new rebuild not starting
12-18-05, 01:23 AM
#1
new rebuild not starting
ok, so i've finished installing my engine today, everything hooked up but will not start. it will fire while cranking, but no often engouh to run. the compression seems good. a couple of times it did fire up and rev to about 3k or so rpm then died. i'm pretty sure its getting enough fuel because it floods while cranking. i alligned the yellow dot on the pully with the timing mark and the dot on the CAS gear with the mark on that. could this be an ignition timing problem? or a vaccume problem? there is ONE electrical connection that i can't seem t find a place to plug in, it is black, circular, and has one prong, it is located at the end of the harness with the bundle of wires that goes onder the emmisions controll web. anyway i'll mess with it more in the morning but any and all sugesstions would be exellent
thanks
thanks
12-18-05, 01:42 AM
#2
mattg prob nt coming back
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if its an s4 it might be your knock sensor. but yeah im in the same boat
i started my car already and let it idel for like 30 mins, next day cant get it started at all
i started my car already and let it idel for like 30 mins, next day cant get it started at all
12-18-05, 01:46 AM
#3
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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Originally Posted by philiptompkins
ok, so i've finished installing my engine today, everything hooked up but will not start. it will fire while cranking, but no often engouh to run. the compression seems good. a couple of times it did fire up and rev to about 3k or so rpm then died. i'm pretty sure its getting enough fuel because it floods while cranking. i alligned the yellow dot on the pully with the timing mark and the dot on the CAS gear with the mark on that. could this be an ignition timing problem? or a vaccume problem? there is ONE electrical connection that i can't seem t find a place to plug in, it is black, circular, and has one prong, it is located at the end of the harness with the bundle of wires that goes onder the emmisions controll web. anyway i'll mess with it more in the morning but any and all sugesstions would be exellent
thanks
thanks
Kill the fuel while cranking. make sure the plug wires are on right. and make sure the fuel lines are on the right way.. " dont ask" most of all the air intake pieces all needx to be on and maf needs to be pluged in
just throwign things at ya.. im sure you already know.
12-18-05, 01:58 AM
#4
Originally Posted by FC/DC
Kill the fuel while cranking. make sure the plug wires are on right. and make sure the fuel lines are on the right way.. " dont ask" most of all the air intake pieces all needx to be on and maf needs to be pluged in
just throwign things at ya.. im sure you already know.
just throwign things at ya.. im sure you already know.
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12-18-05, 01:22 PM
#9
ok, so i got it started but it is VERY diffucult to get it started since it only seems to fire occasonally. but when it does start it will stay running as long as i keep it above 1500rpm. it spudders a little around 2k and runs smoothly after 3k, this sounds like a vaccume issue.... does anyone have any suggstions as to what i should look for next? is this normal for a newly rebuilt motor?
12-18-05, 02:17 PM
#10
you could probably have a vacume problem..... but also... did you use new or used housings??? fresh rebuilds with used housings wont want to idle at all at the start. longer you keep it running the more it will break in and start slowing running better and better.
let it run for like an hr or so... watch all your gauges, oil, temp ect... just sit int he car listen to music or somthing.... then it might get a bit better to where u might be able to drive it or somthing
let it run for like an hr or so... watch all your gauges, oil, temp ect... just sit int he car listen to music or somthing.... then it might get a bit better to where u might be able to drive it or somthing
12-18-05, 02:27 PM
#11
southern style
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did you set your TPS? and when you timed it did you put a jumper wire in your initial set coupler? whenever you set TPS, idle speed, mixture, and timing you have to put a jumper wire in the "initial set coupler" or the computer will not read your changes, the sensors/motor will read the changes but not the computer. i know this is true for an s4 but im not sure about an s5... should be the same tho. does it sometimes "miss" or "pop" from the exhuast? it might be hard to tell if you have stock or quiet exhuast
12-18-05, 02:27 PM
#12
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Your car sounds like a non turbo. There's no clue anywhere as to what it is.
It could be a couple of things. Like maybe the brake booster line isn[t connected to the manifold?
IF not that and you can see all the hose are connected up, then I'd guess you've a problem with the fuel injector lower grommets. If they are old and hard as a rock, they don't seal very well ans are the equiv of a large air leak. OR, one of them might have fallen off when you put the primary injectors in the housing. Yes, an Air leak.
It could be a couple of things. Like maybe the brake booster line isn[t connected to the manifold?
IF not that and you can see all the hose are connected up, then I'd guess you've a problem with the fuel injector lower grommets. If they are old and hard as a rock, they don't seal very well ans are the equiv of a large air leak. OR, one of them might have fallen off when you put the primary injectors in the housing. Yes, an Air leak.
12-18-05, 02:46 PM
#13
ok, i check all hoses, and the lower gromets were on the lower fuel ingectors for shure, they wer kind of stiff though. also YES, i can hear missing and popping from the exauhst and it smokes a whole lot (unburnet gas?) and i could not really set the ignition timing as i could not get the car to idle but i did take the CAS (crank angle sensor) out and match it up with its mark and the yellow dot on the pully with the stick. and yes, its a non turbo. also where does the brake booster connect? is that the lage tube the goes from the side if the UIM to the top of the black cylender below it?
12-18-05, 02:47 PM
#14
Originally Posted by kompressorlogic
you could probably have a vacume problem..... but also... did you use new or used housings??? fresh rebuilds with used housings wont want to idle at all at the start. longer you keep it running the more it will break in and start slowing running better and better.
let it run for like an hr or so... watch all your gauges, oil, temp ect... just sit int he car listen to music or somthing.... then it might get a bit better to where u might be able to drive it or somthing
let it run for like an hr or so... watch all your gauges, oil, temp ect... just sit int he car listen to music or somthing.... then it might get a bit better to where u might be able to drive it or somthing
12-18-05, 03:34 PM
#15
Passing life by
The timing is off its flooding and you prolly have a vac leak somewhere.
Use a coolant compression tester to verify the coolant seals were installed properly and sealing. BTW there is no MAF on any FC.
If you ran it for 10min and shut it off its flooded.
Use a coolant compression tester to verify the coolant seals were installed properly and sealing. BTW there is no MAF on any FC.
If you ran it for 10min and shut it off its flooded.
12-18-05, 04:52 PM
#17
Originally Posted by iceblue
The timing is off its flooding and you prolly have a vac leak somewhere.
Use a coolant compression tester to verify the coolant seals were installed properly and sealing. BTW there is no MAF on any FC.
If you ran it for 10min and shut it off its flooded.
Use a coolant compression tester to verify the coolant seals were installed properly and sealing. BTW there is no MAF on any FC.
If you ran it for 10min and shut it off its flooded.
timing may be off but not definitely, try turning the CAS with the engine running to see if it smooths out indicating the CAS is one tooth off.
there is a MAF on every FC, well, with the exception of EMS managed FCs.
why would it be flooded after 10 minutes? i have restarted many a rebuild after 1 minute of idling and they restarted just fine, idled fine and all around ran fine with all used components except springs and seals.
try holding the throttle wide open during cranking to assist in building compression to get the engine started, this should reduce the likelihood of constant flooding but it does sound like you have a rather large vacuum leak somewhere.
12-18-05, 05:03 PM
#18
Passing life by
Originally Posted by Karack
there's a few things i want to correct here:
timing may be off but not definitely, try turning the CAS with the engine running to see if it smooths out indicating the CAS is one tooth off.
timing may be off but not definitely, try turning the CAS with the engine running to see if it smooths out indicating the CAS is one tooth off.
I should rephrase that it is near impossible and I have never seen or succeeded in stabbing a CAS and the timing being on. Always required adjusting.
Originally Posted by Karack
there is a MAF on every FC, well, with the exception of EMS managed FCs.
.
.
12-18-05, 05:04 PM
#19
there goes iceblue pretending to know what he is talking about again...
a coolant compression tester? wtf man... i think he can do a regular engine compression test to verify that he has enough compression to start the engine, THEN worry about coolant seals. he could check these seals by leaving the coolant cap off when he gets the car started making sure that there arent lots of bubbles or pressure shooting the coolant out...
and way to show off your knowledge with the "THERE IS NO MAF ON ANY FC" (maybe he meant to type AFM?) come on dude.
phillip:
1. do a compression test to verify you have enough compression to get the engine started. if you dont, put some motor oil (or maybe something thinner like MMO or tcw3 2cycle premix) into the spark plug holes to raise the compression. if that doesnt work, try pullstarting the car... you can make alot more compression when you're pulling the car around at 2000rpms than you can cranking it at 300rpms. i'm guessing it has enough compression to get it started since you said it once started and died...
2. check the AFM and make sure its plugged in. you can run a car without the AFM but it will run like total dogshit. a fresh rebuild probably wont even run without the AFM (would probably crank up then just die), so i'd check that first.
3. dont worry about the coolant seals. unless you have abnormal pressure in the coolant system (which can be checked easily once the car is running) they are probably fine.
4. the timing is probably fine.
a coolant compression tester? wtf man... i think he can do a regular engine compression test to verify that he has enough compression to start the engine, THEN worry about coolant seals. he could check these seals by leaving the coolant cap off when he gets the car started making sure that there arent lots of bubbles or pressure shooting the coolant out...
and way to show off your knowledge with the "THERE IS NO MAF ON ANY FC" (maybe he meant to type AFM?) come on dude.
phillip:
1. do a compression test to verify you have enough compression to get the engine started. if you dont, put some motor oil (or maybe something thinner like MMO or tcw3 2cycle premix) into the spark plug holes to raise the compression. if that doesnt work, try pullstarting the car... you can make alot more compression when you're pulling the car around at 2000rpms than you can cranking it at 300rpms. i'm guessing it has enough compression to get it started since you said it once started and died...
2. check the AFM and make sure its plugged in. you can run a car without the AFM but it will run like total dogshit. a fresh rebuild probably wont even run without the AFM (would probably crank up then just die), so i'd check that first.
3. dont worry about the coolant seals. unless you have abnormal pressure in the coolant system (which can be checked easily once the car is running) they are probably fine.
4. the timing is probably fine.
Last edited by jacobcartmill; 12-18-05 at 05:08 PM.
12-18-05, 05:06 PM
#20
come watch me stab a CAS sometime, 3 out of 4 times it is dead nuts on even after a complete overhaul. all it takes is lining up the witness marks on the CAS with the retaining nut and knowing how to align the gears properly.
if you want to be technical, of course it is off but how much is the question. the timing cannot be set until the main problem is found and resolved.
you're right about the MAF, i always get the terms mixed up switching from american cars during the day to rotaries in the evening....
if you want to be technical, of course it is off but how much is the question. the timing cannot be set until the main problem is found and resolved.
you're right about the MAF, i always get the terms mixed up switching from american cars during the day to rotaries in the evening....
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 12-18-05 at 05:11 PM.
12-18-05, 05:10 PM
#21
Originally Posted by Karack
come watch me stab a CAS sometime, 3 out of 4 times it is dead nuts on even after a complete overhaul. all it takes is lining up the witness marks on the CAS with the retaining nut and knowing how to align the gears properly.
if you want to be technical, of course it is off but how much is the question. the timing cannot be set until the main problem is found and resolved.
if you want to be technical, of course it is off but how much is the question. the timing cannot be set until the main problem is found and resolved.
exactly... its not too hard to stab a CAS. maybe iceblue has a problem doing it?
12-18-05, 05:16 PM
#22
Passing life by
Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
there goes iceblue pretending to know what he is talking about again...
a coolant compression tester? wtf man... i think he can do a regular engine compression test to verify that he has enough compression to start the engine, THEN worry about coolant seals. he could check these seals by leaving the coolant cap off when he gets the car started making sure that there arent lots of bubbles or pressure shooting the coolant out...
and way to show off your knowledge with the "THERE IS NO MAF ON ANY FC" (maybe he meant to type AFM?) come on dude.
phillip:
1. do a compression test to verify you have enough compression to get the engine started. if you dont, put some motor oil (or maybe something thinner like MMO or tcw3 2cycle premix) into the spark plug holes to raise the compression. if that doesnt work, try pullstarting the car... you can make alot more compression when you're pulling the car around at 2000rpms than you can cranking it at 300rpms. i'm guessing it has enough compression to get it started since you said it once started and died...
2. check the AFM and make sure its plugged in. you can run a car without the AFM but it will run like total dogshit. a fresh rebuild probably wont even run without the AFM (would probably crank up then just die), so i'd check that first.
3. dont worry about the coolant seals. unless you have abnormal pressure in the coolant system (which can be checked easily once the car is running) they are probably fine.
4. the timing is probably fine.
a coolant compression tester? wtf man... i think he can do a regular engine compression test to verify that he has enough compression to start the engine, THEN worry about coolant seals. he could check these seals by leaving the coolant cap off when he gets the car started making sure that there arent lots of bubbles or pressure shooting the coolant out...
and way to show off your knowledge with the "THERE IS NO MAF ON ANY FC" (maybe he meant to type AFM?) come on dude.
phillip:
1. do a compression test to verify you have enough compression to get the engine started. if you dont, put some motor oil (or maybe something thinner like MMO or tcw3 2cycle premix) into the spark plug holes to raise the compression. if that doesnt work, try pullstarting the car... you can make alot more compression when you're pulling the car around at 2000rpms than you can cranking it at 300rpms. i'm guessing it has enough compression to get it started since you said it once started and died...
2. check the AFM and make sure its plugged in. you can run a car without the AFM but it will run like total dogshit. a fresh rebuild probably wont even run without the AFM (would probably crank up then just die), so i'd check that first.
3. dont worry about the coolant seals. unless you have abnormal pressure in the coolant system (which can be checked easily once the car is running) they are probably fine.
4. the timing is probably fine.
Where should I start
a coolant compression tester? wtf man... i think he can do a regular engine compression test to verify that he has enough compression to start the engine
2. check the AFM and make sure its plugged in. you can run a car without the AFM but it will run like total dogshit. a fresh rebuild probably wont even run without the AFM (would probably crank up then just die), so i'd check that first.
THERE IS NO MAF ON ANY FC" (maybe he meant to type AFM?)
There you go again rambling utter BS out your ***.
Karack - You are among the leet of CAS stabbers! My friend, I stand corrected.
Last edited by iceblue; 12-18-05 at 05:18 PM.
)
12-18-05, 05:23 PM
#25
Passing life by
Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
man, you are a total retard.
For the poster. It is common for new rebuilder to roll the coolant seals on install. Not saying it happened but you mentioned allot of white smoke. This is normal and generally fuel. However it can be coolant as well. A simple coolant compression tester would verify this for you to just give you a heads up on your motor if it is serious or nothing to worry about. They are just a RAD cap with a pump and gauge that pressurizes your system and allows you to verify leaks.
Last edited by iceblue; 12-18-05 at 05:26 PM.