No oil pressure/No primming
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10 pounds sounds so nasty
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 399
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From: N.C.
No oil pressure/No primming
ok so i have my engine all the way back 2gether giving it a few cranks and nothing, im getting no oil pressure any where. take off the oil filter i got nothin. now ive called both rotorsports and rotary resurrection both say it sounds as if im not getting any pull from the pump. in fact im getting pressure coming out of the nipple on the oil filler/inlet tube. i explained my situation to my brother-n-law and he said he runs into that problem with machines at the machine shop where they get and air bubbles in the oil pumps and they have to be primed or turned by hand till the oil gets back to the pump. now rotary ress told me to do this as well and that he has seen, altho rare, that the oil pump has to be primed in order to get any pressure and he has ran into it twice. now another person on the club had the same problem but he had clogged his oil pump up with assembly lube. he also had to prime the pump. im posting this for 2 reason one for anyone doing a search in the same boat and to see how many others have every had this happen to them.
HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 27
From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
I don't get it. First you have no oil pressure then you have oil pressure at the oil filter inlet hole?
Frankly on the engines I rebuild, I have the oil filter off. Then with a squirt can, squirt a quart of oil into the hole that leads back to the oil cooler and some into the feed hole also. Then put the filter on, spark plugs OUT. Then spin the engine til the oil pressure comes up on the WORKING oil guage.
It's a bit of overkill, the squirting of oil, but can't but help and cannot hurt.
OR maybe you meant you had more or less a oooozing of oil at the filter but no real pressure. IF it stays a oozing of oil and no real pressure with the sparkplugs out and the engine spinning pretty good, then maybe the oil pumps *key* has not been installed right and the pump is hardly spinning at all.
Frankly on the engines I rebuild, I have the oil filter off. Then with a squirt can, squirt a quart of oil into the hole that leads back to the oil cooler and some into the feed hole also. Then put the filter on, spark plugs OUT. Then spin the engine til the oil pressure comes up on the WORKING oil guage.
It's a bit of overkill, the squirting of oil, but can't but help and cannot hurt.
OR maybe you meant you had more or less a oooozing of oil at the filter but no real pressure. IF it stays a oozing of oil and no real pressure with the sparkplugs out and the engine spinning pretty good, then maybe the oil pumps *key* has not been installed right and the pump is hardly spinning at all.
Last edited by HAILERS; Nov 26, 2008 at 07:21 AM.
Did you make sure you have the correct o-ring and/or washer beween the front housing and front cover? Also, as silly as it sounds, did you put in the oil pickup before you put in the oil pan? Also, are you reading low oil pressure based on the stock gauge (if it's working)? edit: is the oil pressure sender in and the wire clipped in for the gauge?
I had this same problem on my build as documented here.
Prime the pump with the oil cooler line as described in my thread or like HAILERS suggested and I bet you'll be ok. I'd shoot some 2-stroke in the spark plug holes just to give them a little lube.
If you dont get pressure on the gauge after cranking it, then pull the filter. If its full of oil, then you know the pump is moving oil and it is probably your gauge, sensor or the little capacitor that everyone forgets to put back on.
Good luck. I wasted a week pulling the front cover and pan for nothing.
Prime the pump with the oil cooler line as described in my thread or like HAILERS suggested and I bet you'll be ok. I'd shoot some 2-stroke in the spark plug holes just to give them a little lube.
If you dont get pressure on the gauge after cranking it, then pull the filter. If its full of oil, then you know the pump is moving oil and it is probably your gauge, sensor or the little capacitor that everyone forgets to put back on.
Good luck. I wasted a week pulling the front cover and pan for nothing.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Sounds like the oil pump was assembled dry. You need to assemble the pump with lots of thick lube so it can actually build up some suction and prime.
Do what HAILERS said and you should be fine.
You also won't get a whole heck of a lot of pressure while cranking, but it will come up as soon as the engine starts.
Do what HAILERS said and you should be fine.
You also won't get a whole heck of a lot of pressure while cranking, but it will come up as soon as the engine starts.
HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 27
From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
I just wanted to add, that pulling the sparkplugs will result in much less load on the bearings and the engine will spin faster. Saves wear on the bearings, rotor housings etc when there's no oil pressure to be seen.
Full Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 65
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From: North Carolina
ive been helping turbo-111 through the process, and it has been a bitch. we did put the oil pickup on this time. the first time we put the short block back together we had forgot. but put it back on. We have yet to try taking of the front cover but were pretty sure we had the key in right.
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Thread Starter
10 pounds sounds so nasty
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 399
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From: N.C.
yeah sorry about the post b4 i meant to say no oil pressure and no oil in the filter, my mind got ahead of my hands. but thanks guys for the info its just i had searched for several days on why i wansent pulling any thing. thanks so much for the info and helping me get thro this ! no i did not prime the oil pump i just wasent thinking to do so ive worked very har on this car and just want to see it run for a good while. also... your right i seem to rember the capacitor just hanging there. im goign to try this with my hopes up.. lol all pray please
Thread Starter
10 pounds sounds so nasty
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 399
Likes: 0
From: N.C.
Boys, we dun stuck OIL!
As usual, the ever wise Mr. Cake has done it again!
You're right, the oil pump needs to be filled with oil to work.
With the front cover off I put the front hub back on (or I think bad things will happen with the flat needle bearings
).
I put a quart plastic disposable bowl and filled it with engine oil and put it on my jack which I then raised until the pickup screen and top shield were completely covered.
Then I used my little oiling can (filled with 2-stroke oil to squirt in the spark plugs holes to build compression during start up attempts) and squirted it into the hole with the white teflon ring (it's different on S4s) in the front iron and pumped until oil flowed back out the hole. Then using a 19mm socket I shifted the eccentric shaft back and forth a couple of times then rotated the e-shaft clockwise. The green 2-stroke oil came out followed by gold motor oil! WOOT!
So for anyone in the future who doesn't have oil flowing here's what I'd suggest given my newly-gained hindsight:
1) With the oil pan full, take off the front oil cooler line, preferably from the cooler. Then pour some oil in it; at least a cup or two. Otherwise, any way you can put oil in the output to the oil cooler from the front iron is good. The idea is to get some oil back to the pump. It's a level shot so shouldn't be too hard.
2) rotating the e-shaft back and forth for a bit should work some of the oil into the pump.
3) then just crank the engine clockwise (normal running direction) and it shouldn't take much to get oil flowing. I did it with a 1/2" ratchet and a 19mm socket and I was really impressed with how much oil that thing pumps.
Thanks,
Jim
As usual, the ever wise Mr. Cake has done it again!
You're right, the oil pump needs to be filled with oil to work.With the front cover off I put the front hub back on (or I think bad things will happen with the flat needle bearings
). I put a quart plastic disposable bowl and filled it with engine oil and put it on my jack which I then raised until the pickup screen and top shield were completely covered.
Then I used my little oiling can (filled with 2-stroke oil to squirt in the spark plugs holes to build compression during start up attempts) and squirted it into the hole with the white teflon ring (it's different on S4s) in the front iron and pumped until oil flowed back out the hole. Then using a 19mm socket I shifted the eccentric shaft back and forth a couple of times then rotated the e-shaft clockwise. The green 2-stroke oil came out followed by gold motor oil! WOOT!
So for anyone in the future who doesn't have oil flowing here's what I'd suggest given my newly-gained hindsight:
1) With the oil pan full, take off the front oil cooler line, preferably from the cooler. Then pour some oil in it; at least a cup or two. Otherwise, any way you can put oil in the output to the oil cooler from the front iron is good. The idea is to get some oil back to the pump. It's a level shot so shouldn't be too hard.
2) rotating the e-shaft back and forth for a bit should work some of the oil into the pump.
3) then just crank the engine clockwise (normal running direction) and it shouldn't take much to get oil flowing. I did it with a 1/2" ratchet and a 19mm socket and I was really impressed with how much oil that thing pumps.
Thanks,
Jim
im am going to try your method 2day (turkey day rep
) and see what happens last night was so cold but 2day is suppose to be like 55 here so lets all hope !
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