No Start
#1
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No Start
So i bought my 88 rx7 last week and the previous owner mentioned something about a fuel problem and when i finally got it back to my house (after dealing with u-haul, don't ask) I tried everything to get it started. I did the unflooding walkthrough and that didn't do anything. I put in a new battery as well as new plugs and wires. I filled it with fuel and it sputters and i get nothing. Once it went up to 1000 rpm and the whole car was shaking and then shut off on it's own. That was the most luck that i got out of it. I tried push starting it as well as pull starting, but i wasn't really able to do ether well there were more of a no effort attempt then anything.
What i did figure out was that the bottom plugs, the center electrode was completly gone on one an the other was close behind. Also when i was cranking the engine we realised it was leaking from the injector closest to the firewall, the top o-ring was cut. I placed some fuel safe gasket paste and seemed to do the trick. So i know that i have fuel and i also know i have strong spark on all four wires, I've got another question-are the trailing?(top plugs) supposed to fire at twice the rate as the lower? or do i have the wires mixed up?
I'm also wondering about the ATF treatment, is it worth it? Does it help at all? I'm just not sure if i really want to risk it, i've heard that it smokes alot after that has been put in how long does that last. I know it's as long as the ATF is in the engine but generally how long would that be?
What other options do i have? I know that i should get it compression tested, but would a regular compression tester work? I have one intended for piston engines. If i remember right it should be about 90psi with the piston compression tester, please correct me if i'm wrong. Also once it's running i'll check the timing to make sure everything is working well.
I've heard that some people have tested low compression, but once they get it running that the compression raises back to normal. Is that normal?
I've been searching both here and the V8rx7forumn site and haven't been able to come up with anything substantial to help me fix my problem. If you are close and would like to come out and give me a hand that would be excellent too.
Thanks everyone for all your help and insight,
What i did figure out was that the bottom plugs, the center electrode was completly gone on one an the other was close behind. Also when i was cranking the engine we realised it was leaking from the injector closest to the firewall, the top o-ring was cut. I placed some fuel safe gasket paste and seemed to do the trick. So i know that i have fuel and i also know i have strong spark on all four wires, I've got another question-are the trailing?(top plugs) supposed to fire at twice the rate as the lower? or do i have the wires mixed up?
I'm also wondering about the ATF treatment, is it worth it? Does it help at all? I'm just not sure if i really want to risk it, i've heard that it smokes alot after that has been put in how long does that last. I know it's as long as the ATF is in the engine but generally how long would that be?
What other options do i have? I know that i should get it compression tested, but would a regular compression tester work? I have one intended for piston engines. If i remember right it should be about 90psi with the piston compression tester, please correct me if i'm wrong. Also once it's running i'll check the timing to make sure everything is working well.
I've heard that some people have tested low compression, but once they get it running that the compression raises back to normal. Is that normal?
I've been searching both here and the V8rx7forumn site and haven't been able to come up with anything substantial to help me fix my problem. If you are close and would like to come out and give me a hand that would be excellent too.
Thanks everyone for all your help and insight,
#3
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first off test for compression. If it is low, try adding 2-3 squirts of ATF or motor oil in the lower spark plug holes. That should do the trick if it is badly flooded. There is 5 things a car needs to run. Air, Spark, Fuel, Timing, and Compression. Check for all that.
#5
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it does crank....and it'll sputter and attempt to start but dies before it will. I'm going to replace the fuel filter this saturday, and i'll also try the oil in the plug holes before the atf. So just to double check....I can use the regular compression tester for piston engines? What read out am i supposed to look for?
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#8
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it does crank....and it'll sputter and attempt to start but dies before it will
Again just a few ideas good luck to you and your new RX7
#9
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I did get it runnning, I needed a new battery. I poured a cap full of synthetic motor oil in and it did the trick. My new problem is that it won't idle when it's cold???? As soon as it warms up it idles just fine. Also my speedometer and tach don't work, they work when i start it but with it runnin they just sit there. The other gauges work, oil pressure and battery and fuel just those two don't.
I figured out that my exhaust is shot, it has more holes then swiss cheese. Is it normal for these car so shoot out sparks from the tail pipes when it's rev'd?
My brakes also go to the floor so i'm hoping that it'll just be air in the lines, because i'm able to pump them and they work but right after they go back to being soft.
Toxindude....Is the idle screw on the throttle body? I'll check that today.
Thanks,
Dan
I figured out that my exhaust is shot, it has more holes then swiss cheese. Is it normal for these car so shoot out sparks from the tail pipes when it's rev'd?
My brakes also go to the floor so i'm hoping that it'll just be air in the lines, because i'm able to pump them and they work but right after they go back to being soft.
Toxindude....Is the idle screw on the throttle body? I'll check that today.
Thanks,
Dan
#10
Senior Member
Toxindude....Is the idle screw on the throttle body? I'll check that today.
http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=55&co=1&vi=1
http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=61&co=1&vi=1
http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=58&co=1&vi=1
They should help you adjust your idle speed and your TPS and some troubleshooting . Pretty much the same site just kinda seach threw it after you have checked those out .
This link talks about the Tach and kinda says a few things about the speedo
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ch+speedometer
This site has alot of info on stuff to
http://mazdarx7.iougs.com/intakeair.shtml
Last edited by Toxindude; 07-14-07 at 02:16 PM.
#11
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Ok so i just found out that one of the injectors is pretty messed up.....the plastic piece on the bottom of the injector, the part that goes into the manifold, is cracked completely as well as the o-ring on both are pretty much shot. The injector on the top was leaking badly when ever i tried to start it, so i put some gasketmaker on it and it wasn't gas safe which i thought it was and now it's like all over. There are alot of connectors that arn't hooked up, some towards the front on the drivers side up by the battery and some on the passenger side by the air cleaner. Not sure if those could be part of the problem i'm having. I'm gonna replace the fuel filter just to cover all my options and i'll see if i can get a pair of injectors today . Are there a set of aftermarket ones, like from a different car that will work with our cars?
#12
Those connectors you talking about are there for testing parts or accessories that weren't added!I don't know of any other injectors working on rx7's. My guess is probably not since its a rotary But i don't know.You should just have them sent out to a company to have them gone through. That way you know they are good and it shouldn't cost that much.
Another thing you should be aware of is the first two pre-cats. Get rid of them!!!
One thing with the rx7's is they need to be taken care of properly with factory parts. If you neglect on the maintenance you end up with what you bought. A car with some problem's. Don't go cheap and research-research-research!
Glad to see another 7 being put back on the road
Another thing you should be aware of is the first two pre-cats. Get rid of them!!!
One thing with the rx7's is they need to be taken care of properly with factory parts. If you neglect on the maintenance you end up with what you bought. A car with some problem's. Don't go cheap and research-research-research!
Glad to see another 7 being put back on the road
#13
Senior Member
Yeah what freemanrx7 said alot of stuff under the hood looks like its not hooked up but it is all mostly tester stuff green and white hook ups right ? If you end up buying new injectors here is where I bought mine .
http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_SetsMAZDA.asp
I dunno anything about the pre cat removal I my self am having hesitation problems my rear cat has three big holes in it so my engine isnt getting any back pressure to kick in past 3800 rpms sucks ***** .
http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_SetsMAZDA.asp
I dunno anything about the pre cat removal I my self am having hesitation problems my rear cat has three big holes in it so my engine isnt getting any back pressure to kick in past 3800 rpms sucks ***** .
#14
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There is a pic of one of the injectors. That cracked part actually comes off the injector. I got a quote of reman injectors at 81 a piece.
Yeah there are a couple green and white ones, there is a yellow one. So this is normal to have all those left open. There is a black one right behind the thermo housing that was taped off with electricial tape.
So i can't take the car past 3800 rpms with my crappy exhaust? I REALLY want to do the ls1/t56 swap so i'm not sure if i want to spend the money on a new exhaust, but i do want to drive this car around with the rotory mostly for the braging rights. Most of my friends have never heard of these or know how they work.
#15
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Damn thats one crappy injector .... 81 bucks a piece for new injectors ? If you check ou the link I posted above they have 60 dollar core charge so your only paying like 140$ for 4 new injectors you choice man . I dunno how bad off your exhuast is I m not gonna say your car wont get past 3800 its just mine wont atm cuz of huge leaks in the rear cat thats the ony place my exhuast leaks ...as for me i gotta go out in the hot *** heat and try to see what I can do ill check back in here later
#16
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You should be able to find injectors from someone on the forum in the classified section, just tell them what year your car is so they know which injector you need if you post a want to buy thread.
I would do a rats nest removal and vacuum line simplification, with new silicone lines and change all of the intake gasket and injector o-rings/grommets. Change all of the fuel hose at the same time. If you want it to be easy to idle though leave the coolant lines on the throttlebody/bac because this is what controls the cold idle.
After that, change plugs wires and fuel filter, and as long as your compression doesn't suck gopher ********* you shoul have it running fairly well if the cas and tps are properly adjusted.
More than likely the brake issue is the master cylinder.
I would do a rats nest removal and vacuum line simplification, with new silicone lines and change all of the intake gasket and injector o-rings/grommets. Change all of the fuel hose at the same time. If you want it to be easy to idle though leave the coolant lines on the throttlebody/bac because this is what controls the cold idle.
After that, change plugs wires and fuel filter, and as long as your compression doesn't suck gopher ********* you shoul have it running fairly well if the cas and tps are properly adjusted.
More than likely the brake issue is the master cylinder.
#17
I agree with monkey-prob your brake master cylinder
What up toxin? YOu should check out RB cat replacement silencer. Has a special split air pipe to give backpressure. Then gut the first two cats then add the RB. More power
What up toxin? YOu should check out RB cat replacement silencer. Has a special split air pipe to give backpressure. Then gut the first two cats then add the RB. More power
#18
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I just checked my exhaust this afternoon and it actually doesn't look to bad. I don't believe that i have two cats. It looks like only one before it splits into dual and i've got glasspacks before the tips. The only area's that have rust holes are around the mufflers and tips.
So i'm on stand still untill i can get a hold of some injectors, I've also looked at removing the rats nest, and like i said before i don't want to spend a bunch of time and money beause i'm looking at the *cough* V8 conversion. It appears that the vacumn hoses were replaced recently because they look to be new. The previous owner did some work just not alot and couldn't really remember what.
So i'm on stand still untill i can get a hold of some injectors, I've also looked at removing the rats nest, and like i said before i don't want to spend a bunch of time and money beause i'm looking at the *cough* V8 conversion. It appears that the vacumn hoses were replaced recently because they look to be new. The previous owner did some work just not alot and couldn't really remember what.
#19
Senior Member
I was just gonna buy a new rear cat but you have convinced me I am thinking about getting a new header then down pipe and the pre silencer your talkin about then leaving it stock from there back or will I have to even extend past the silencer can I leave it stock from it back , and they say on the RB site that I have to take some stuff off the car like the air pump will I have to cap the hole off or will I have to put a pipe and filter on that hole to ? and air control where is that are they talking about the MAFS ? and there was somthing else cant remember what it was ?
Last edited by Toxindude; 07-14-07 at 09:15 PM.
#20
Senior Member
sounds like you exhuast should be okay then until you upgrade it or whatever you do . You put some new or rebuilt injectors in ther and do all the tune ups and adjustments it should be good to go seems like to me . Did the guy have it sitting for a while ?
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