2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 04:27 PM
  #26  
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Nice build.. Its good to see lots of rotary powered vehicles, specifically FCs coming together this year.. Sevenstock should be pretty good this year, granted they have it again.
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 05:50 PM
  #27  
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Nice to see another FC owner doing things correctly..
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 07:51 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 1Revvin7
I like men.
WTF? Elliot... I dunno if you can live in the house anymore... lol

Looks good mang! I envy the IC, but someday *looks up towards the sky teary eyed* i may have one...Maybe I missed it, whos making the manifold? Should have that 1revvin dood make one for ya...I'm pretty damn happy with mine!
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 08:11 PM
  #29  
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/\ /\ /\ LOLOLOL!!!
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 09:00 PM
  #30  
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You'll hate that clutch setup though if this is going to be a street driven car. I had the 6-puck on my T2 and it sucked for street. Would make all kinds of noise while I was trying to slip it(which it isn't designed for really) and it was difficult to slip since it's really a "on/off" type of setup. Just a FYI, but other then that your build looks good!
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 09:24 AM
  #31  
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Thanks for all your kind words. Next week should be a good progress week for the motor. Hopefully all of the rotating mass will be getting balanced. The part work should be getting finished up as well. As far as the manifold I am not sure who is building it. Glenn@ AZRR has a fabricator that does a lot of work for him so that might be it?

FrankV702 - I hope that sevenstock is held this year too. I have been looking forward to the opportunity to go for several years now. I am finally close enough to make the drive and I am redy to be swallowed in a sea of ratary power.

TrboRty - I wanted the clmping force that this clutch offers. I am going to be daily driving this car and it will see a lot of 11 second passes down the 1/4. It may even get me into the high 10 second range. This motor is going to have plenty of power/tourqe to lay waste to many other style of clutch disks. I felt that this one was my best bet for the application.


Nolan
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 10:23 AM
  #32  
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Nolan,

If you move to a decent clutch( something not off the shelf) you won't have to sacrifice streetability to hold power..

P.S. Brandon I hated your clutch...
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 11:06 AM
  #33  
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Yea Elliot knows all about how that clutch feels and drives...lol....my car too was street driven and also was on the strip but it was horrible for a daily driven car, I am now switching to a street/stip organic disc and ditching the 6-puck....
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 01:04 PM
  #34  
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I drive my 4-puck unsprung on the street all the time, and its EASY to drive!
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 02:02 PM
  #35  
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I really do like men...
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 02:58 PM
  #36  
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Is all this really necessary?
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 04:14 PM
  #37  
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I appreciate the input, but This is what I have decided to run in my car. It seems to me that your perception of streetable is different than mine. That is what makes us individual.

Nolan
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 04:22 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 1Revvin7
I really do like men...
*******
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 08:59 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by 1Revvin7
I really do like men...

I am sorry to hear that Elliot.
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 10:32 PM
  #40  
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I relocated the battery to the drivers side bin last weekend. I used 2gauge cable for the main power feed and ran it to the starter. The power supply for the main fuse block is 10gauge wire. As of right now the Optima 24/37 is just held down, but I am having a custom aluminum box built for it. I ran the wiring out of the bottom of the bin, above the rear subframe, and through the frame rail up to the starter and the engine bay. I soldered all of the joints and then sealed the connections with 3M electrical coating to seal them from the elements. Here are a few pics.



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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 11:09 PM
  #41  
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ok, so i need to ask a stupid question here, since i dont really know for sure.
in those pics of the batt. box, is the neg. just going straight to the metal on the car?
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 11:20 PM
  #42  
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Yes, I sanded the paint off and bolted the ground wire to the body.

P.S. There is no such thing as a stupid question only stupid answers.
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 12:37 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 1Revvin7
I really do like men...
Bahaha! Did Nick get you?

Yeah, anything unsprung and puck style...sucks the big..well you know (or at least 1revvin does) what im sayin. Elliot has teh hookup on clutches I believe...
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 06:35 PM
  #44  
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There doesn't appear to be a breaker or fuse on that battery relocation.
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 07:36 PM
  #45  
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Fixed

Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
There doesn't appear to be a breaker or fuse on that battery relocation and I heavily recommend that you use one
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 08:12 PM
  #46  
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How much did that throttle cable cost new from mazda?
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 08:21 PM
  #47  
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I got a throttle cable from Atkins, unused in the packaging, for like $75.00 USD

Anyway, this project is looking great!
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 07:51 PM
  #48  
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I ordered the cable from www.mazdatrix.com and I think it was $55 for the part.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 07:55 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
There doesn't appear to be a breaker or fuse on that battery relocation.

No, I do not have one on it right now. Do you have a good source for a 150-200 amp breaker? I have relocated 4 batteries in other cars and never ran a breaker before. I drove one of them for 6 years with no issues to at all. I am considering running one due to the fact that this car will be daily driven.

Nolan
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 08:08 PM
  #50  
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Here is the one I bought a couple nights ago.
http://cgi.ebay.com/CIRCUIT-BREAKER-...QQcmdZViewItem
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