Need help with Diag. Tool...
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Need help with Diag. Tool...
Ok in the FSM, to adjust TPS and Idle Mixture and such, there is a small tool shown to be used that I need to make. It is a simple 2 LED apparatus that plugs into something *that i can't make out in the pic of FSM..* and will either illuminate one at a time, or both, or none, to indicate.
Talked to Rotary Performance of Dallas (garland actually but everyone knows where dallas is...) and they said there was a set of instructions to make this tool in the FSM.
Buuuut... I cannot find it? anyone know the page for that? Or just able to tell me how to make the tool and where EXACTLY it plugs into? I have 2 LEDS, Wire, Soldering Iron, and Flux Solder. Just needa know how to put it together Any help usefull!!!
1987 Sport Model N/A Rx7 (White with NO interior
Talked to Rotary Performance of Dallas (garland actually but everyone knows where dallas is...) and they said there was a set of instructions to make this tool in the FSM.
Buuuut... I cannot find it? anyone know the page for that? Or just able to tell me how to make the tool and where EXACTLY it plugs into? I have 2 LEDS, Wire, Soldering Iron, and Flux Solder. Just needa know how to put it together Any help usefull!!!
1987 Sport Model N/A Rx7 (White with NO interior
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Hmm adjusting the tps most people do with a ohm meter measure resistance i think it the black wire and green? not to sure should be about 1000 ohms at idle when its off the cold idle cam. And about 5000 at wot. Its in the FSM for exact specs. The LED if you talking about checking codes? well if so look here http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...Signal%20Table.
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Hmmm. Most smart people use a volt meter and set the output to one (1vdc) (some humor here i.e.ohms vs one vdc). Output is on the green/red wire on the tps plug itself and the plug must be connected and the engine fully HOT. The TPS plug is not the same thing as the TPS check connector. IF using the LED tool do what is described below using the TPS green Check Connector:
As far as the LED'S go, strip the ends of the red wire on the two led's and install those two wires on a spade connector. Then install a spade connector on EACH of the other two wires. Three spade connectors total , used for four wires.
The green three socket TPS check connector has one wire that is black/white. That is the power for your LED tester and you put the spade with the two red wires in that socket.
One of the other two sockets on the Check Connector, has a Blue/Yellow wire which relates to the Relief solenoids signal from the ECU and the third wire in that connector is Blue/Red which relates to the switching solenoids signal from the ECU. It matters not which hole those other two LED wires go into.
That LED tester can be used to monitor fault codes on the green, six socket check connector OR used to monitor if the ECU has gone into Closed Loop or not, which verifys if the 02 sensor is working or not.
That URL in the above post mentions those other functions of the LED tester.
As far as the LED'S go, strip the ends of the red wire on the two led's and install those two wires on a spade connector. Then install a spade connector on EACH of the other two wires. Three spade connectors total , used for four wires.
The green three socket TPS check connector has one wire that is black/white. That is the power for your LED tester and you put the spade with the two red wires in that socket.
One of the other two sockets on the Check Connector, has a Blue/Yellow wire which relates to the Relief solenoids signal from the ECU and the third wire in that connector is Blue/Red which relates to the switching solenoids signal from the ECU. It matters not which hole those other two LED wires go into.
That LED tester can be used to monitor fault codes on the green, six socket check connector OR used to monitor if the ECU has gone into Closed Loop or not, which verifys if the 02 sensor is working or not.
That URL in the above post mentions those other functions of the LED tester.
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