Ok i've dabbled in the world of rotaries before... but not hands on... thanks to the internet... I'm on the verge of buying a 1989 RX-7 turbo for $1000. What i would like to know is what to watch out for in a FC turbo for 1g and how to fix the rotary's urge to go boom... I've heard of a thing called 3mm apex seals... i don't know how to apply them or how apex seals work...

yes, i'm new the world and i want to learn... Can we please keep in mind i'm 17? i can only afford so much. Thank you...

P.S. i've never heard the sound of an uncorked rotary...
i hope to hear it soon... and what should i expect to hear? does it thump? does it scream? ect

thanks...

 

Sounds like a deal if its in decent shape. I've heard of people paying $2000 or more for Turbos that dont even run. If the car is in ok shape, its a great deal no matter how the car runs...
Depending on the mileage and maintenance, you may need to get the engine rebuilt. I would definitely recommend getting a compression test done on the engine, any competent rotary shop can do it. Instead of spelling everything out, here's a good link with info on how to buy an FC

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/h2b.html

I would also recommend searching this forum for any additional questions or info you may need. Good luck.

 

If you are 17, and just learning how to drive, this car might be too fast for you. It might be a good deal, but it really wont be when you risk killing yourself.
If you are low on funds, I wouldnt touch a 1000 FC- especially if you lack the knowledge and experience to diagnose potentially expensive problems.
well, good luck anyways-
Shin

 

3mm apex seals require a complete teardown of the engine, and then a machining of each apex to accept a 3mm seal. Just stick with a standard 2mm seal, when you get a rebuild. There are 2mm seals now strong enough to withstand pretty much anything you can throw at them. As long as you maintain your engine, your engine should last quite a while.

 

Pay less now, pay more later

 

But what about detonation... i thought rotaries were prone to blow? or was that problem only serious in FD3S bodies because of the cooling system in the 3rd gens?

 

Hah....stock t2's just might make it into the 14's....nothing I'd call fast.

If this is going to be your only mode of transportation I'd think otherwise. If you have another car you can drive around though this would be a great chance to get some hands on experience building up your own car.

If you do get the car first get a compression check and we'll go from there. Take your time and start reading through the 2nd gen archives here, over on nopistons, and teamfc3s

 

^

 

bump

 

not to be abnoxious... but c'mon... i know you guys know about this stuff... help a brudda out...

 

i think you should start out with an n/a get to know the rotary, you should be able to work on it yourself and know what everything in the engine bay does... THEN and only then should you get get a turbo fc...your still learning how to drive at 17, dont risk the car and your life...

this is what i did and im glad i did it, its much easier to make the transition then to jump right in and be above your head in problems. and i gurantee you will have many problems with a $1000 T2.

 

ok, but i have faith in my common sense and responsibility... i ain't no ricer...

 

Exactly. You get what you paided for.

For 1k I'd stay away from it because awhile from now your going to be posting about your engine .

 

im not trying to call you a ricer (yet), but its honestly what i think you should do, you say your on a budget and cant afford too much right? well just getting into rotaries alone your going to have to fork out cash when you least expect it... a TII would only add to that list of problems. a n/a FC is less of a hassle and less to worry about.

we're trying to help you, but if you get that TII i'd say your going to have to put up at least 2-3 grand in repairs right away because you obviously dont know how to fix it if and when its broken.

 

my 10AE was my first real car, I got it when I was just barely 17... I didn't kill myself...

if it's a 1989 and you are paying $1000 and it RUNS, don't worry about the rest. Worst case scenerio is it dies and you resell it for $1000, because that's what people will pay for an s5 TII shell... or part it out, or whatever..

hell, if you decide you don't like it put it up forsale here for $2500 and you'll sell it within a week.



BUY THE CAR


Don't worry about the engine, if it's in good running condition today, why will it die tomorrow?

 

most important thing is, the frame as long as it's straight and given that you don't bend it.