reinstalled my motor agian today... runs, but wont idle i dont have any throttle response and its hard to keep running.... vaccum is steady tho... what are some common problems like this when people reinstall there motors? thanks

 

I have heard several times that a rebuilt engine (especially with big ports) is hard to get and keep running at first. How many miles have you driven?
Vaccum leaks, missed sensor wires, AFM issues...
Cory

 

well its a little hard to start at first takes about 30 seconds then it finally kicks over and goes to about 4k rpms then comes down pretty slow and if tap the gas peddle i really dont get any response.. takes about 2 seconds to respond

 

This is not a rebuild 350v8 piston engine, and it is not a toyota camry. It is a turbo rotary. Theyre vastly different. The way they work is vastly different, and the way they respond to rebuilds/fresh installations is vastly different. You can NOT expect a fresh rebuild to run well; it has low (less than new spec) compression, often less than the old one you removed. The reason for the long, specific breakin period is to allow compresssion to raise up to a normal level befor eyou beat the **** out of the engine.

The best thing you can do now is set the idle up so it'll run, and go on a good road trip, or at least drive it all you can, normally, staying out of boost (above atmospheric) and below 4-4.5k. Hell, even letting it idle in the driveway is better for it than not running at all.

Dont even bother revving it out or trying to boost it until breakin is done, cause a) you can do more damage than good, and b) the rebuild is still weak, and wont give you much power anyway...

How you treat your rebuilt rotary for the first 2000 miles is directly proportional to how well it will run for the next 100000...

 

That said, it sounds like you may also have some other problems adding to the poor running, such as off timing or vacuum leaks...

 

im trying very hard to keep it under 4k its really weird like ill tap the pedel no repsone all the sudden itll go from like 2400 to 4000...?

 

ya im gonna check timing agian

 

bad timing, HUGE vac leak, AFM not plugged in/functioning, perhaps plug wires are hooked up backwards, etc.

 

afm plugged in , checked wires twice.... cant be a vac leak cuz i get about 15-17 inches of vac at 2k... but ill check agian just in case...

 

thanks for the help too you guys!!! no seriously tho thanks heheheehe im 16 so i don't think about simple stuff sometimes... you should see the rear stat gear i took out the bearing was one with the eshaft lol

 

pulled some codes.... dear lord


8 18 20 30 33 34

 

8 is your AFM

that's all I can recall off the top of my head..

I was getting 3,8,13,30,33

30 & 33 deal with emissions like the split air so guessing you removed and blocked that off that explains those two codes.

I'm down to just 13,30,33. I'll get 13 fixed tomarrow i hope and then run my new motor for atleast an hour or two

good luck with your project.. looks like you have fun still in store

 

do i have to replace my afm?>

 

how do i fix this one? my mop worked just fine before the new motor

20 - Metering Oil Pump (MOP) position sensor - Basic Fuel Inj and fixed timing

 

check your wiring.. do you have a DMM??

that's how i fixed two of my wiring problems with my swap. I checked resistances to make sure the actual sensor was working properly then traced it back to the ECU to see if I was losing my signal.

when I was getting a Code 8 It kinda fixed itself I didn't really do anything more than clean the terminals and put dielectric grease on it in hopes i was just getting a shatty connection.. and I was

 

You should unplug your battery and pump the brakes and let it sit about 5-10 seconds then plug it back in start the car and try again from there, perhaps they never cleared from before.