tune up on this car? also how much is a turbo motor swap? like i said ive never messed w/ rotary so this will be interesting...lol thanks for a warm welcome guys ill post pics soon although the car is gonna need work..

 

just dont molest it. Or drift it into a tree.

 

if you arent a guy who works on cars, take it to a rotary specialist. if not i would start with changing oil since its pretty important, then injectors, then rad fulsh. i would also drain and put in new tanny oil. check wheel bearings, lift car up and pull the **** out of the tire and check for play, there shouldnt be.


other than that, enjoy it.

 

i know nissans ...but my rotary not much...oil ...injectors...rad flush ...easy ...but what kinda mech.. tune ups should be done? w/ the motor....i mean....or any info on easy cheap ways to get a few hp or something would be nice thanks guys

 

Before you upgrade anything, I would be sure it's in good running order.

Getting a Factory Service Manual would be a great start. It'll show you EVERYTHING.

 

There is nothing to adjust with the motor really, If you want to go with something a little bigger, check your oil injector lines and replace all of the vacuum lines. A little seafoam in the engine may help with power a bit.

If you are looking for more power, the cheapest and easiest way would be a header and exhaust system. Then a cone filter, the exhaust is the most you can do for it though. If you don't need cats, dont get them. Everyone reccomends the RB exhaust with the presilencer shiat and what not but I ran straight pipe to a greddy muffler ( i dont know if it's off the shelf or not, it came with the td06 turbo kit) and it doesn't bother me at all, doesn't sound ricey at all, alot of people like the borla mufflers as well. Rotaries are very loud when opened up so be careful what you get.

The next step for power would be a rebuild with a street port, or a turbo swap. Turbos are easy to get alot of power and you can upgrade the stock turbo to get about 350 at the wheels.

Also, first off, out of everything, change your plugs wires and fuel filter, also your fuel sock in the tank, if there is rust in the tank get it cleaned or you will get pissed off everytime you go around a left corner.

Also, if you're planning on staying with that engine for a while, get it compression tested.

FAQ and archive is where to start.

 

Honestly.. rad flush oil all that crap is easy.

You sound like you know a decent amount about cars, so going to a rotary, its really similar untill you get involved with internal engine crap.

have wireing stuff checked out, TPS, stuff like that.

If your drifting, then you know the drill suspension. nuff said there.

spark plugs, wires, if your looking for an upgrade there, MSD 6AL, makes a difference in the top rpm band.

These cars have crappy wireing.. there old. so re-grounding the ECU (among other things) can make a difference in electrical health.


And pretty much any other question you ever have can be searched up. also if you just read random threads on here a lot of times you will learn something about something else you never thought of, and it WILL come in handy at some other time


Have fun! drft drft!

 

Only problem he could run into there is what happens when an S4 has no backpressure?

5/6th ports stop opening.. that wouldnt be good for power

 

+1


If you are going to go with an exhaust then get the racing beat header and presilencer with the split tube for the S4 aux ports. Basically the aux ports are akin to vtec, but less fun. at 3800 rpms a sleeve in the lower intake manifold is turned by an acuator that uncovers a 3rd intake port in each rotor increasing duration and flow for upper rpm power without sacrificing low rpm intake velocity. On the S4 this is partially accomplished by a tube that runs off the exhaust up to the actuators. You can either get an exhaust that retains this setup, or you can use a window switch and a lumbar pump from a ford explorer to actuate the system based on RPM.


frnakly though, if you seriously plan on going turbo in the future then dont do anything to the engine. You have a remarkably reliable motor there. Keep it stock, get your suspension worked out (its 20 yrs old) and start planning for a TII swap. or better yet do nothing, drive the car around for a while and purchase a TII down the line.


BC

 

alright so now im confused....get exhaust and headers...but if i get headers its a waste of money b/c in not to long i will turbo it and then the manifold replaces headers right? and what is the car supposed to idol at? how do i adjust it ...cuz mine is idoling at like 100/150 rpms...lol he replaces TPS and i dont think it was adjusted so anyhelp would be nice

 

i will mostlike be getting a rx8 07' motor ...since its only 600$ for the longblock and work on the old one i pull out from there so i can figure out how it works ...suspension im workin on getting....now wiring ...buy a ground kit? i know on my 90'240sx wiring sucked but never really gave me any trouble..

 

Forget the renesis (RX-8 motor) unless you want to spend alot of money and go through alot of cost for the swap.

Alot of your questions can be answered by the "search" button at the top of every page. The search button is your friend.

 

The FAQ is your friend too, and you should read it.

Here is an entry from the FAQ:

"Can I put the RX-8 engine (Renesis) in the 2nd gen?
Well, technically yes. But it is not a simple bolt-in swap. The Renesis uses different mounts, and an entirely different ECU and wiring harness. Anything can be done, but this is much more complicated then swapping any 2nd gen engine into the car. Lots of fabrication, wiring and other things must be done to support this engine. It is generally easier (and probably cheaper) to swap in the 20B three rotor, or the 13B turbo from the Turbo II."

THere are also lots of threads on it if you search.

--Alex

 

Yes just assume by running a straight pipe with no cats, i'm just purposefully running with auxiliary ports closed. You can use the air pump, wire them open, or remove the sleeves all together.

You could always run the stock manifold to the straight pipe, you can even use 3" and then when you go turbo just have them cut out a section and weld on a flange to connect to a downpipe.

 

If you are going to go turbo then dont do anything to the engine. It will be a waste of money. Just work on the suspension and get it to where you want it, and understand that the 13BT is heavier than the 13B so you will need to re-calibrate the suspension after the swap. Any engine mod you do to the car short of a catback will ultimately be unusable with a TII swap.


The renesis is the worst option of the group to swap in. Other than the awesome exhaust note you can do better with less money in any other engine choice.


BC

 

you may find a shortblock for $600 great, but the Intake manifold is, IIRC, like $2k. The exhaust manifold is COMPLETELY different than a 13b, so you are getting a new one, but its also expensive. I just cant see how you would be able to get a longblock for only $600 unless it is one of the 4 ports that suffered oil starvation issues and were subject to a recall.


BC

 

Okay.. so most of these people mosted good advice.. But, a rotary isn't much different maintenance wise....

Change the oil every 3k... keep it fueled.... and drive it like you stole it. You do have to take into consideration that this thing injects oil directly into the combustion chamber.. so, using a low-ash oil in your crank case is probably a good idea, I suggest havoline SAE or castrol GTX. Its recommended to not use synthetic at all because they will leave a residue behind when burnt.

Check my sig for a lot of information on these cars.... but there is a lot of info out there.

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx7
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/frequently-asked-questions-2nd-generation-rx-7-faq-fc-494667/
http://www.rotorwiki.com
http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...wi=2&co=1&vi=1

Welcome to the rotary world... Prepare to spend money like your married. And if you ARE married, prepare to go bankrupt.

 

Also you have to rember that if you plan to turbo a n/a rotary. you have to watch for the high compression.

 

i will defiantely be doing a swap probably a tII ...im hearing good things about those...also my motor has a little oil burning on passenger side of the motor...not sure what it could be but i was wondering if you guys could help ....i dont really see much of a slick on the ground but its definately leaking somewhere

 

Passenger side i can only think it would be from the OMP or the oil pan.

You should run premix in your gas tank until you're sure if the OMP is working good. The omp is on the front cover below the water pump if it is an 86-88 there will be a rod connecting to it from the TB.