Need suspension suggestions (Megan/Stance/Ground Control)???
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Need suspension suggestions (Megan/Stance/Ground Control)???
Hi everyone,
I was hoping some people could give me some advice on a new suspension setup for my V8 RX-7. I'm stuck between the following options:
* Megan Racing Track Series ~ $900 (12kg Front and 10kg Rear) (link)
* Stance GR+ Pro ~ $1250 (9kg Front and 7kg Rear... but the rates can be increased when ordering) (link)
* Ground Control / Koni Custom Setup ~ $170 (whatever spring rates I want)
Megan Racing - Cheapest option so I can get it quicker
Stance - Middle of the road so I can get it shortly
Ground Control - Need to wait a while before I go this route
Some things to consider, the car never drives on the streets and always runs on slicks so street driveability is not an issue for me. I run in Solo events and also take it to the drag strip every now and again so I am primarily targeting a setup for solo events.
So what's the best bang for my buck suspension?
Thanks!
P.S. - Did a lot of searching and found that a lot of people say stance is good but not a lot of those people actually owned their track setup and used it just for track use. Megan racing, everyone is saying they are rough on the streets but not too much about their trackability. And Ground Control is always a front runner from what I have been reading but I'm not sure if its overkill for me.
I was hoping some people could give me some advice on a new suspension setup for my V8 RX-7. I'm stuck between the following options:
* Megan Racing Track Series ~ $900 (12kg Front and 10kg Rear) (link)
* Stance GR+ Pro ~ $1250 (9kg Front and 7kg Rear... but the rates can be increased when ordering) (link)
* Ground Control / Koni Custom Setup ~ $170 (whatever spring rates I want)
Megan Racing - Cheapest option so I can get it quicker
Stance - Middle of the road so I can get it shortly
Ground Control - Need to wait a while before I go this route
Some things to consider, the car never drives on the streets and always runs on slicks so street driveability is not an issue for me. I run in Solo events and also take it to the drag strip every now and again so I am primarily targeting a setup for solo events.
So what's the best bang for my buck suspension?
Thanks!
P.S. - Did a lot of searching and found that a lot of people say stance is good but not a lot of those people actually owned their track setup and used it just for track use. Megan racing, everyone is saying they are rough on the streets but not too much about their trackability. And Ground Control is always a front runner from what I have been reading but I'm not sure if its overkill for me.
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https://www.mazdamotorsports.com/web...0001&langId=-1
Stance would probably work OK, but there is no way I would go with Megan, especially considering the insignificant price difference.
Also, I know it sounds like you are on a budget, but regardless of which suspension you choose, you really need to install new mounts and bushings if you have not already done so recently. If your current mounts and bushings are in bad condition, it is very possible that they will catastrophically fail with an upgraded stiff suspension, and it is quite common for new suspension components to get bent due to worn or torn mounts/bushings because the suspension components are loaded and unloaded in a manner other they were designed. Besides, there isn't much point in having a new stiff damper/spring combo if your car still bounces around the track due to worn or torn mounts/bushings.
I still need to post it to the web, but my friend came up with a great method for removing the A-arm bushings with a mill. You just mill down the rubber a little at a time and it pops open as soon as you get close to the metal barb.
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There was no damage at all to the barbs because the rubber popped it open before it got to that point. The particles you see on the barbs in the third picture are rubber bits, not metal bits or nicks. I think it is a bad idea to attempt the usual hacksaw method when you are dealing with $500 aluminum A-arms.
Thanks to SPiN Racing for doing such a great job!
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Evil Aviator, I am going to sign up with Mazda Motorsports to see what they have available for my setup. And yes, I am on a budget (I'll spend as much as $2k but it's more of a timing thing). If I get the more expensive one, I will just need to save a bit more cash and then get it so I'll just have to wait.
ATRON3000, how would I end up figuring out spring rates going off the weight of the car? I'm new to trying to size up spring rates so I'm not sure how to do the calculation.
ATRON3000, how would I end up figuring out spring rates going off the weight of the car? I'm new to trying to size up spring rates so I'm not sure how to do the calculation.
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#8
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I still need to find the piece of paper in which I wrote down how much of a depth he was using for each pass. He tried both a large and small diameter bit, and both worked just fine, so I don't think the size matters much. You could maybe also do this with a router table, but I'm not sure. Attached are some pictures that should give you the basic idea until I can put a write-up on the web.
There was no damage at all to the barbs because the rubber popped it open before it got to that point. The particles you see on the barbs in the third picture are rubber bits, not metal bits or nicks. I think it is a bad idea to attempt the usual hacksaw method when you are dealing with $500 aluminum A-arms.
Thanks to SPiN Racing for doing such a great job!
There was no damage at all to the barbs because the rubber popped it open before it got to that point. The particles you see on the barbs in the third picture are rubber bits, not metal bits or nicks. I think it is a bad idea to attempt the usual hacksaw method when you are dealing with $500 aluminum A-arms.
Thanks to SPiN Racing for doing such a great job!
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