drft_180sx

Hi,

I am in a serious panic right now...and havent searched yet, so please dont flame me.

The situation:
This morning the add coolant buzzer has been going off like crazy. I pull over (the temp guage was fine) and there is mor than the usual amount of coolant in the filler bottle thing, but when i open the radiator cap, it's lower than the usual amount. Later in the day on the way back from school, same thing, but i notice that the coolant has some bubbles in it (in the radiator). What could the problem be?

I thought it might be a coolant seal, but then why would the coolant transfer from the radiator to the filler bottle? or is there a radiator -> filler bottle return line that might be clogged up? PLEASE HELP.

i just payed 1200 to put this motor in, i cant afford a blown motor due to a coolant seal. I need help assessing the problem, any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks

Jahan

Mombodogs

First of all, RELAX. Second, after you pulled over, and radiator was low, did you fill it up immediately? Overflow bottle is just that. Third, did you properly blead all the air in your system when putting coolant in the first time after rebuild? 4th, DON'T DRIVE THE CAR UNLESS THE FIRST THREE HAVE BEEN ACCOMPLISHED. 5th, If you have time to post, you have time to search. I've give basics, BASICS, search and more detailed information will guide you further.

PEACE THE DOG

drft_180sx

I didnt refill the radiator, because i couldnt figure out why the overflow bottle was beyond max and wasnt dumping it into the radiator??

Few things i've read since i've posted.

There is a possibilty that the bubbles i saw (which was about 3 air bubbles going from left to right per second) might be from improper radiator filling, meaning it might not have been bled properly? Im going to go search how to do that right now. Thanks for the quick reply mombo. If anyone has any other input or advice though, i will deeply appeciate it!

Thanks

Jahan

Mombodogs

One last thing drft, if I may go one step further. Do not, repeat, do not, even if you are 1000 yards away from your house, drive your car any distance with low coolant. Like the movie Red Dawn, **** in the son of a bitch, if thats a last resort, but don't drive.

Think positive! It's only air. You'll be fine.

PEACE THE DOG

Zachary

Check your radiator cap. If the cap is bad it will let coolent into the overflow tank when the engine heats up, but it wont let it go back into the radiator. You can get a new cap for cheap at an auto parts store.

drft_180sx

Thanks a lot man, that helps to hear that...

I forgot to mention before that the buzzer would only come on when the car was idling, but when i revved the motor/drove the car the buzzer would stop.

Does that mean the level of coolant in the radiator was rising because the car was being revved?

Thanks again

Jahan

Zachary

Thats why the overflow tank is there, as the engine warms up and cools down water is transfered back and forth. Im not saying that you dont have a leak, i'm just offering a solution to a very common problem. You should still check for leaks. Every time you drive the car, check the oil and make shure there is no coolent in it. Most likely its the radiaor cap.

drft_180sx

OK i bleed the system as best as i could using instructions from the forum.

If anyone searches later the intructions can be found here : https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...eding+Radiator

KEYWORDS Radiator Coolant Bleed Bleeding


but i still am wondering why so much of the fluid would trasfer from the radiator to the overflow bottle and not flow back into the radiator? do you guys think i have a clog somewhere?

Jahan

Mombodogs

How new is your thermostat? I got a cheap one at parts store for a quick fix, but if its not new, buy one from the " STEALER". Had similiar situation recently with overflow, and it was thermostat. Only 30 bucks later for me, but they used vasoline. Check that next.

Little things first, its an FC, its only money dude.

PEACE THE DOG

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

air in the system expands and pushes anti-freeze out.it won't refill ..you'll have do it..sort of a give and take system ..i would fill it and let it idle until thermo opens add coolant through the top ..try squeezing the lower hose to try and manipulate the air out..fill... carefully burp(squeeze the top hose(carefull) ,add coolant...seal it and add coolant to the reservoir ..take it around the block..make sure you keep watchin the temp sensor.for irregularities ..air usually works its way out ..and air was causing you to overheat.that's my $.02..

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

oh ya check for leaks!

drft_180sx

appreciate all the help. i will try all that...and i wasnt overheating, or at least not before i caught the problem...

Thanks again

Jahan

drft_180sx

Oh God...same damn problem..

OK heres whats up...

All the coolant keeps going from the radiator/water pump to the overflow bottle. I checked the path between the filler cap by the thermo to the overflow bottle, no clogs. No leaks. In fact all the spilled coolant is from the overflow bottle filling up beyond capacity.

Does anyone know why im having this problem?

Maybe someone can explain how the overflow bottle works? I figured when the pressure increases coolant travels from the filler cap by the thermo via the long tube to the overflow bottle, and when there is negative pressure, via capillary action, coolant is returned to the cooling system (Waterpump/radiator)? If thats the case then what can the problem be? Maybe the cap is busted?

Thanks in advance,

jahan

Icemark

bad radiator pressure cap, or bad motor.

They work very simply

Coolant only travels when warm into the bottle if the coolant pressure exceeds .9 bar

When cool, the vacuum sucks the coolant back in.

drft_180sx

thanks sooo much, thats exactly what i figured...should i only go with a mazda or do you guys think that the aftermarket ones will be fine?

Icemark

For thermostats, pressure caps, and oil filters, I only recommend the Mazda OEM ones.

Proven over and over again, that even using a Stant colder temp thermostat, that the engine runs warmer with less uniform cooling.

Mazda ones (on the other hand) always work and are the correct temp or pressure.