2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

need a quick outline for thermal pellet

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 13, 2005 | 01:14 PM
  #1  
apreludem's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
From: houston
need a quick outline for thermal pellet

removal and replacement...i'm about to take on this mission soon and i just wanted to know if anyone here could post a quick outline (maybe some tips or fyi stuff that could help) that i could follow when the time comes. Thanks.
Reply
Old Oct 13, 2005 | 03:37 PM
  #2  
Syonyk's Avatar
Rotary Freak
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,718
Likes: 1
From: Ames, IA
First, read this regarding the front stack:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm

Are you replacing it with a stock unit, or a solid one? Make sure you keep track of which way it goes (if you put it in backwards, it will starve the rear rotor), and keep track of where the springs go. If you're putting in a solid pellet, only the larger spring is reused.

-=Russ=-
Reply
Old Oct 13, 2005 | 03:46 PM
  #3  
Aaron Cake's Avatar
Engine, Not Motor
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
The pellet is really hard to put in backwards. It basically only fits one way once you see how it goes, but you CAN put it in backwards. I'm trying to think if this will cause the oil hole to be open constantly, but can't picture it. ASSUMING that you can even bolt it together with it backwards AND it leaves the hole uncovered, it will starve BOTH rotors. The oil relief hole lowers oil pressure accross the whole shaft, not just the rear.
Reply
Old Oct 13, 2005 | 03:50 PM
  #4  
apreludem's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
From: houston
hmm...ok that was a very useful site, thanks.

however, now i am more worried then ever about changing the pellet lol...i'll be using impact wrench and from the reading i assume that force will cause the bearing to drop behind the washer causing all sorts of problems. i guess it's best to pull everything off from the front cover ( replace O ring and what else if i have to remove front cover?) until i reach the bearing just to make sure it is placed correctly.

Any more help would be greatly appreciated...specially from those people who have actually changed the pellet with their engines still in their cars.

Thanks again.
Reply
Old Oct 13, 2005 | 03:52 PM
  #5  
Aaron Cake's Avatar
Engine, Not Motor
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
If you follow the instructions with the clutch, then you have nothing to worry about. The force of the clutch will keep the front stack together.
Reply
Old Oct 13, 2005 | 04:00 PM
  #6  
apreludem's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
From: houston
ah ok, thanks i feel better about it now lol.

Another quick question...what all should i buy to tackle this project? ...just the pellet right? or do i need like o rings and bearings too?
Reply
Old Oct 13, 2005 | 04:16 PM
  #7  
Aaron Cake's Avatar
Engine, Not Motor
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
If yoiu have to ask, I'm kind of worried.

If you are just replacing the pellet, you just need the o-ring. If you are removing the front cover, then you need:

-front cover gasket
-front cover oil o-ring
-new front cover oi seal (they're cheap)
-eccentric bolt o-ring
-maybe oil pan gasket
-water pump gaskets

There's no reason to remove the front cover if you are just replacing the thermal pellet.
Reply
Old Oct 13, 2005 | 04:45 PM
  #8  
apreludem's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
From: houston
yeah hopefully that's all i'll be doing.

i did notice that my oil pressure goes up when i let off the accelerator and when i press the accelerator it goes down again....but if i just press it and take it to 4k or 5k it goes up like normal .....i'm not sure what that is cause from what i hear if you rev it to 5k rpms and you have a pinched o ring your psi should drop the higher in the rpm band you get ...so i have no idea.

i have to install my pressure gauge first. Couldn't figure figure out how to install it ..there are two ferules (spl?) that i wasn't sure how they go together..turns out i'm suppose to tighten the nut until the ferrule is crushed or something like that....lol damn i sound so noobish but i have never installed a gauge before...guess i am a noob.


btw, thanks Aaron for all your help.
Reply
Old Oct 15, 2005 | 10:24 AM
  #9  
apreludem's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
From: houston
one more question.....what O ring do i need? the video i have doesn't show an O ring after you remove the huge bolt.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Logan Reinisch
General Rotary Tech Support
44
Sep 17, 2018 12:20 PM
zyph3r
Canadian Forum
10
Sep 16, 2018 07:14 PM
eplusz
General Rotary Tech Support
15
Oct 7, 2015 04:04 PM
TeamRuffRacing
Adaptronic Engine Mgmt - AUS
1
Sep 30, 2015 08:13 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:40 PM.