2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
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Old 07-17-07, 08:27 AM
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Got a second gen rx7 turbo that doesn't want to start.
I don't have much experience with rotatry's but i guess the first steps are to check:

a) compression.can i use normal compression tester? what should it read?
b) Spark
c) Fuel. How can i tell it's getting the right amount of fuel, if any, into the chamber?

I'm told the engine is a replacement with approx 20,000 miles.

Please help!!!
Old 07-17-07, 08:32 AM
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Check all the connections, the spark plugs, the battery terminals and the crank angle sensor. I had this problem a while back
Old 07-17-07, 08:33 AM
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You should search as well as check the FAQ. All of your concerns are quite common and have undoubtedly been covered many times.
Old 07-17-07, 09:50 AM
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Check compression, use a regular compression tester while holding the release. this will allow you to (hopefully) see three even bounces as the engine spins. Minimum is 85 PSI. Happens very quick....maybe have a buddy with a camera on the gauge...follow the FSM for the whole procedure. If compression is fine, check for spark (easy - pull each boot on the plug and see if you get a shock). Check fuel supply by jumpering the yellow test connector (search advanced with my name and fuel check connector) - you should hear the fuel pump whizzing. To make sure fuel is actually getting into the engine, check plugs for fuel in both rotors. There's also the chance the car is severely flooded, which can also causes low compression. FSM, see below...

http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/S...cal_Schematics
Old 07-17-07, 10:02 AM
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^^^ his method for compression test isn't exactly right. get a Haynes manual, it will help immensely if you use it. to check compression you basically take a minimum of four readings, one set of two tests for each rotors = 4 checks, and you can redo any of those if you like. it's pretty easy, but nearly impossible without two people, you need a person to turn the motor over with the ignition and then a person manning the gauge. you also only need to remove both EGI fuses in the engine bay, the Haynes manual tells you to take off more, but I and others have done it with only those fuses removed and it works beautifully without any problems.
Old 07-17-07, 10:12 AM
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Thanks for the advice guys,
I'll let you know how i get on!
Old 07-17-07, 10:26 AM
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People, read the whole posts please!

Originally Posted by SpeedOfLife
^^^ his method for compression test isn't exactly right. ...
****, what is it with people not reading whole posts. Everyone chimes in without reading them completely.

It's not only you...an example is a couple of guys telling someone they shouldn't work on the car if he doesn't know how to hook up a ******* battery (the OM was actually enquiring about starter connections), and another couple talking about fuel filter location (OM was asking about fuel pump connector).

I'm in ranting mode now...

Notice I referred the OM to the FSM and even provided a link...if you read this far into my post. Thank you for letting me vent. I know a lot of people here know their ****, but are way too quick on the trigger. It was a better reply than your original one (essentially - go search, although I can't argue with that advice).
Old 07-17-07, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by pfsantos
Notice I referred the OM to the FSM and even provided a link...if you read this far into my post.
I admit it, I scanned your post, sorry.

Basically, bonobo, you've got a good start by knowing some of the right question to ask. The next step is to find your answers. Most if not all the things you will ask in the first year of ownership have been covered before, so everyone appreciates it when you at least try the search function to find what you need before starting new threads.

Welcome to the club
Old 08-08-07, 03:30 PM
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I know it's been a while but i had to go to israel on business.

OK, so here's where i'm at!
She's got good compression, and spark,
also got wet plugs and stinks of fuel,
so i tried unflooding.

It's tried to fire here and there, but still won't start!!

one thing i did notice, is all the plugs are BUR9EQ, there aren't different ones for the leadings.

Will this cause it not to start???

Any suggestions are very welcome.
Old 08-08-07, 04:09 PM
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There are different plugs for leading and trailing.

They should be labeled with a T and L.

Try cleaning the plugs, if its flooded big time you may need to push start it.
Old 08-15-07, 06:47 AM
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It's not putting out any error codes so i'm not sure what else to try?
Help!!
Old 08-15-07, 09:52 AM
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know how u feel bonobo, had same thing happen to me once with my first modified 86 fc, ended up been mega flooded, disabled fuel pump & ignition, pulled all plugs out, wound engine over with W.O.T.(wide open throttle) for about 10 secs, left it sit for a day with plugs left out to let all possible remaining fuel evaporate, fitted some new (correct) spark plugs , i used NGK BUR7EQ L & BUR9EQ T reconnected fuel & ignition & it started... they can be abit touchy on start up i've found even my INFINI will flood if i don't hold my tongue wright. good luk bud
Old 08-15-07, 10:32 AM
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I'm getting desparate now, i bought it as a non runner and i'm wondering if maybe the previous owner put diesel in it?

Might as well drain it and fill up with some fresh!!

Gotta be worth a try????
Old 08-18-07, 01:17 PM
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SUCCESS!!

She started today, i took the plugs out, put the battery on charge, and left it overnight, put a little oil in the lower plug holes this morning, plugs in, turned it over, and she started.

Lots of smoke for a while, but runs pretty smooth.

Only thing is the revs stay at about 2800 rpm even after about 5 minutes or so?
Old 08-19-07, 09:14 AM
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Previous owner could have started pulling stuff apart & screwing around with throttle stop screws or idle valve screws, or maybe an inlet air or vacume leak, check all air inlet hose plumbing connections & sometimes you can hear post throttle body vacume leaks while engines running. could be any number of things
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