Fcsaln134

Hello,


I have a 2nd Gen 1991 Mazda RX-7 which has a haltech elite 550 and a retained OEM harness. I took apart most of what’s in the engine bay minus the engine and both harnesses to paint the engine bay. Wanted to verify that my starter wiring is correct as I’m getting no power to the engine fuse box.

I cut the single black wire from the smallest point after the point that it is soldered(looked like it had 2-3 wires soldered into 1 smaller gauge wire) and I twisted the wire back together and heat shrouded being that the wire was extremely long. Also, cleaned up the wiring a bit after I painted the bay to give it a better look.

Of course after this I am getting no power to the main fuse from that single black wire causing me to get nothing upon ignition on. Note, I will be buying all solder materials today to make a proper solder for solid connection.

also to note, headlights work, aftermarket fog lights which are getting power from fuse box also work which I know the battery is giving power to fuse box at this point so I have ruled that something is going on with the single black wire.

here are a couple pictures of my starter wiring. The black/yellow from the harness is the ground that goes on the back of the longest starter bolt and the black coming from the positive terminal on the battery goes to the second stud on the starter solenoid correct?

What does the kinked spade black wire from the oem harness do? also should the positive battery wire from the battery be on the stud first?

P.S. Disregard paint bubbles painted with lots of humidity in the air will wet sand and polish later…looks a ton better than it did before LOL.

thanks for assistance.

Fcsaln134

Anyone?

made an attempt at resoldering the single black wire today with success. Applied dielectric grease after and heat shroud. Before soldering, applied rosin flux and used leaded solder wire for more secure solder.

tested all connections at engine fuse box everything is getting 12.3 volts which means the main fuse is working.

tested all connections at ignition switch and not getting power to any wire meaning the single black wire somehow is not delivering power back to the ignition switch.

also, all lights work including: aftermarket fog lights(connected to engine fuse box), headlights, door card lights, some lights, horn. And also all grounds have checked out good.

Quite stumped here.

Fcsaln134

Figured it out … the cut b/w wire delivers power back to ignition switch.

Fcsaln134

Update…. Made a connection for the other black/white wire and no power still being delivered to ignition switch. Read the wiring diagrams and it looks like one of the black/white wires turns black which delivers the power to ignition switch?

Also I gave power to ignition switch and everything works when giving power to ign1, ig2, and acc so know it’s not a bad ignition switch. Also gave power to starter starter runs as supposed… as well when giving ignition switch power everything runs as supposed. Fuel pressure sends through.

Did find 1 broken wire broken through firewall… the black coated wire with MULTIPLE wires in it… could this be it? I attached it. It’s the split open wires I attached..which runs under the carpet. Gonna pull the carpet tomorrow to see where it goes.

MIDNFauciUSN

iTrader: (8)

Correct. It goes from the battery to the main fuse in a black wire, and out of the main fuse to the X-04 connector (single pin) in a black/white wire, then from X-04 to the ignition switch in a black wire.

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That is a shielded cable, generally used for low voltage signal wires such as those coming from the CAS, and between stereo components, which are susceptible to electrical interference. Don't think there are any other shielded cables running though the bay, at least OEM ones.