I have a series 4. just had the back rotor rebuilt.
Was running on front cylinder ONLY when the back was gone.
Now i'm having real trouble to ,
get it started, only way (when cold) is to vice grip the fuel line and as it gets running let it off,
Heaps of fuel vapour coming out exhaust if you let it crank.
When hot it won't start at all, it does try but wont run.

However when you get it started it goes real well!!
Just won't idle under about 2000rpm,

now this sounds like a vacum leak to me but i can't find it. Is it becase the seals in the back rotor are new,
I have removed all the emission crap.
But how does the auto choke work,
please can someone help me sort this out??

 

bump
please help asap

 

Were the injectors tested and cleaned when you had them out? Who put the injectors in? They may have touched some dirt to them and stuck one of them open.

The car should start fine once you have warmed it up so it seems like some fuel is getting in there somehow.

The only fuel trick I know on these cars is when they are cold they injecto more fuel so if you turn them on and then off it will flood the car.

Once it is running and idling take some WD-40 or carb cleaner and spray around the vacuum lines. If the idle goes up you have found a leak. Just be careful where you spray that stuff.

 

car is flooding, your injectors are toast

 

who rebuilt it? why would they only do one side ??...

 

good question

 

The back rotors spat the apex seals so i went for a quick fix,
I put the injectors in and noticed they sort off fell into there holes!!
Maybe those small seals need replacing??
When i took out the rats nest i plug everything back into the manifold on the nearest fitting...
Things like the BOV, Boost sensor, that diaphram thing (might be the cold start choke)?? and the fuel reg do these have to go to there own fitting or will any do??
I think this might be the problem??

 

bump

 

Bump
Please help.
what do i do to sort the injectors out??

 

Ok took off manifold and recheck again.
Made sure no leaks were present.
Blocked up the bleed thing that runs down the exhaust and that bought the idle down, is it meant to be blocked??

Took both sets of injectors out and checked them no leaks, however the stream out of the primarys is more like a squirt of fuel than a fine atomised spray???
is this right....

There was a crack in the inlet pipe for the turbo so i siloconed it and wraped it in tape....

It is still doing the exact same thing!!!!
Takes alot of cranking to start cold with the fuel blocked by a set of vice grips

And won't start when hot!!!!


HELP!!!!!!!!!!!

 

im surprised to one has told this fellow rex owner the quik fix too all his problems. The fuel cut-off switch, DER??? hot-start is a common problem among tii's. also probably need new set of primaries if its squirting/dripping.

 

I'
m cutting the fuel off by vice griping the line.
However i don't think this is the problem.
Tow started it about 1/2 hour ago and it foul plugs got it running on 2, there is no boost gauge and it feels like it keeps on spooling, VERY FAST....
Still won't idle
what should the compression measure on my gauge
???

PS it's started beeping at me 3 times pause then 3 again,
what does this mean. it's a beep not a buzz

 

Well, if you're using new apex seals, it's going to be hard starting. And since you're injector is just pissing fuel rather than spraying, that's not helping any. You're going to want the idle up around 1,000-1,500rpm for a while, and don't boost either. Check out http://www.rotaryresurrection.com about starting rebuilds and breaking them in, even though you've only got one new set of seals on one rotor, it's still going to apply. Btw, get your injectors cleaned or install a fuel cut switch, you're going to fry your pump just crimping the line.