Any relation between the 6th port actuator being stuck(the one closer to the front bumper) and a horrible idle that ive done nearly everything to fix and on the same rotor(the one closer to the front bumper) the plugs looked fresh and clean like something isnt letting them fire...??? Ive had 2 other 7's and this is all a first.... The plugs closest to the fire wall had a normal amount of carbon built up for the amount i have been starting it, but the T on the other had a little bit of wet chunky built up but kind of clean and the L was close to being nearly untouched, kind of just heated up looking...where to start?
thanks for anything

 

Well depending on your year if its 88-89 the ports are actuated by your exhaust backpressure. While the 90-92 models were actuated by the air pump. But to answer your question I don't think there is a relation because the ports arent open until 3800 rpm. Hope this helps.

P.S. It's not very hard to take off the actuators and clean them.

 

The position of the actuator doesn't affect idle significantly, if at all. It affects low end power noticably, but the car will idle & run just fine no matter where the actuators are.

For troubleshooting the non-firing rotor: You need 3 things. Spark, fuel, and compression. Test all of them.

-=Russ=-

 

So you seem to have a misfire on 1:
Compression test (a cracked apex seal will give poor idle)
spark coil
plug wire <<(most likely)
faulty plugs are rare, but swapping them around will tell
clogged primary injector
loose or faulty injector plug <<(my favorite guess)