New guy, Which RX7 DO I HAVE ? @HELP@
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: wi/il
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
New guy, Which RX7 DO I HAVE ? @HELP@
ok got my first rotory i now alot about cars own a shop but not much about rx7,
so few questions:
i have a 1991 unknown model 5speed with i was told jdm swapped turbo engine ?
he said original turbo engine blew ?but the car wasent a turbo chassis ? as the hood is a non turbo ?
new engine is like new, with arc intercooler and tial bov ? he said new turbo ?
how do i tell which model it is ?
it has the split mirrors ? and everything electric inside ?
what engine do i have ? its single turbo jdm engine he said ?
whats my chassis code ?
whats s4 and s5 ? thanks
also my idle is ALWAYS at k ,,how do i fix it ?
and what are some of the first things i should chekc and or replace ?
so few questions:
i have a 1991 unknown model 5speed with i was told jdm swapped turbo engine ?
he said original turbo engine blew ?but the car wasent a turbo chassis ? as the hood is a non turbo ?
new engine is like new, with arc intercooler and tial bov ? he said new turbo ?
how do i tell which model it is ?
it has the split mirrors ? and everything electric inside ?
what engine do i have ? its single turbo jdm engine he said ?
whats my chassis code ?
whats s4 and s5 ? thanks
also my idle is ALWAYS at k ,,how do i fix it ?
and what are some of the first things i should chekc and or replace ?
#7
three spinning triangles
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trending Topics
#8
Rotary Powered Since 1995
iTrader: (4)
There's been a lot of vague and sketchy answers to this guy's questions. Unfortunately, the images of the original Mazda brochures in the FAQ have been down for about a month since they were hosted on Icemark's old site, so referring the OP to the FAQ is not really all that helpful.
First, S4 = 1986-1988, S5 = 1989-1992 (1991 in the U.S.)
In 1991, all non-turbo RX-7s were called "Coupe," not "base." There were various option packages on the Coupe. All had power windows, some had the upgraded 4-piston front brake calipers/vented rear rotors, some had the base brakes.
If the car originally had a turbo engine as the previous owner stated, then this car may have started as a Turbo model, even if now it has a hood without a scoop, which is a pretty easy swap and popular if you switch to a FMIC. If this car was a Turbo from the factory, it would have come with the upgraded brakes and the Turbo-specific seats and interior trim. Also you'd have an LSD. Is there a factory boost gauge in the instrument cluster? These are some things to look for to figure out what the car was originally. (Of course, there were apparently a few highly-optioned non-turbo Coupes that did have an LSD, but that is less common.) Maybe the best way to figure out what it was to start with is to check the tire information decal inside the driver's door. If it specifies 16" wheels, it was originally a Turbo since all NA 1991s had 15" wheels.
Unlike 1986-1990, all 1991s had power windows. Also, all '89-91s had the "split" or Aero mirrors.
As to the "chassis code," I guess you're referring to "FC" which is generally the shorthand by which these cars are known.
Trouble is, at this point nearly everything that originally was on your car may have been changed by a previous owner. Agreed that photos would help us identify the car.
First, S4 = 1986-1988, S5 = 1989-1992 (1991 in the U.S.)
In 1991, all non-turbo RX-7s were called "Coupe," not "base." There were various option packages on the Coupe. All had power windows, some had the upgraded 4-piston front brake calipers/vented rear rotors, some had the base brakes.
If the car originally had a turbo engine as the previous owner stated, then this car may have started as a Turbo model, even if now it has a hood without a scoop, which is a pretty easy swap and popular if you switch to a FMIC. If this car was a Turbo from the factory, it would have come with the upgraded brakes and the Turbo-specific seats and interior trim. Also you'd have an LSD. Is there a factory boost gauge in the instrument cluster? These are some things to look for to figure out what the car was originally. (Of course, there were apparently a few highly-optioned non-turbo Coupes that did have an LSD, but that is less common.) Maybe the best way to figure out what it was to start with is to check the tire information decal inside the driver's door. If it specifies 16" wheels, it was originally a Turbo since all NA 1991s had 15" wheels.
Unlike 1986-1990, all 1991s had power windows. Also, all '89-91s had the "split" or Aero mirrors.
As to the "chassis code," I guess you're referring to "FC" which is generally the shorthand by which these cars are known.
Trouble is, at this point nearly everything that originally was on your car may have been changed by a previous owner. Agreed that photos would help us identify the car.
#9
Rotorhead
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Posts: 9,136
Likes: 0
Received 39 Likes
on
33 Posts
The model it is: Frankenseven
The model it was: Doesn't matter, it is no longer whatever it was.
How is anybody on the internet supposed to know that without any pictures or even a description?
It is on a sticker inside the driver's side door jam.
See the FAQ. If your VIN indicates that it was made in 1991, then it was an S5. However, the S4 and S5 parts are pretty much interchangeable, so your car could have various parts put on it over the last 18 years.
Search the 2Gen forum for threads with "idle" in the title.
See chapter 00 of the 1989-1991 factory service manual and inspect all items in your car's mileage range to see if they need replacement. It would be nice if the previous owner can tell you when everything was replaced.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1989_1991/
Aaron Cake's website also lists a buying guide which lists the common problems with these cars:
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/buy1.htm
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/buy2.htm
Things I recommend:
Engine Oil - Castrol GTX (see the manual for the proper weight for the temperature range of your region). Replace the two oil pedestal O-rings about every 50,000 miles (two needed).
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=10-1601-9954
Oil Filter - The ugly Mazda brand filter is actually very good.
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve F106 without the nipple - Makes changing oil very easy, even without jack stands if you have a low-profile oil pan.
Transmission and Differential Oil - Any type of synthetic. I like Red Line brand, but other brands are fine too.
Engine Coolant - Green ethylene glycol type mixed with distilled water.
Thermostat - Nippon
Spark Plugs - NGK
Brake Fluid - Flush the whole system with ATE Super Blue to make sure you know that it is completely flushed when the bleeding turns from amber to blue. Then next time you can either use Castrol LMA or ATE Type 200 to make sure it is fully flushed when it turns back to amber from blue.
The model it was: Doesn't matter, it is no longer whatever it was.
How is anybody on the internet supposed to know that without any pictures or even a description?
It is on a sticker inside the driver's side door jam.
See the FAQ. If your VIN indicates that it was made in 1991, then it was an S5. However, the S4 and S5 parts are pretty much interchangeable, so your car could have various parts put on it over the last 18 years.
Search the 2Gen forum for threads with "idle" in the title.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1989_1991/
Aaron Cake's website also lists a buying guide which lists the common problems with these cars:
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/buy1.htm
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/buy2.htm
Things I recommend:
Engine Oil - Castrol GTX (see the manual for the proper weight for the temperature range of your region). Replace the two oil pedestal O-rings about every 50,000 miles (two needed).
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=10-1601-9954
Oil Filter - The ugly Mazda brand filter is actually very good.
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve F106 without the nipple - Makes changing oil very easy, even without jack stands if you have a low-profile oil pan.
Transmission and Differential Oil - Any type of synthetic. I like Red Line brand, but other brands are fine too.
Engine Coolant - Green ethylene glycol type mixed with distilled water.
Thermostat - Nippon
Spark Plugs - NGK
Brake Fluid - Flush the whole system with ATE Super Blue to make sure you know that it is completely flushed when the bleeding turns from amber to blue. Then next time you can either use Castrol LMA or ATE Type 200 to make sure it is fully flushed when it turns back to amber from blue.
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: wi/il
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
mine has split windows and he replaced tranny with the jdm that came with the swap from japan, im just wondering which model original do i have turbo or gxl ro what ?
and no boost gauge on cluster its a 160mph and 9k rpm all black interior , has split mirrors and spoiler, big brakes and it has some steelies so not sure on wheels, what motor from japan.
and no boost gauge on cluster its a 160mph and 9k rpm all black interior , has split mirrors and spoiler, big brakes and it has some steelies so not sure on wheels, what motor from japan.
#14
three spinning triangles
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
please take some pictures if you can!
sounds like it was an N/a chassis....
engine could be anything according to your description... 13b turbo, 13b-rew, 13b-re, 20b...
sounds like it was an N/a chassis....
engine could be anything according to your description... 13b turbo, 13b-rew, 13b-re, 20b...
#15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: wi/il
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
whats the best 1b that there is ? ill post pictures and thanks for help and i hope u inform me with what i have etc, thanks
oh and he said the 5 speed is upgraded jdm meaning lsd ?
oh and he said the 5 speed is upgraded jdm meaning lsd ?
#17
bone stock
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: SOCAL
Posts: 734
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
stfu and don't post here if his English is bothering you. English is my second language as well and it's not cool when people talk **** especially when you are trying and learning. if you want to help then help if not stfu and go on to the next thread cause you are not f'ing helping
#21
1.5 Goodfella's Tall
iTrader: (97)
I'm trying to help but the ability to understand is quite crucial to that. Considering the amount of kids who post threads that sound like this, "yo dawg lik wutz gud for mah 7" you should understand.
I understand your reaction to my post considering your own experience, but if you re-read it, I simply asked if he had someone who could help make what he was asking more understandable.
If I moved to a different country I'd learn the local language...but I live in the US so it would be nice if others took the time to learn English like you did to help communication. That is all. =)
I understand your reaction to my post considering your own experience, but if you re-read it, I simply asked if he had someone who could help make what he was asking more understandable.
If I moved to a different country I'd learn the local language...but I live in the US so it would be nice if others took the time to learn English like you did to help communication. That is all. =)
#22
Rotorhead
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Posts: 9,136
Likes: 0
Received 39 Likes
on
33 Posts
"5 speed" means the transmission, but not necessarily the differential. Most likely he included the turbo LSD, but it is also possible to attach the turbo transmmission to the non-turbo differential with a driveshaft sold by Mazdatrix, or by various ghetto methods.
Agreed. I have a lot of experience working with foreigners, leet-speaking teenagers, and the downtrodden, but the phrase "whats the best 1b that there is ?" still makes no sense to me.
Just so that you know where I am coming from, I will use the original poster's language in my reply...
iT s33m5 2 me that teh o-riginel postR iz poorlie edukated, haz mad sloppy typing skillz, uses l33t 2 much, n doesnt spell check hiz wrok. I dont c wut this has 2 do wit "trying and learning". Mane forn-speeking members on this forum hav gon thru a lot of fert n an attempt 2 communicate. Teh OP... not so much. I think teh OP should try 2 communcait betr, or hav som1 else communcait 4 him, as recommended bi Gringo Grande.
stfu and don't post here if his English is bothering you. English is my second language as well and it's not cool when people talk **** especially when you are trying and learning. if you want to help then help if not stfu and go on to the next thread cause you are not f'ing helping
iT s33m5 2 me that teh o-riginel postR iz poorlie edukated, haz mad sloppy typing skillz, uses l33t 2 much, n doesnt spell check hiz wrok. I dont c wut this has 2 do wit "trying and learning". Mane forn-speeking members on this forum hav gon thru a lot of fert n an attempt 2 communicate. Teh OP... not so much. I think teh OP should try 2 communcait betr, or hav som1 else communcait 4 him, as recommended bi Gringo Grande.
#23
I fix planes...
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Murica
Posts: 559
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Pictures are worth a thousand words. If the car has been converted and/or repainted it could be difficult to figure out what it once was.
On another note, I agree with the idea that you should probably do more research on this car before you continue. RX7's can me a real headache if you don't know its quirks. Not only that, but if this is your first car I'd be extra careful. There is a lot of helpful people on this forum and a lot of information that can be found form using the search feature.
On another note, I agree with the idea that you should probably do more research on this car before you continue. RX7's can me a real headache if you don't know its quirks. Not only that, but if this is your first car I'd be extra careful. There is a lot of helpful people on this forum and a lot of information that can be found form using the search feature.
#24
bone stock
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: SOCAL
Posts: 734
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just so that you know where I am coming from, I will use the original poster's language in my reply...
iT s33m5 2 me that teh o-riginel postR iz poorlie edukated, haz mad sloppy typing skillz, uses l33t 2 much, n doesnt spell check hiz wrok. I dont c wut this has 2 do wit "trying and learning". Mane forn-speeking members on this forum hav gon thru a lot of fert n an attempt 2 communicate. Teh OP... not so much. I think teh OP should try 2 communcait betr, or hav som1 else communcait 4 him, as recommended bi Gringo Grande.
#25
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: wi/il
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
oh heres pic tures, and original paint no rust,
it wont stay running it idleas 2k and dies !
if im driving and et go of gas under k it dies, and it is laggy, but man it has lots of power, when flored in second the 15" by 65 brake loose !
tell me what i have and what i should check, also what can i do to checkl vacuum and lines that are plugged ?
also oil preasure/temp dont work !
no thermostat , and lots of un plugged plug, it was converted he sai, check it out:
http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/h...9354/?newest=1
http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/h...9354/?newest=1
it wont stay running it idleas 2k and dies !
if im driving and et go of gas under k it dies, and it is laggy, but man it has lots of power, when flored in second the 15" by 65 brake loose !
tell me what i have and what i should check, also what can i do to checkl vacuum and lines that are plugged ?
also oil preasure/temp dont work !
no thermostat , and lots of un plugged plug, it was converted he sai, check it out:
http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/h...9354/?newest=1
http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/h...9354/?newest=1