Glad to see it's working. Coolant leaks from that area are normally caused by the drivers side heater hose. They have a tendency to split. If that's not it, check to see if the coolant is coming from under the intake. If it is, then it's probably the "dreaded" 90 degree coolant hose. You need to pull the intake to get at it.

 

It seems to be coming from behind and under the Altenator (?), or the top pulley nearest to the intercooler.... when I got down and looked, it seemed like it was leaking near a green plug of some sort that's next to a hose.... it only happens during high revs, though..... is it easily replaced?

 

Eh, everything's up and running now.... just took off the altenator and removed the coolant hose (It had a huge gash in it from rotting away I guess), went to Advance Auto and got two feet of hosing and replaced it.... now it runs just fine besides the slightly high idle and the non working brake lights.... Guess that's next on the list.... suggestions?

 

Turbo II baby!

HAVE FUN WITH IT!

 

Just saw the thread now..
Good job!
I'm surprised so many people talked about compression...
Sure, that's an initial thing, but if you can start the car at all with just the starter motor, the compression isn't that bad.

I would have said you have a big vacuum leak... probably a split hose, or check the two larger rubber hoses that goes to the big plastic air snorkel.... if those are off it won't isle at all.. sounds textbook to me.
ALso, on the driver side of the car, at the top of the intake manifold there is another larger hose, check that one.
Your problem isn't AFM related I dont' think... it's just putting more fuel in because you are holding it open... compensating for the leak.
Good luck!

 

Oh, I don't have to hold it open at all... lol, just had to push it open once cuz it got stuck.... starts up just fine now without any assistance..... just gotta figure out why the hell my brake lights won't work.... XD

 

wow, that AFM thing happened to me too. My car was running fine, but had some crazy vacuum leaks. So i replaced all the vac hoses. Then i tried to start the car but it would only stay alive fo liek 3 seconds. Couldn't figure it out. I looked over and over... and finally realized that i forgot to plug the AFM plug back in. Runs fine now. ^_^

 

lol, dammit.... just when I thought I could be safe by leaving my car untagged in my driveway to drop mods in it.... the city's saying that I gotta get my car registered in 10 days, and I'm kinda at a loss on what to do.... lol, I mean my damn brake lights don't even work for inspection... I try to push the pedal down and nothing happens, but when I turn on the lights they come on.... Any suggestions on what to do about either? (And I was just about to drop my money on a new exhaust, FCD and boost guage.... ~_~)

 

lol, only have a few more days guys.... I don't wanna have to take it somewhere else to fix the light problem before I take it in for inspection.... somebody's gotta have an idea on why my brake lights don't work... :P

 

Last time mine (brake lights) didn't work, a new CPU circuit (small) board fixed it. Or, re-solder the board, if you know how

 

A new CPU? Damn, seems like a hassle... lol, any other suggestions?

 

No no, a new CPU isn't necessary, replacing the "smallest circuit board" within the CPU worked for me

 

Ahh, I see.... my bad... XD

 

No sweat It's been awhile but I believe there's a test for each circuit in the FSM/Chapter 15/Body Electric. I ordered a replacement board from Mazdaformance ($38.75) since I didn't have an extra CPU onhand or know how to re-solder the old board. Good luck

 

Check the brake sensor on the brake pedal with a multimeter, to see if it works. Mayeb a fuse too? I can't remember if there is one for brakes, but check it out.
And oh, you can keep anything in your driveway as long as you want, even a damn tank if you want.
If you got a temporary permit it might expire in 10 days, but you don't have to worry about keeping it in your driveway- just not on the road.

 

Ok, i'll try that.... the fuse still looked good to me (The one labeled "Stop"? lol), so I left it in even after swapping with a spare for a sec.... Happy New Year guys... :P

 

Fuses must be tested, not just looked at. It should pass a continuity test.

After that, thest the switch at the brake pedal. Should conduct when the pedal is pressed.

If that doesn't do it, go through the CPU resolder procedure. This should be done to ALL RX-7s if it has not been done in the past. I guarantee it will clear up a bunch of small weird problems.

 

OK, bringing back this post from the dead.... lol, I hadn't done it in a while, so I decided to warm up my 7 after that streak of snow showers.... after it's warmed up, I decide to drive it up and down the driveway just to practice on it a bit (Since I still don't have tags for it).... when I got to the end and put it in reverse, I heard a sort of pop or clunk noise.... I ignored it and rolled back up the driveway, then dropped it in neutral and revved the engine a bit..... then all of a sudden, I see droplets of what seems to be oil start spraying from the hood... I shut it down, and go to the front to check it out..... when I look down, it looks like my 7 just took a crap on itself.... nothing but a huge puddle of oil starts coming out from underneath.... I haven't tried to start it up since... lol, any suggestions??

 

something took a chunk out of your oil cooler or one of the lines maybe?

 

I was thinking about that, actually.... guess I should jack up the car and see what's what... are the cooler or lines hard (aka expensive) to replace?

 

They're a PITA Replacement price depends if you get used or new parts but check here for an idea:>http://mazdatrix.com/b6.htm

 

lol, DAMN..... ahh well, gotta toss those into the "List of things to get" along with injectors.... since i'm mentioning them, anybody know the best setup of injectors to use with about a 280 HP setup?

 

720's all around should cut it, but you might want to go with some 8xxcc sized or possibly 1000cc injectors(plenty of headroom... 800 somethings should do it) in the secondaries and keep the 550's as primaries to help with cruise gas mileage and idle. The larger the injector, the harder it is to tune for idle. Smaller injectors also atomize the fuel better.

EDIT: oh yea, for anything bigger than 720's you will need a standalone to control. You'll need an SAFC or equivalent to control the 720's. You should be fine with 4 720's.