Help with possibly overfueling?
#1
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Help with possibly overfueling?
Ok guys, i have a 1993 FD Touring thats stock minus the Full HKS exhaust, and the upgraded silicon lines / viton valves.
The symptoms are, it falls on its face when entering 2+psi of boost and backfires heavily.
When the car starts, it smells heavily of fuel and will occasionally puff out a black cloud.
Idles perfect, minus a little popping (backfire), drives fine out of boost.
Parts replaced:
Silicon lines / check valves
Radiator / thermostat / hoses
Fuel Pulse Dampener
Injectors flowed/balanced and 0-rings replaced (rails not leaking)
Fuel Pump and Filter (40psi at idle)
MAP sensor/boost sensor
Spark plugs / wires (checked coils, ohm'd out ok)
Added grounds and cleaned originals
New battery
Alternator voltage is 13.9V at idle loads on.
Only code is a Code 51 for the opening circuit relay however i've ohm'd out the resistor pack and it checked out ok and the fuel pump DOES get 12v when I short out the F/p to GND on the service connector.
Does anyone have any ideas on what coudl cause it to overfuel like this?
Can an ECU cause this type of problem and is it common? I dont believe the ECU is in limp mode due to this code as it will REV past 4k no problem all the way to redline. I've tried resetting the ECU many times and the code will not clear.
Can an alternator with good voltage just have low amperage output and cause ignition problems (not enough power to coils to run properly/ get good spark?)
And is there a seperate Fuel Pressure Regulator that can do out ?
Any ideas are welcome!
The symptoms are, it falls on its face when entering 2+psi of boost and backfires heavily.
When the car starts, it smells heavily of fuel and will occasionally puff out a black cloud.
Idles perfect, minus a little popping (backfire), drives fine out of boost.
Parts replaced:
Silicon lines / check valves
Radiator / thermostat / hoses
Fuel Pulse Dampener
Injectors flowed/balanced and 0-rings replaced (rails not leaking)
Fuel Pump and Filter (40psi at idle)
MAP sensor/boost sensor
Spark plugs / wires (checked coils, ohm'd out ok)
Added grounds and cleaned originals
New battery
Alternator voltage is 13.9V at idle loads on.
Only code is a Code 51 for the opening circuit relay however i've ohm'd out the resistor pack and it checked out ok and the fuel pump DOES get 12v when I short out the F/p to GND on the service connector.
Does anyone have any ideas on what coudl cause it to overfuel like this?
Can an ECU cause this type of problem and is it common? I dont believe the ECU is in limp mode due to this code as it will REV past 4k no problem all the way to redline. I've tried resetting the ECU many times and the code will not clear.
Can an alternator with good voltage just have low amperage output and cause ignition problems (not enough power to coils to run properly/ get good spark?)
And is there a seperate Fuel Pressure Regulator that can do out ?
Any ideas are welcome!
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Update:
I pulled the alternator praying it was dead, yeah well it passed the load test we put on it at work booo
Ideas?
I've pulled the relays for the Fuel circuit, both click , however is there a certain resistance requirement for the switch side?
I pulled the alternator praying it was dead, yeah well it passed the load test we put on it at work booo
Ideas?
I've pulled the relays for the Fuel circuit, both click , however is there a certain resistance requirement for the switch side?
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Update:
Removed both Fuel Relays, applied vB to the A-B terminals and measured 0-0.1 ohm's resistance on the switch side... pass in my books, removed vB and instantaneous inifinite resistance....pass.
Where can i find information regarding checking the entire circuit properly? Its not in the F section 108-110 obviously..
I really want to clear that code before I move on.
I have a CALI ECU i can try but im sure that will just throw more codes seeing as its a non-cali car
Removed both Fuel Relays, applied vB to the A-B terminals and measured 0-0.1 ohm's resistance on the switch side... pass in my books, removed vB and instantaneous inifinite resistance....pass.
Where can i find information regarding checking the entire circuit properly? Its not in the F section 108-110 obviously..
I really want to clear that code before I move on.
I have a CALI ECU i can try but im sure that will just throw more codes seeing as its a non-cali car
#5
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It's always good when you have other ECUs available. Try the other one to see if it comes up with the same code, in addition to the other ones you expect to see. You might want to check your fuel injector plugs to make sure you don't have them switched and confirm that the replacement MAP sensor is within spec. Give the entire rat's nest a once over. A tad unlrelated to your symptoms, but important: if you just did a hose job, make sure you didn't throw out the pills with the old hoses. Check your fuel hoses and make sure you're feeding the rails properly for the pressure regulator to do its job correctly.
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I've confirmed the injector plugs aren't switched, i'll give the ECU a try today. Map sensor voltage is within spec. Adjsuted the TPS as it was a tad bit off.
Im going to put the CALI ECU in today and see if their are code differences.
I did the hose job but DID NOT do the hoses on the actuators (where the pills are right?) I need to check all those hoses still.
Fuel lines aren't leaking and getting 40psi.
I did note that the vehicle still has a CAT and i wonder if it could be drastically clogged after running so rich with the TPS so far off
Im going to put the CALI ECU in today and see if their are code differences.
I did the hose job but DID NOT do the hoses on the actuators (where the pills are right?) I need to check all those hoses still.
Fuel lines aren't leaking and getting 40psi.
I did note that the vehicle still has a CAT and i wonder if it could be drastically clogged after running so rich with the TPS so far off
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Update:
Pulled off cat to see if it was clogged, no difference, reinstalled exhaust system.
I found someone local with an EGI ECU (cali) and threw it in and my code 51 disappeared and the electric fans now kick on properly with car off?
I hope my ecu was fried as that woudl be awesome lol.
Has anyone else encountered a 'fried' ecu that woudl still run the car????
Pulled off cat to see if it was clogged, no difference, reinstalled exhaust system.
I found someone local with an EGI ECU (cali) and threw it in and my code 51 disappeared and the electric fans now kick on properly with car off?
I hope my ecu was fried as that woudl be awesome lol.
Has anyone else encountered a 'fried' ecu that woudl still run the car????
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