non turbo realistic numbers? or go turbo?
#1
88 7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: delta
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
non turbo realistic numbers? or go turbo?
Hey i am planning on re-doing my engine in a couple months or so. i want to stay non turbo because i dont want to switch the rear end and all that. i am looking to get around 230hp or so (non turbo) is that realistic? im gonna be getting the engine rebuilt so while its apart id just get them 2 street port/bridge port or what ever needs to be done to get around 230hp range... so my questions are, are thoes numbers realistic from a non-turbo? if not what would be the top hp i could get without going too crazy on it, its a daily driver, i just wanna keep up to 5.0's or even my friends 89 ford probe gt (stock turbo on it)......or would changing the rear end and all that(turbo swap) be cheaper then just gettin the engine thats in it now rebuilt and ported?
#3
88 7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: delta
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
im willing to change ne thing under the hood i just dont wanna pull the tranny, rear end and all of that. if its imposable for 230hp then what would be some more realistic numbers then? or is it just imposable 2 keep up to a stock 89 turbo ford probe in a non turbo 13b?
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Apex, NC, USA
Posts: 1,294
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When my car still had it's 2-rotor motor, I was able to get in the 210 - 215 hp range. That included having the motor street ported. The advantage, IMHO, was not having to deal with all the crap that goes along with a turbo.
#6
Calm like a bomb
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Columbus, GA
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1/2 Bridgeport with renesis rotors(for higher compression) and ceramic seals would be your best bet.
You will need a Standalone to run it though, and prolly a T2 transmission if you go over a streetport. N/A trannies from what I hear and have exp'd are very brittle. After 2 rebuilds later I just got a TurboII Tranny. You would be able to keep your rearend, and halfshafts, etc, if you use the turbo tranny to n/a rearend driveshaft mazdatrix sells and counterweight and flywheel.
You will need a Standalone to run it though, and prolly a T2 transmission if you go over a streetport. N/A trannies from what I hear and have exp'd are very brittle. After 2 rebuilds later I just got a TurboII Tranny. You would be able to keep your rearend, and halfshafts, etc, if you use the turbo tranny to n/a rearend driveshaft mazdatrix sells and counterweight and flywheel.
Last edited by SASSER; 01-10-07 at 08:39 AM.
#7
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
You can't just use Renesis rotors as the apex seal grooves are to shallow for the previous seals, and the Renesis seals are not tall enough for peripheral exhausts.
Advice like this is disturbing.
If you want 230 RWHP on a non-turbo, then you'll be looking at a half-bridge at the very least. Keep in mind that NA bridgeports aren't exactly torque monsters down low but are not nearly as bad as most people say. Keeping this in mind, you will need a standalone and a proper tune to run it all. You'll want either a custom intake (the bridgeporting really screws with the stock intake tuning) or go to something like IDAs on an aftermarket manifold (TweakIT).
The transmission will be fine.
Advice like this is disturbing.
If you want 230 RWHP on a non-turbo, then you'll be looking at a half-bridge at the very least. Keep in mind that NA bridgeports aren't exactly torque monsters down low but are not nearly as bad as most people say. Keeping this in mind, you will need a standalone and a proper tune to run it all. You'll want either a custom intake (the bridgeporting really screws with the stock intake tuning) or go to something like IDAs on an aftermarket manifold (TweakIT).
The transmission will be fine.
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Vero Beach, Florida
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well you didnt mention if you want 230 at the wheels or fly wheel, because the local shop here said with a good street port, 48 webbers, and a good exhaust on an s5 engine will give you around 200-205 hp to the rear wheels. but thats what they said i dont know **** about building motors so dont hold this to me.
#9
Long rifle.
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: pittsburgh
Posts: 653
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by SASSER
1/2 Bridgeport with renesis rotors(for higher compression) and ceramic seals would be your best bet.
You will need a Standalone to run it though, and prolly a T2 transmission if you go over a streetport. N/A trannies from what I hear and have exp'd are very brittle. After 2 rebuilds later I just got a TurboII Tranny. You would be able to keep your rearend, and halfshafts, etc, if you use the turbo tranny to n/a rearend driveshaft mazdatrix sells and counterweight and flywheel.
You will need a Standalone to run it though, and prolly a T2 transmission if you go over a streetport. N/A trannies from what I hear and have exp'd are very brittle. After 2 rebuilds later I just got a TurboII Tranny. You would be able to keep your rearend, and halfshafts, etc, if you use the turbo tranny to n/a rearend driveshaft mazdatrix sells and counterweight and flywheel.
I was under the impression that the TII tranny would not accept the NA driveshaft due to larger Ujoints, thus needing to change out the driveshaft. This would lead to needing to change the rear end to accept the TII driveshaft, thus leading to having to change the Half shafts from the rear end to the wheel hubs. Correct me if I am wrong, but from everything I have seen and read, its impossible to do that swap without changing the whole drivetrain.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sherff
Adaptronic Engine Mgmt - AUS
9
02-24-19 12:09 PM
immanuel__7
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
89
09-05-15 10:23 AM