I will be removing my mazda reman engine from my car in early summer to be sold, since im doing a T2 swap, it was put in around 1999 - 2001, and will have approximately 85K on it when removed, no numbers right now but last year it was between 110-115 psi front and rear and burns no oil or coolant, the front cover gasket leaks badly but im replacing that before sale.

What should i sell it for, comes with the 85K mile new OE clutch too.

 

If the engine is still in the car, get a current, proper compression test from someone who can document the results. A year-old test doesn't mean much, other than your engine seemed to be in decent shape at the time. If the compression is still about as you state, set your initial asking price at about 70% of a "new" reman from Mazda. Then depending on how badly you want to sell the engine, you can negotiate a price that is acceptible to you from there. Check with a Mazda parts department for the current full retail price on a reman.

 

Well, as someone who may be in the market for a new engine. I would have to say, at 85k, I don't see it being worth 70% of new. Maybe 50% of new at best. But, it is worth only as much as someone is willing to pay.

For me, I am looking at rebuild costs, and it looks like I will have to pay somewhere in the neighborhood of $1900 to $2400 for a standard rebuild. So, with that in mind, I would have to judge the risk (how many miles left on the engine) versus the possible financial gain (how much cheaper can I buy it vs. the rebuilt).
Remember many rebuilts will come with a year to two year warranty.

If it were me, I would want to buy it for around $400 or so. And, please understand, I am not negiotating, I am just trying to give you one point of view.

 

Uh huh, that's why I said "...initial asking price at about 70%..." and "...you can negotiate a price that is acceptible to you from there.".

 

Sell your car with the engine in it and buy a t2. That way you get a car properly engineered to handle the t2 engine.

 

I'll do it. ;-)

Find someone with this tester: http://rotarydiagnostics.com/

Best tester easily available and gives full printed documentation. No one can dispute the results. If you are serious about rotaries, maybe you should even *buy* one?

Some day I will.

Jacki

 

I would get a clip of it running through the rpms to show before you pull it out as well, just something that helps sell much faster

 

BINGO.

 

I vote 3rd that one...

 

I would 4th that, but you gotta do what ya gotta do.....

 

Believe me, my car will be built far better than any stock T2 by far, i'm doing way more than a simple swap. Full chassis restoration.

Anyways, I wouldn't pay anyone to do a compression test on my car, that's just plain retarded, i have my own tester, just havent bothered with testing it myself. Either way I guess i will probably ask $500, seems decent enough to me.

 

If you swap the rear end and have the hard (turbo) suspension, what's the problem?