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no start again turbo2

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Old 04-20-07, 09:52 PM
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no start again turbo2

well, i got a turbo2 that i peiced together with a jdm s4 block, s5 intake and exhaust, old maf that was sitting around and cant get it to run. if i hold the maf plunger in and wode open throttle it will idle very low. not sure if the computer is good or not. i removed the bac and air pump. could it be my tps?
Old 04-21-07, 12:21 AM
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That's what she said...

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Are you sure you connected the primarys and the secondary injectors correct on the harness? Also have you done a compression check?
Old 04-21-07, 12:26 AM
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Did you spec everything out before you pieced it all back together? I mean, did you test anything at all? Sounds like you took a pile of parts and started bolting them together...
Old 04-21-07, 12:06 PM
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i did a comp test before i put it in. and after. all the s5 parts came off the engine that came with the car. it had a broken water jacket so front iron and housing was no good. i bought a s5 engine from osaka and i got a s4. so i swapped front housings and put it together. if you guys are going to act like im some kind of idiot then dont reply. this is my first rotary and am really into them.

so aside from that, i tested my tps with an ohmmeter on the white connector. and with closed throttle it reads just about within specs but when wot its way above the specs. if i adjust it lower than at closed throttle its off. bad tps? anyone got a good one? i'll go build me a tps tester with the lights just to double check my dmm.
Old 04-21-07, 07:26 PM
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I wasn't acting like you are an idiot.. I was reacting to your lack of information. You also said "old maf that was sitting around".. Doesn't sound like tride and true parts.

Sorry if you took offense. lol

Good luck.
Old 04-22-07, 12:25 AM
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well all the s5 parts came with the car when i bought it. i didnt know if they were good or not, i just put the **** together and hoped it would run. i guess that didnt work. is the s5 maf plunger supposed to be fully closed when not running? and does it actually suck it open? well i'll make me a tps tool and see what kind of error codes i have and probably test all my sensors. thanks for the support.
Old 04-22-07, 01:03 AM
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Sucks it open and yes.. fully closed when not running.. atleast thats how the S5 one is. The cone fully closes the AFM when engine is off. The engine pulling air through makes it open..
Old 04-22-07, 06:20 PM
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i checked my codes today. i got 9,18,25,31,32,34, and 42. i removed the rats nest and blocked off bac valve and airpump, so thats probably why i have some of the codes. the tps code and water thermosensor i'll have to check. what about 42. i dont have the stock boost control valve either.
Old 04-22-07, 11:05 PM
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i checked my tps with the 2 light method. both the lights stay on and neither goes off no matter which way i turn it. so i ohmed the wires and i could not get it withing spec at idle and when i went wot, it wouldnt read anything. my symptoms are the car would start but wont hold idle unless i fully open throttle. even then the idle is at only 600rpm. the idle wouldnt go any higher with throttle response. could it be a bad computer? i replaced all intake gaskets except for throttle body gasket, but that was never seperated. why does it not rev or hold idle? thanks
Old 04-22-07, 11:08 PM
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Sounds like a bad TPS to me.
Old 04-22-07, 11:31 PM
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thats what i thought but some people say that it should still idle and not die. i will try to get another tps soon and try to start it again.
Old 04-22-07, 11:40 PM
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Well, its probably not JUST a bad TPS.. but if you can't get a good sweep of resistance on the TPS with a DMM, its bad. So, getting another TPS would be a good start.
Old 04-24-07, 03:45 AM
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i checked my tps. its bad, then i put in another tps and it too is bad. i checked maf and wasnt reading right, i used a bg intake cleaner and alot of black crud came out. after that it read within spec. i started it an still same problem----it wouldnt rev past 600 rpm even at wide open throttle. at closed throttle, it would die immediately. so i tested inputs and outputs at my ecu. there is no vref signal coming out of ecu to all sensors. thers supposed to have 5 volts but there is nothing. so i guess i need a good ecu to test with. i have one question though... can a car run fine without the idiot cluster? my check engine light doesnt work but all other lights work.
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