jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

I adjusted my TPS using the LED light method. I adjusted to one light being on. I also checked the Ohms and it was around 1.10 to 5. It seemed to run alot better but when I ran the codes it ran Code 12 & 18, both TPS related. It had 0 codes before the adjustment, but it ran like crap before. Now its better but has these two codes????????

Heres what I did. BTW the TPS is realitively new.
1. Warmed up car
2. Connected initial set coupler
3. Plugged in LED
4. Turned ignition on w/o starting
5. Adjusted LED until one light came on (initially both lights wrere on). Tightend adjustment locknut.
6. Disconneted initial set coupler and removed LED
7. Started car and went thru different RPMs and then re-checked afterwards that one LED was on to make sure TPS did not lose adjustment. Still one LEd on.

Not sure where to go now?

Thanks...
90 Vert

Icemark

might be a bad TPS, if you meter either TPS do you see any flat spots (drops or raises) when you move the throttle full travel???

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Icemark, today I put the Ohm meter on it after I warmed it up. It had a clean sweep between 1.25 to 4.74.

I noticed it was slightly different from yesturday so I put the LED light back on and it had both LEDs lighted. Yesterday it was only one light? Unplugged the LEDs, ran car again, and then put back in LED but this time NO LEDs lit. ????? Really confused on this. I have locktite on the adjustment screw nut so I dont think it moved any.

I noticed also when that when I had the ignition switch on I heard a rapid ticking sound coming from the TPS area (kinda like a fuel pump sound). I dont remember this from yesterday. Yesterday I would hear a single click.

Last think on the codes 12 & 18. Shouldnt the check engine light come on?

Ronin Rotary

Sure the rapid sound is not from the BAC??? It clicks

I have seen a couple S4 TPS when they start to fail; they get out of adjustment just by driving the car. Try just cranking the TPS adjustment screw a half turn clockwise or counter clock wise to compensate

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

You're probably right about the BAC. I'll check tomorrow. Reminds me that today when I tried to use the A/C to see what happens to the idle, the idle pulsated. Yesterday it did not pulsate. I'm hoping the TPS has alot of life left in it. Its relatively new (within past year) and was bigtime expensive being a Mazda OEM part.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

The 'clicking sound' was the BAC

Everytime I re-adjust the TPS with the LED (1 light on), I start it and run then stop, re-check and its back to 2 lights on. ****'n me off. How can you keep it from going out of adjustment?????????? The Ohms method looks good usually around 1.04 clean sweep to 4.74 but both LED lights are on.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Well I give up. After about 10 adjustments it goes back to 2 LEDs. Resistance is around 1.04 to 4.74. Codes are gone, but idle sucks when hot. Not near bad as before, but when cold I get a pulsation when I engage the trans. Once it heats up its gone, but idle sinks.

Icemark

sounds like the TPS is dieing... do you have someone elses that you can swap in to test???

Tiers

we just had same type of prob and codes after a new rebuild...swapped in another TPS and problem solved engine runs great...SOOO bad TPS

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

I guess I could try another TPS. Its realively new OEM and has a clean sweep with the OHM meter so I was hoping it was still good. I'll go back to checking with it next week-wasted too much time this week. Thanks for your inputs

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Im still working this issue (****'n me off). I cant get rid of a pulsating issue. I just installed a new $340 TPS and its still there. I checked for air leaks but couldnt find one. I set TPS to 1.006 OHMs and have a single LED lit so It should be set (engine was hot when I set it). This what happens.

1. Start up is normal. High idle ~3500 rpm and graduall drop to aound 2K
2. Warms up and pulsation starts and when I tap the pedal the idle bumps up and stays around 1200. Sometimes no pulsation
3. Turn A/C on in nuetral and it bumps up to 1200 rpm
4. A/C on and in gear pulsations (sometimes no pulsations)

I have installed new coolant sensor and thermosensor too. Timing is dead on. Only thing I havent set is idle screw becuse it was ok around Christmas time.

JoshRX7

iTrader: (5)

I'm thinking vacuum leak or some other idle control component (not the TPS obviously since it's new)... my BAC on my N/A causes my pulsation in that car. I unplugged its electrical connector. Wow, $340 for a new TPS. Mazdatrix? Banzai Racing sold me a good one for $30. Wish I would have seen this thread sooner to save you some money. Also, you might try the Digital Multimeter method for adjusting your TPS... it's outlined on fc3spro.com. Good luck.

Josh

Ronin Rotary

Try cranking the TPS screw a full turn, up (and if it is still surging) and down. Sometimes meters don't always read right.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

$30 for TPS, thats great. Oh well, I was thinking the BAC was good. I thought had unplugged it before but cant remember-this troubleshooting has gone on for sometime so I cant remember all.

I tried the turning the screw up and down too but it just wont go away (pulsating). Pulsation is inconsistent.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

I unplugged the BAC and at first it ran good. After about 3-4 minutes it started the pulsations again. Seems to begin/happen most often when it warms a little and I engage the transmission. ?? Anyone know what could cause that?

I guess I'll just remove the intake/TP and put new gaskets in again. Sure sounds like an air leak

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

I figured out my pulsation-bad clutch switch.

I now have high idle all the time around 1500rpm. Fiddled with the switch to back it in, back it out at different settings but still high idle. Not sure why? Anyone have any ideas?

Dont think its an air leak. Couldnt find one and besides before the clutch swith was replaced at times it ran ok. TPS is new and set to one LED lit. At least that freakin' pulsation is gone!

cncrx7

Does your car have cruise control?...
My car had the same high idle problem that was inconsistant, and I couldn't figure it out until one day I was fiddling around with the C.C. throttle cable and it was in a little bit of a bind and thus the throttle was always a little bit open and idling around 1500-2000rpms. I worked it free and voila...750 rock solid.
Brian