Hey, I just dropped in a new (well fairly new 30,000mile jdm 13b) in my 87 rx-7 and it won't start. The engine cranks, and tries to turnover, but no luck. There is good spark, and gas is going to both sets of injectors. I tried playing around with the crank angle sensor, and it made no difference. I'm kind of at a loss. If anybody has any idea reply or send me an email at blacksailsxx@aol.com
Thanks, Ray

 

also, i already tried the "pulling egi fuse" trick and it doesn't workl.

 

heres some info to get you going in right direction...

-best way to unflood- pull fuel pump relay out from under steering column and crank engine holding gas pedal to floor. repeat couple of times and put relay back in

-how do you know gas is getting to injectors? primary injectors are the only ones that should fire during starting/idle. its VERY EASY to hook up the injector connectors wrong. and easy to hook up fuel return/supply hoses wrong

-major intake air leaks can make new engine no-start. (vacuum lines hooked up wrong or not hooked up at all)

-aligned the CAS per factory instuctions?

-compression test?

double check ALL eclectricals and vacuum lines?

this is a series4 jspec engine going into series4 car correct?

not easy to diagnose a no-start over internet, but sounds like you know what your doing. keep at it and you'll find the problem

Mike

 

yeah, its an s4 engine going into an s4 car. the engine wants to start, but it falls short. Im going to try pulling the spark plugs and cleaning them off. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

Check to make sure your fuel lines are going the right way. They are switched on Jspecs.

 

hmmm, will do

 

only one fuel line has fuel in it, the other one is like completely dry

 

Well other than the fuel line switch it sounds like your flooded.

My S5 Jspec had a normal Aspec fuel setup. I have a weird engine though.

With my rebuild I had the same problem. It almst got there but then nothing

My plugs turned out to be so gas and oil coated that they woudln't spark. Pull them out and clean them up.

Try it again. If it doesn't work then push start or tow-start the car and drop it in 2nd.

That's how I get my rebuild running It's only ran for 1 1/2 hours so far.

 

get a compression check first, you really dont know what your buying unless you get the motor completely checked out when buying a jspec, id suggest getting a compression test 1st, will it start if you give it a little gas? my engine had a similar problem like this, turns out the AFM wasnt plugged in all the way, i plugged it back in prompylty and started up right away

 

i checked the air flow meter plug, its all the way on, i cleaned the spark plugs (which are brand new by the way, as well as the spark plug wires), they had some gas on them but not as much as i had expected. The engine is guarenteed to have within factory specs compression, and right now i dont have the money to tow it to a dealership and have them check the compression.

 

doesnt start at all, with or without gas, i played with the crank angle sensor for a while, and going in a clockwise direction it gets worse, counterclockwise, it gets better, but it still doesnt start. its trying to, but it wont fire up.

 

BlackSail - If you pulled your fuel lines, and one side was bone dry, you have a japanese fuel rail assembly (Surprising on a jspec, eh?), make sure the fuel filter line is going into the left side, and the return is on the right.. this stumped me.. also, as stupid as it sounds, check all your fuses, i blew one somehow, that killed one of the main engine ones, it was a hairline fracture, and i only diagnosed it by luck, check the contiutity of them..

timing can also be an issue, make sure you have it timed properly.

This is a pain in the ***, isn't it? I'm working with the same problem now, but though the processes of elimination, i've gotten it to start for ~20 seconds twice now... she WILL run tonight, dammit!

 

Then you need to switch your lines... take the rubber lines off beside the oil filler neck and switch them around on the mteal tubes. Common mistake.

 

i did that, and still nothing

 

when i took the lines off though, after switching them, the line closer to the firewall (which initially was farther from the firewall) started spraying fuel, whereas when i took it off to switch them, fuel just dribbled out.