I have an S4 block, HBP on top of large street port, 9.4:1 rotors, RA seals, mazda oem springs, FD oil system, FD stationary gears, e-shaft oil mods, Mazda Racing Pulleys,all necessary mods for a bridgeport turbo setup, Haltech E6X, stock CAS, stock coils, internal 2.5bar Map sensor, all emissions removed, running premix, etc.

Yesterday I was able to get the motor to crank and start after a year and a half of being stored. DAAAAAAAAAMMNN did it ever smoke. Now while my friend is cranking the key, I'm turning the CAS to try and get the motor to start. To get it to start, the CAS has to be turned all the way counterclockwise and I slowly turn it clockwise until the motor roars, smokes like an oil refinery and backfires sound like gun shots.

My freind has to hold the gas at minimum 3000 rpm so it dosent die.

We did a free-air calibration for the wideband LC-1, we loaded a base map for the haltech that we downloaded from claudio RX-7 on the haltech forum.
Now we want the motor to idle so we can check the timing with the timing light. How can we do that if already we're having a hard time keeping the motor alive below 3000 rpm ?

Also the fact that the motor is a bridgeport I know the idle will always be lumpy but I want a good timing to be done so I can drive it. Because I have an appointment on July 19 for a dyno tuning by Ari Yallon and it's a good 45 minute highway drive. I DONT WANT TO PAY A TOWING.

I need advice and suggestions of what to do and what not to do !

 

Hmmm... might be better off in the Haltech forum. Regardless, if you are using the E6X, I am assuming you are using Halwin to interface with it. If so, for starters, you should be using version 1.26. It can be downloaded off the Haltech site.

What you need to do is zero your timing. When you go online with Halwin, choose setup ---> ignition setup. You will now have the choice of "Enable Lock Timing". Set the Lock Timing Angle to -5 degrees. Make sure you have a fresh battery, hook up your timing light to your leading coil, and turn the engine over. You should see your timing light flash near the leading timing mark on your pulley, aligned with the marker on the front cover. At this point, move the cas until the mark lines up with the front cover marker. Timing is now set. At this point, take the timing lock off, and you are ready to start tuning fuel.

Hope this helps.

 

Lock the timing in the haltech programming to -5 ( yellow timing mark on the pulley). It will stay @ -5 regardless of RPM/load. I can't remember off hand which menu the lock timing is in, but I want to say IGN SETUP.

 

yes lock timing is in the ignition setup.

I got all my main, ignition, and trigger setups from the hitman rx7 web site.
But there's no info on the fuel setup and input/output setups, what do I do there ???

Also what do I do in the options menu, I have idle speed control, Injector trims, ignition quick map, closed loop o2,etc.

 

what you do in the menus depends on what you have done in the installation process. Most times you can warm the car up then set the idle and tweak your coolant maps for enrichment when cold.

 

I dont know if this is a big deal. But I dont have stock pulleys I have Mazda racing pulleys and there are no yellow or red dots. I have multiple timing marks in increments of 5 degrees, from 0 - 30 degrees BTC. And 1 extra mark more or less 15 degrees after all those timing marks, I'm assuming it's for the trailing side ? http://www.upgrademotoring.com/perfo...treetpully.htm

Has anyone tried with MR pulleys before, can someone help me out here ?

 

I need to know what are the values that I have to set in the haltech software ?
I am talking ignition values now. The fuel will be dealt with a professional tuner . Right now I just need to know what to do to get my car to start, idle nicely, (no bac valve), and be able to drive it comfortably or semi-comfortably for a good 45 minute drive to the dyno and get it tuned.

How can I average the timing on my pullies when my marks are 0 - 30 degrees BTDC, compared to the mazda manual where it says leading spark is set to 5 degrees ATDC, and trailling spark is 20 degrees ATDC ?

 

It doesn't matter, lock your ignition timing to any of your known timing marks. All you are doing is making sure the ecu timing matches the mechanical timing of the engine. You are just syncing things.

 

Yes, that's exactly what I'm trying to do here. But they dont seem to be syncronizing. What do I do in this case ?

 

If you have marks on the pulley in 5* increments and go from zero to 30* BTDC, then what prevents you from measuring from zero to the five degree mark........then transfering that distance to the other side of the zero mark which would now be the 5* ATDC mark for the Lead timing mark. And do the same for the 20* ATDC mark?

I'm probably missing something here. That's too obvious. By the way, the link you added above isn't useable. Got another link for the pulley?

 

Here's the link: http://www.upgrademotoring.com/perfo...treetpully.htm. Let me know if it works.

If the link doesn't work go to www.upgrademotoring.com click on performance and look for Mazda racing street pulley kit.

 

The first link works fine. I didn't try the second link.

Well, they evidently don't have stock timing marks on that pulley. But it does have zero, five, ten, fifteen, twenty etc BTDC.

Still seems to me all you have to do is get a pair of dividers or a six inch scale and transfer the distance from their zero to five degree mark to the other (left side if looking aft) side of their zero mark for the lead marka and do the same for the trail mark.

Like you said earlier, the stock car timing at idle is -5 Lead and -20 Trail.

Stock series four RX actually have the timing advanced to 5 BTDC for both Lead and Trail during START, then it goes to the -5L a -20T for idle (idle being approx 750-800 rpm).

I dont' know squat about Hal's tech.