Replaced with a known good clutch switch still nothing

 

so now the car cranks but fails to start?

while cranking does the tach needle bounce?

 

There's the Clutch Switch and there's the Interlock Switch. Are you sure you are replacing the correct switch, and if so, then perhaps the plug connection where the item mates w/the harness is poor.

 

I think he means w/the old switch jumpered the starter worked, but w/a working replacement part the starter does not work.

 

The working replacement works didn't have it connected all the way stupid me lol but no while cranking the tak has no movement have spark and fuel to the line that feeds the rail but he hose has entirely to much pressure don't think fuel is getting into the rail

 

so the tach isn't bouncing but you have spark and fuel, fuel pressure but no fuel.

ok..

if you have spark the tach should bounce while cranking
if you have fuel you should smell raw gas at the tailpipe after cranking

just going to tell you flat out, you have either one of those missing or all of them. start by checking your EGI fuse in the engine bay followed by the engine fuse inside the car.

 

Is the turbo engine USDM or JDM?

 

I believe it's usdm do yo have a pic you can post of the fuse box under the hood so I know which ones i need to check cause this one came missing but I pulled the wires off and tested them against bear medal they are na coils will that suffice or do I need the t2

 

There's a pic in the FAQ thread towards the top of the page. Coils are interchangeable in this situation. EGI INJ fuse is 40 amps while the EGI COMP fuse is 30 amps.

 

EGI fuse is nearest the engine in the engine bay
engine fuse is at your left foot sitting in the car, lower left

 

Ok go them both are in good shape but I noticed while trying to take the fuel line off the rail there is massive amounts of pressure like the injectors arnt opening

 

Before you tried to take off the fuel line did you depressurize the fuel system? If not then that could be the cause of what appeared to be a higher than normal pressure. The primary injectors would operate while the car is either running or trying to be started, otherwise they would not open. If you truely felt the presssure was too high you could rent a gauge from a local auto parts store to measure it and compare to spec.

 

[QUOTE=satch;11409870]Before you tried to take off the fuel line did you depressurize the fuel system? If not then that could be the cause of what appeared to be a higher than normal pressure. The primary injectors would operate while the car is either running or trying to be started, otherwise they would not open. If you truely felt the presssure was too high you could rent a gauge from a local auto parts store to measure it and compare to spec.[/

On these can you just open the cap or is there something you have to do cause I heard the na motors have a releive valve I didn't think the t2 did

 

You can unplug the Circuit Opening Relay and start the car and then the engine dies due to a lack of gas. Doing this relieves the pressure in the system by a fair amount. Unplugging the fuel pump from the rear harness accomplishes the same thing.

And if you have tried to start your car repeatedly it might be flooded.

 

Ok gotcha but I finally broke down and took the uim off to check injectors all are clicking but I noticed I'm getting fuel to the fpr but then not to the rail

 

The FPR is the last item that fuel runs through before going back to the fuel tank. I believe on a JDM engine the fuel enters the secondary fuel rail first then to the primary where the FPR is and then to the fuel tank. The fuel enters the primary rail first on a USDM.

And on a side note, all your injectors shouldn't fire unless the engine was under load and the rpm was north of 3800. Until then the primary injectors would be the only injectors that would work.

 

Ok the feed line on the car is running to the fpr right now so do I need to feed it to the scondary then the return to the fpr

 

Yes. Just a reminder, the FPR has a vacuum hose running to it while the Pulsation Damper does not.

 

the line from the filter goes to the short primary rail>loop line up to the secondary rail> out the secondary rail and back to the firewall junction to return to the tank.

i just am not comprehending how you have pressure to the FPR and the car ever ran, the pressure doesn't backfeed through the FPR otherwise no pressure can get to the rails. the FPR acts as a one way check valve, so if the lines are reverse the car would never get enough fuel to start, run and drive.

 

On what Ben said, I've done this before when I had a friend help me drop my engine back in and he hooked up the fuel lines backwards thinking the FPR regulated pressure by hitting before the rails. I could always get the engine to start but it would rev to about 3000rpm and promptly die and sometimes only 2000rpm but that was as far as it would go.

 

yeah it may start for a second but the dribble that gets past the FPR runs out very quickly.

 

Indeed it does. When you get them ran right let us know how it goes and if there's any other issues we'll help you sort em out

 

The guy had the line from the filter going to the fpr was building tons of pressure there so I took it and hooked it to the secondary rail then from the secondary rail to the primary out he fpr to the return line it acts like it wants to start now but have a ton of vac leaks to attend to now