Rye_Takahasi

so i've got an 89 gxl that i put an s4 keg in it.. all the s5 electronics.. and changed to a manual from automatic. pretty much stock except for removed the rats nest and smog because they didn't work.. and the 5th and 6th ports are open always.

I had an oil that i thought was just the front of my pan .. long story short.. swapped oil pans. and had to reseal my front plate. no more oil leak. during this i messed up my timing. i finally got my timing set correctly.

!! PROBLEM PART !!
Here's were the problem comes in, it will cold start no problem fires right up and runs and idles. can drive just fine. no loss of power through out RPMs. However once warmed up and i shut it off, I cannot get it to start back up on its own. I've been able to use a jump start to crank it till it fires.. or even just a small roll will usually start it up and it runs fine. I have figured out that on low RPMs.. under 900 apparently is only running on one plug (pulled wires from coils at low idle and nothing happens till L2 and car died. higher rpms you can hear the difference) I have no dead spots on compression and it doesn't seem weaker for compression. but i cannot figure out why it will not start once warmed up.

anyone have any suggestions? it ran fine and started fine before i messed with my front plate.

mazdamattk

Check this out. https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-vF...01VE9taFE/edit
Found a manual that actually lists that as a problem. I am trying to figure it out right now.
Look at page 41

mazdamattk

After reading everything, I would start with the crank angle sensor.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-vF...Z0Z01FS1U/edit
Pins 3h 3g 3e are the signal from the crank angle to the ECU.
Pin 1J is the select signal for the two trailing coils. But everything points back the crank angle sensor. The first link tells you how to test it. Good luck, let me know what happens.

Rye_Takahasi

so i checked my CAS resistance.. because i know 2 of my engine codes are 2 and 3. which are crank NE sensor and crank G sensor. cold before starting. resistance is 168 and after warming up and driving around and it wont' start.. resistance is 192. still within spec .. but not sure if thats good or bad that it changes so much in 20 min.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Did you check the resistance at the CAS pigtail or at the ECU?

Rye_Takahasi

i checked at the pigtail. tomorrow i will check at the ecu if i get a chance.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Remember to disconnect the plug from the ECU first.

sbrmechanic

wait wait wait why the hell did you change it from a manual to an automatic?

Rye_Takahasi

wow .. sorry mistype on my end.. automatic to manual. i'll need to edit that haha

Rye_Takahasi

so i checked on the ECU.. but with it unplugged i get no readout at all. i checked it plugged in.. and with it runing and the resistance is a lot lower. way below spec. wasn't able to check at higher rpm tho just low idle. waiting on second set of hands to help check at higher rpm

satch

iTrader: (1)

You're supposed to be taking an ohm reading and not a volt reading for there are essentially no volts on those wires but they do is omh out to a certain range that should equal what you get at the pigtail reading which is between 110 to 210 ohms.

Rye_Takahasi

yes. that's what i checked. the resistance in ohms.. at the pigtail i get bout 165 ohms. straight off the CAS. However at the ECU plug i do not get a read out of anything. now if i hook one lead to a ground and the other lead to each wire on the plug.. i get a readout of ohms. plug 3H which is CAS G- is reading at 19 ohms. while 3E (CAS Ne) and 3G (CAS G+) read 150-160 ohms. thats just with key on. running.. its completely opposite.. wish makes me even more confused. or maybe i'm testing it wrong. but i am checking OHM not volts.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You don't read ohms w/the key to on as this is a no no. The plug at the ECU is to be disconnected. On the S5 you take the ohm reading from the disconnected ECU plug at pins 3G and 3H and then at 3E and 3H again so these are the White wire and Red wire paired together and then the Blue wire and the Red wire.

Rye_Takahasi

Satch, i did as you said.. 3G and 3H and then 3E and 3H unplugged from ecu.. had to back probe to get a reading but at the plug when cold 165 ohms. after driving for 10 min and getting it warmed up turned it off... won't start.. pulled the plug checked same wires... 186 ohms still within spec. so i'm guessing something else is causing it to not fire properly at lower RPMs or when starting.