I recently re-assembled my '87 TII. Essentially a good cleaning, new apex seals, and gaskets/O-rings.

Engine now has ~600 miles and just recently started to apply boost and bring the rpms past 5500. During re-assembly, I increased the tension on the OPM linkage by placing the cotter pin on the 2nd hole up from the lower end of the rod. I did this thinking it should deliver more lubrication. I'm also running 1 oz/gal premix. Oil pressure is good.

Shouldn't I have seen some consumtion by now like about a 1/4 of a quart?

I'm thinking to at least disconnect the 2 lower oil lines to see if oil drains into a container over night.

 

The oil level in my car actually rises overtime due to fuel dilution...

 

yes, they can add fuel faster than they subtract oil. however, checking the metering pump is a good idea, its good to know things like this are actually working.

 

The omp only works when the engine is running,so only residual oil in those lines would ooze out...if any.
You would have to test with the engine on.
If you feel the OMP is not working I would keep premixing as a Precaution until you find out of things are OK.

 

that sucks! let's say it's fuel dilution, is it happening during starting only or from running on fuel mixtures that are a bit rich? can this dilution be verified?

i was hoping not having to check the OPM per the FSM since I don't have extra lines laying around but guess a container will do.

 

Fuel dilution?
The omp injects oil mechanically(s4).It has nothing to do with the amount of fuel,per say.
The Tb opens the linkage moves on the omp and it allows oil to the injectors.
Check the lines to see if there is oil in the OMP lines to the oil injectors.

 

/\ fuel dilution .. as in the oil control rings are recovering wet walled mixture and mixing it with sump oil at a rate faster than the engine consumes oil via OMP

its often in the tune .. its sometimes in the corner seal to side seal clearancing

for the tune you may find it needs idle spark timing and fuel volumes to be adjusted as the motor beds in , frees up and start to pull better idle vacuums

the tune may also need to be adjusted for end of injection angle at lower rpms to allow you to run steady at a lower injection period ( less fuel )
.. in effect timing the injection of lesser amounts of fuel so that it does less quenching of the side plates , stays atomised and does more burning

its a balancing act and its common for the first few 1000's kms to do several oil changes to keep on top of excessive dilution while you bed engine and get the tune right

 

misterstyx69, it should have read 'dilution by fuel'. i understand how it works.

bumpstart, appreciate the explanation.

 

Gotcha..I got "thread stare" from other stuff I had to read..
sorry man.

 

Don't be to sorry Dave you do a great job here I have learned tons of things from both you and bumpstart . you guys are a huge asset to the forum.

 

no hurt feeling here and no apologies needed. appreciate all feedback!

 

check your disptick oil and smell it to see if it smells like raw fuel.

it's also not a bad idea to premix for the first 500 miles while the OMP system primes. not that the breakin procedure will hurt it much without any internal lubrication but once you start boosting you will want to be sure you have some oil getting to the apex and side seals.

 

thx Ben, completely ignored the fact that it may take 500 miles for oil to get to the injectors on a rebuild. The oil has lightly darkened and when rubbed between the fingers feels the same as new oil. If there is fuel in the oil, it's not obvious to these aged nostrils.

 

Since your premixing... With the car running, take a line off the OMP. Put the lever in the "WOT" position and hook a vacuum pump to it and pump. See if oil comes out into the little catch cup. If it does your engine is getting oil. If no oil comes out, your OMP is dead and needs to be replaced.

 

It really doesn't take that long to prime the system. I just rebuilt my pump and installed new lines. To prime it, I let the car idle while holding only the omp lever in the WOT position. I could watch the oil as it flowed through the lines and into the injectors. Took about 2 minutes. A little pre-mixing couldn't hurt to be safe, but after 600 miles it does seem the usage should be measurable.

 

the OMP cannot really die, the jets however could be plugged up inside the pump. the small pinhole that feeds oil to the OMP could also be plugged up if you used silicone to seal the front cover to the front iron.