HAILERS

First thing I want to say is I'm gonna buy new springs to go with my new Tokico shock struts. But........after puting on the new struts and driving for a week, they don't feel just right. Can't place my finger on just what. Nearest I can come is to say it feels like I'm riding on some JELLO. I searched Gibsons fc3s site and found an article that recommended changing shocks and springs at the same time because if just the struts are replaced the car will bounce. Any real knowledgeable shock person out there? Does Jello and bounce go together? I've changed shocks on the n/a a couple years ago and did not experience this *feel*. Seems to corner good when pressed hard. Jello is most noticed driving down the freeway and hiting mild dips and irregular surface. Oh yes, this salvage vehicle had dead shocks when I removed them. I mean puch down on the piston rod and it stayed down. All four. I suspect the springs have been taking a beating and are ruined. Rear tires were worn on the inside thread. Yeah. Jello.

SpeedRacer

So jello huh?

I did the opposite of you, and replaced springs(375/325lbs) when I put on my GC coilover kit. I have stock struts that are about shot. I get a sort *TIGHT* jello feel. Corners GREAT, zero body roll...but when hauling *** down a straightaway tiny inconsistencies in the road make the car bounce up and down real quick...at 100+ a small bump will make me possibly get airborne for a split second. The springs are just too stiff for the dampeners to to dampen the effect of them. I'd guess you'd get similar results with the opposite done to your car. Your struts are bossing around the springs, so the car doesn't reset quickly after the suspension droops and then rebounds.

HAILERS

Speedracer, I think you articulated what my car is experiencing better than my description. When I ordered the Eibach springs yesterday I was jabbering with the order taker, and he said, in his personal opinion the Tokico shocks I have were a little too stiff in his opinion with his experience with them. I'm hoping that the new springs will correct things. Ordered the camber adjuster with them. Anyway, thanks, good to know that someone else has experienced a similar feel. Gives one hope.

SpeedRacer

Yeah, I'm pretty damn confident you will be happy with new springs. What did you get BTW? Linear, progressive? The camber adjuster won't do anything to solve your problem, but its always good to have anyway, especially when you work on your suspension, cause it tends to knock stuff out of alignment, especially when you lower it 2" like me.

HAILERS

The Eibach's on this page http://www.mazdatrix.com/h4586-92.htm progressive if you look at the chart on the page. At leasts I think so. Dumb as dirt on shocks and springs. I got the camber adjuster because these springs lower the car 3/4 inch and its said that will cause........negative camber???? Any way the bottom of the tire goes outboard more than normal.

SpeedRacer

Yeah, negative camber is good to point, depending on your application. Most stock cars have a tiny bit of negative camber dialed in from the factory, like maybe 1/2 a degree. The more you lower your car the more you are changing the geometry of the suspension, the way it was designed from the factory. It will cause negative camber. Much more so in the back then in the front. Negative camber will cause the inside edges of your tires to wear more quickly. Although having negative camber when autocrossing, or road racing can really improve the handling and feel of your car. When I finally get my camber plates on, I will probably be running anywhere from -1.5 to -2 degrees of camber. On the street, I think like -.5 degrees is pretty good. Are you getting front and rear camber adjusters?

HAILERS

Speedracer.....Did I buy the front and rear camber adjusters? What part of my above post that said *dumb as dirt on suspension* did you not understand? I crawled up in a fetal position and turned the lites out when I saw that question. Of course not. Just bought the rear adjuster. Oh well. I like getting packages from UPS, so I'll pony up some money and order for the front end. Thanks for the heads up.

SpeedRacer

hehehe....sorry man, didn't mean to scare you. Don't just go out and buy front camber/caster plates man...they are pretty spendy, probably $250-300 for the set. You probably don't need them. As I stated before, the rears go way negative when you put on new springs, but the fronts not so bad. The rears aren't very adjustable stock, so even if you took your car to an alignment shop they wouldn't be able to get the rear camber set back to within specs. Thats what the rear-camber link is for, so its more adjustable. It can also be used to dial in a little more negative camber, for track driving and spirited driving. The fronts don't get affected as much as the rears. If you just take your car in to an alignment shop, they should probably be able to get your alignment to within specs, and you won't have to spend the extra money on front camber/caster plates. Unless you want them so you can adjust your suspension based on what type of driving you do, or track events, etc...Anyways, hope this helps.