dennis blackstone

my fuel pump is not turning on ...what i tried was jumper the yellow plug in the engine bay then turn my key to on then test if voltage with my test light on the blue wire ...it did not light up ,the red and white wire lit up though...whats my next step...thanks

HAILERS2

On a series four car, when you jumper the yellow two socket fuel pump check connector, you are putting a ground on one of the two coils in the Circuit Opening Relay. IF the other side of that coil has power from the ENGINE fuse, then the relay closes and sends power to the Blue wire on the fuel pumps electrical connector (the Rear harness side of the plug, not the fuel pump pigtail side of the elect plug(s).

Try what you just tried, but this time ignore the fuel pump check connector and just HOLD the key to Start while looking for power on the Blue wire. It might help if you pull the small trigger wire off the starter solenoid first so the engine will not spin and wear things out.

Holding the key to START utilizes the OTHER relay coil in the Circuit Opening Relay.

Helps to make sure the ENGINE fuse is good first.

dennis blackstone

thanks hailers ..i checked the fuses there ok..ill unplug the wire to the the starter and crank and post the results

dennis blackstone

i tried that today hailers theres no voltage to the blue wire ...what should i try next

HAILERS2

This a Turbo wired car or a non turbo wired car?

If this is a non turbo/stk wired car, then pull the circuit opening relay out (located above the steering wheel). Put the relay aside. The get a piece of wire stripped at each end and put one end in the socket with the larger black/white wire and the other end of that wire into the socket where the BLUE wire is in the relays base.

Key to just ON. Now the pump should run or if you pull the plug off the fuel pump the LARGE blue wire should have batt pwr on it.

Engine fuse has to be good. It feeds the Black/white wire in the relays base.

ON a turbo wired car this might not work and the problem might lie elsewhere.

dennis blackstone

this is a 1987 gxl na with a j-spec turbo motor

HAILERS2

In that case do what I wrote above. Pull the circuit opening relay and jumper the B/W wire to the L or blue wire. Pump should run if the Engine fuse is good (powers the B/W wire).

If the pump does not run, then either the power to the B/W wire is missing/fuse blown or the L wire that runs b/t the circuit opening relay and the fuel pump connector is *open*. That's not likely.

I can't help but think the ENGINE fuse in the interior fuse box is blown since both methods of making the pump run did not work.

IF you used the TURBO EM harness on the engine, and mated that Turbo EM harness with the non turbo Front harness (the two Orange colored plugs in the passengers foot well), it's possible that could blow the ENGINE fuse. Since the wires b/t the Turbo and non turbo harnesses don't mate exactly right. If you used a non turbo EM harenss on the engine that problem wouldn't exist.

IF your MAIN RELAY is clicking/pulling in when the key is put to ON, then the engine fuse is good and not the problem, since the Main Relay also uses the engine fuse for power. Maybe pull the smaller of the two elect plugs off the Main Relay. Then put the key to ON. THEN reinstall the smaller plug on the Main Relay and listen/feel if the relay pulls in as you put the plug back on it. Should click when you pull that plug on/off with the key to ON.

Just to see if your ignition switch is getting power........turn your wipers on and see if they work at all or turn your turn signals on to see if they work. If those two items work with the key ON......then you know the ignition switch is sending power to the Engine fuse.

dennis blackstone

hailers im sorry for asking but where about is that relay above the stearing wheel is it? do you have a pic

HAILERS2

Above the steering column. About where your knees would be/????? Or how about halfway b/t the steering wheel and the firewall. Has a yellow base to it if memory serves. Just follow the steering shaft while looking just above it. It's there. You'll know it when you find it. If I said Wheel instead of steering column ...my bad.

dennis blackstone

no problem ill be testing that in the morning and give you my results

dennis blackstone

hailers i went to the relay and jumper the the two wires mentioned...i turned the key to on and put my test light on it ..it lit up 12v on my spare pump in the hatch it did not pump though...so im puzzled were to look next

HAILERS2

When I talk about the fuel pump wires I talk about the color of the wires on the plug on the Rear harness that connect to the fuel pumps connector. I'm not talking about the color of the wires on the plug that is attached to the fuel pumps pigtail wiring.

From memory, 'cause I'm too lazy to go look at a car, the black/white wire on the fuel pumps pigtail is the pumps power wire. It mates with the large BLUE wire on the connector that is a part of the Rear harness.

The ground wire is Black on the fuel pumps pigtail if memory serves and mates with a black wire on the plug of the Rear harness.

It just takes those two wires to make the pump work. If talking about the wires on the pumps pigtail you just need power to the black/white and a gnd to the black wire.

Maybe for some odd reason the black wire isn't grounded. Not too likely imho.

Have you ever taken the pump out and jumpered the black/white wire on the pumps pigtail to the positive terminal of the battery and the black wire to the negative terminal of the battery to see if it works or not?

Any of what I wrote above not make sense? That's always possible. I watch the tv while typing and I might have written "who stole the cookie from the cookie jar" instead of what I meant to write.

dennis blackstone

i jumpered the wires under the stearing wheel ..also i have a spare pump hooked up to the rear harness,,that pump works if i put 12v to it but when i plug it to the harness and do what you told me about ....[QUOTE=HAILERS2;9290511]This a Turbo wired car or a non turbo wired car?

If this is a non turbo/stk wired car, then pull the circuit opening relay out (located above the steering wheel). Put the relay aside. The get a piece of wire stripped at each end and put one end in the socket with the larger black/white wire and the other end of that wire into the socket where the BLUE wire is in the relays base.

Key to just ON. Now the pump should run or if you pull the plug off the fuel pump the LARGE blue wire should have batt pwr on it.

Engine fuse has to be good. It feeds the Black/white wire in the relays base.

ON a turbo wired car this might not work and the problem might lie elsewhere.[/QUOTE

afer doing that test i got 12v on the blue wire but the pump didnt pump

HAILERS2

Then the ground wire isn't grounded is the only thing I can think of. The black wire. Hard to believe though. That black wire is actually tied into two different ground points. But possible I guess.

How 'bout connecting the fuel pump connector to the harness and jumper the circuit opening relay again. Then with a piece of wire bare at each end, shove one end into the back of the Black wire in the plug and momentarily touch the other end of your new wire to a known ground point. I guess a known gnd point would be any bare piece of metal on the chassis back there.

dennis blackstone

before i try that does the ecu have anything to do with the fuel pump,

HAILERS2

The ECU has nothing to do with the fuel pump at all on a non turbo car.

On a stock wired Turbo car the ECU controls a gnd to the fuel pump resistor relay ( an item that only exists on Turbo series four cars, not the non turbo series four cars) and then that only decides if the pump sees 9vdc or full batt voltage.