As most know, have had TPS issues, idles problems, and check engine light on. Well, member here had a TPS, he sent it, paid for it, and now idle at 750 nuts, steady. 90 vert n/a, yesterday AM removed throttle body to put in new TPS, easier that way, one screw holding TPS under was a bitch, so removed the TB. I had never up close seen the fast idle cam, adjusting screw, fast idle screw or the mark on cam roller. WHY? They are underneath the Thermowax, against the firewall, and had no way of getting to, or adjusting, until now.

First thing before I attempted anything, I cleaned the throttle body and plates, no real carbon build up, but cleaned in and out nonetheless. One thing to mention, I removed the hood for easy access. One person job, lightweight hood. Next, reading the FSM, and a million threads on idle, all of these adjustments, (idle cam, cam screw, fast idle screw, etc.) say to do while engine is warm. Well , it was warm while I was doing this, but not attached. I took the chance, lined up cam roller markings, set the throttle plates, all like the manual said to do, but while it was in hand.

OK, now time to put back in and see what happens. The 25 steps from car to front door of apt. is the distance it took me to loose a 3 inch Y piece of vaccuum hose and Y , and spent 1 hour looking for it. Found it on the frame, hidden so nicely. Ok, all back together , and the test begins. Won't start. Having problems with starter lately, so I hammer the starter, and fire her up. Runs like crap, YES, TPS is good, and adjustments begin. Warm her up, shut her off, and begin.

Initial set test connector grounded, checked TPS, with multimeter. .074, adjust to 1.00, and check the high range, slowly to WOT, no jumps or large spikes, WOT 4.88. Withing specs. Yes, start her up. Timing a noticeable amount retarted, but I'm taking her for a spin to warm all the way.

Get back, shut her down, and start with TPS again. Dropped to .97, so I bring it back to 1.0, and WOT still at 4.88. Start her up, check timing, and it is retarted , so I loosen up CAS nut, bring to marks, both # 1's wires on Leading and Trailing Coils, and let her idle.

Idle at 1400. OK, take the cap off idle set on TB, and adjust it back to somewhere around 900, and leave it. Drive around the block a couple times, and come back. Shut her down, check TPS , perfect. Start her up, check timing, perfect, idles at 950 now. So I adjust the the little screw on the throttle body by the TPS, to 750 , and take her on the freeway.

What a dream. Took her home, checked everything again, and all perfect. Put the hood on, gave her a bath, and went on

In 3 days, she got new tires, new TPS, new Starter yesterday, and check engine light is gone. I love you guys for all the advice and guidance, and to Mark, you da man for the TPS.

Someone sell me another vert, the one I just described is my son's. Oh well, I wouldn't let him sell her for 10 grand now.

THANKS TO ALL THAT HELPED

PEACE THE DOG, A HAPPY ONE RUF RUF RUF RUF RUF

 

this is a good post, i need to do this to my vert but i am lazy hehehe and it sounds somewhat confusing.

 

Good Job!

Glad to see you back in the saddle.

 

wow... i am sleepy and i couldnt understand a thing that happened other than you change youre tps an it makes teh car run better,

 

nice work did you need to mess with all the other screws on the throttle body or not did cleaning your throttle body make any improvement with how it runs

 

Here's a question on the subject of TPS...I just checked mine and it goes to 4.13 but the "sweep" of the TPS is maxed out way before the throttle is fully open. Is that normal for an S4?

 

Im glad you got the car all back to normal.

But what other problems besides idle did you have? I think i may have a possible TPS problem but im not totally sure. I know i have to measure volts and ill get to that but i wanted to make sure its the TPS.

 

Yes.