i will correct one thing though... an S5 will run with the AFM disconnected, i test drove a rebuild around the block.... sounded like a frickin bridgeport and i thought to myself: "holy ****, i didn't port it that much!?" but it would cut out with even slight throttle inputs.

S4 will idle like *** but die with any throttle input with the AFM disconnected.

edit: jacobs comment might have been aimed at the correct terminology of it being called a "coolant pressure tester", compression testing is a different term than pressure testing.

 

i got pwned because you looked up some oldass post of mine about wheel studs? you beat them out with a hammer... ?? if you're gonna lookup my posts and try to punk me out, atleast use something good like "you blew 4 engines and you've done 4 rebuilds"

who ******* cares about coolant seals if he cant get the car running? he obviously has enough compression to get it to fire. he can worry about coolant seal problems after the car is running, since they obviously arent affecting his compression enough to keep it from firing.

yeah its almost like i've done that before or something... also, the dudes car is an s5, so i believe a massive vacuum leak is going to be more of a problem than the AFM, though it could be both.

 

I would not know on a S5 to comment

I believe that is not correct as there is no fuel. S4 inputs fuel wile cranking only then taken over from the AFM. After the fuel inputted from cranking is depleted the car should die. About 1.5 seconds or so after startup. However dDub did have a freak of nature that has been unexplained in this department.

I would like to think so but being as how he was bashing the idea I believe he was only after combustion pressure.

 

yes i was only after combustion pressure. you keep talking about coolant seals when his engine isnt even running... he can worry about that once his engine is running..

i'm just trying to say the entire coolant seal thing is irrelevant. his engine has fine compression; atleast enough to get the engine to fire over. know what i mean?

 

I would say there's probably some stupid vac. line somewhere that's either disconnected or maybe has a leak... On top of a fresh rebuild that'll most likely run like crap for the first 20 minutes or so anyways.

I would carefully look around and inspect every vac. line. If you can't find anything I would start the car up and hold the revs at around 2k RPM's for around 20-30 minutes or so, just to eliminate the 'fresh rebuild' variable.. If you can get the car to hold a 1500-2000RPM idle, try the carb-cleaner spray trick and see if you can locate a vac. leak.

 

the freak of nature is that once an engine is started it can produce enough vacuum to draw fuel through the injectors running the fuel system off a negative pressure suction rather than high pressure, this is not ideal for good running conditions though and i learned this problem the hard way while installing an EMS where i could richen up the car enough to where it would run and idle fine but cut out after 4k or abrupt throttle inputs.

i had the look of blue helmut wearing funny looking guy when i installed the fuel pressure gauge and saw 0 on the needle but the engine running fine.

 

Oh c'mon iceblue, Karack beat me to it. An AFM is a MAF. Lets stop the terminolgy battles ok. Enough people have been proven wrong.

Back to Philips' problem. Anyone know what the black connector is. I jsut saw it on a harness I have, but I haven't been "inside" of a S5 in a while. Also, for some reason, my S5 FSM doesn't have wiring diagrams. The wire green with a black strip, in a black cover, with a black round connector. It's also on the "branch" of wires that have the green connector that connects to the back of the waterpump.

Philip, can you post the other details, about the slugde, and the white/grey smoke?

Edit: This motor was rebuilt about a year ago, and has sat for a year. The builder informed Philip that he rotated the motor and added a preventative oil to the chambers while it was sitting.

 

Actually
you can run NO AFM on FC.
HKS VPC or MAFCOMP

really iceblue, how many FCs have you worked on? You are in no position to argue with Karack. Just a few months ago, you weren't sure which hose is for powerbrakes... you have NEVER rebuilt a 13B and I am not even sure if your swap runs.

My S5 will start and idle without an AFM. It is "driveable" from garage to street to driveway, etc.

 

asdoijasdoijasoidj

 

Do you believe that was dDub's situation?

 

damn you guys are making me feel guilty for starting this all over something i was wrong in terminology for in the first place....

KNOCK IT OFF!


edit: i didn't see dDub's post but it could be a possibility.

 

anyways, back to our buddy phillip here.

 

bigdv519 --The terminology is of 2 completely different items and aspects of technology. And should be drop as it was discussed from karack and me

slpin Actually
you can run NO AFM on FC.
HKS VPC or MAFCOMP

really iceblue, how many FCs have you worked on? You are in no position to argue with Karack. Just a few months ago, you weren't sure which hose is for powerbrakes... you have NEVER rebuilt a 13B and I am not even sure if your swap runs.

--Now that’s just ignorant. A VPC is something very rare and along no way the stock form thus irrelevant.

My S5 will start and idle without an AFM. It is "driveable" from garage to street to driveway, etc.

--Hmm last I saw the S5 discussion was left un noted from me for a reason. Try again plz.

really iceblue, how many FCs have you worked on?
--7 now

--Maybe you should review my work and pay more attention and stop getting schooled. There is actual vids and forum members who have drove in that FC. It has also undergone much more work then you have performed on yours. Come to think about it the car has received several magazine requests from local shows hmmm :-/

 

i can assure you.
ask ANYONE here.
they would have me work on their car many times before they would even let you put gas in theirs.

i guess you dont know much about my car if you think you have done more work.

your "work" to me is merely, been there, done that.

HKS VPC is NOT rare and can be had all day on ebay for 200.
now compare that to the cost of an afc and an afm?
just because you are inexperience and know nothing......

coming from a town that has an average income of 25k yearly, it is no surprise you are stupid, rude and uneducated... i dont blame you....

i blame your father for not investing 25 cents for a condom.

 

the bold text shows "any FC" which includes s4's i would think.

 

ok, first off thanks to all that have given me ideas and sugesstions. the thing attached to the bottom of the air box, whatever you want to call it, is plugged in. I just did the ghetto compression test and got 110+ psi on rear rotor and 95ish on front. that does not mean that all faces of all rotors have hight compression but at least the engine is good for something. at the bottom is a picture of the plug that Bigdv described that i cannot find a home for. also i have not bolted the full exause system on, some very dark liquid dripps out of the exauhst while running, it could be due to the thick grease like stuff that was in the motor earlyer or it couls be unbernt gas or it could be oil, i'm not shure. Also i used the old rubber dougnut peaces which surround the fuel ingector, i did not know that they were supposed to be really squishy when i put them on. this could be a cause of a vaccume leak (i guess). Ok, so is there any more sugesstions before i pull the intake & emmisions control crap off again?
Thanks, Philip

 

Yea im sure you have done RHD conversion. Been there not done that is more like it. Dont speculate on income or anything you have no idea about.

 

IIRC that plug is for cars with auxilary fan. And it plugs on the waterpump housing..

 

where on the water pump does it plug into? bottom? front? i looked at the water pump before i put it on and could not see where it goes.... maybe i need to look again. well if that plug was in fact for the water pump i guess it would not really affect the running

 

Should be on the back next to the thermo sensor.

 

philip, some cars didnt have it. so dont go crazy if you dont have the plug on the back of the waterpump housing.

 

well i'm just trying to figure this out before i put the manifolds back on..... but maybe its just a nothing plug, i don't remember a plug like that while taking if apart though

 

I wouldnt let you torque my lug nuts.

Sounds like some other members of this board.. Namely YOU.

 

Its right next to the watertemp in back of the housing... If you dont have it then dont worry about it..

 

The only way youll get a vpc for 200 is inconplete... And yes they are rare, see how many members are currently using one..