Need Help Asap
#1
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Need Help Asap
ok i've had my first rx7 for 6 weeks and the clutch went out.
a friend gave me a used clutch well actually 3 of them.
I wanna get this car running, can anybody show me how to replace the clutch, any how-to sites or anything.
i also have an oil leak to. what can i check for and stop it from leaking.
thanks i need help asap.
a friend gave me a used clutch well actually 3 of them.
I wanna get this car running, can anybody show me how to replace the clutch, any how-to sites or anything.
i also have an oil leak to. what can i check for and stop it from leaking.
thanks i need help asap.
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The clutch was old and worn out, it won't engage till it was at 5k RPM's. I believe the oil is leaking from below where you put the oil into, I would know, I own the car he's talking about.
Also, battery is dead, car is turning over, do you think the car is flooded from sitting to long or some ****, or is it cause the starter isn't receiving enough power to start?
Also, battery is dead, car is turning over, do you think the car is flooded from sitting to long or some ****, or is it cause the starter isn't receiving enough power to start?
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"Also, battery is dead, car is turning over, do you think the car is flooded from sitting to long or some ****, or is it cause the starter isn't receiving enough power to start?"
I just need a quick answer to this one.
Btw, we have it jumped by another car while we start it. Car receives power, lights flip, buzzers on, ect.
I just need a quick answer to this one.
Btw, we have it jumped by another car while we start it. Car receives power, lights flip, buzzers on, ect.
#6
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the clutch just had alot of miles on it, and finally went out.
just add the coolant buzzer sound, and thats bout it.
and the oil leak is right under where you put oil in.
but right now the car wont start. its prob flooded.
just add the coolant buzzer sound, and thats bout it.
and the oil leak is right under where you put oil in.
but right now the car wont start. its prob flooded.
#7
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Sounds flooded.
I'm not sure if there is a DIY for Clutch Change, you will need to get a clutch alignment tool.
Basically
1. Jack car up, Remove Neg Cable
1.1 Remove Slave Clyinder, and electrical connections from trans to Firewall
2. Remove Exhaust up to manifold (you can leave mufflers on)
3. Remove Exhaust Sheild if it covers the transmission
4. Remove Driveshaft
5. Remove Shifter
6. Remove Starter
6.6 There are some wires to disconnect by trans, and the reverse lights do not have a connection. You can snip them and resolder later.
7. Remove 5 Trans to Engine Bolts (or one nut on the top if applicable)
8. Take off Tramsmission Mount to Car bolts & Support
9. Remove Trans, Wiggle if needed, you may need a crowbar.
10. Remove Bolts to Pressure Plate, Remove Clutch.
At this point you have a bunch of options. If you are looking for cheap.
11. Use clutch alignment tool to put clutch on
12. Put on PP
13. Reverse steps 1-10 logically
If you can afford a bit of money for longevity of clutch/motor/trans.
Replace Pilot bearing w/Seal
Replace Throw Out Bearing if you need it.
Replace Transmission Rear Main Seal.
Replace Engine Rear Main Seal.
As far as the oil leak, is it leaking at the bottom of the filler neck?
I'm not sure if there is a DIY for Clutch Change, you will need to get a clutch alignment tool.
Basically
1. Jack car up, Remove Neg Cable
1.1 Remove Slave Clyinder, and electrical connections from trans to Firewall
2. Remove Exhaust up to manifold (you can leave mufflers on)
3. Remove Exhaust Sheild if it covers the transmission
4. Remove Driveshaft
5. Remove Shifter
6. Remove Starter
6.6 There are some wires to disconnect by trans, and the reverse lights do not have a connection. You can snip them and resolder later.
7. Remove 5 Trans to Engine Bolts (or one nut on the top if applicable)
8. Take off Tramsmission Mount to Car bolts & Support
9. Remove Trans, Wiggle if needed, you may need a crowbar.
10. Remove Bolts to Pressure Plate, Remove Clutch.
At this point you have a bunch of options. If you are looking for cheap.
11. Use clutch alignment tool to put clutch on
12. Put on PP
13. Reverse steps 1-10 logically
If you can afford a bit of money for longevity of clutch/motor/trans.
Replace Pilot bearing w/Seal
Replace Throw Out Bearing if you need it.
Replace Transmission Rear Main Seal.
Replace Engine Rear Main Seal.
As far as the oil leak, is it leaking at the bottom of the filler neck?
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the Best advice that I can give you..as I been there Done that..Replace the Throw out and Pilot bearing,while you are replacing the clutch..there is NO words that explain the Feeling that you get when you get that New Clutch in and hear GRRR ...whirrr!..Crap!..the Throw out is ****.and you have to drop the trans ALL OVER AGAIN!..If you want to take it to a shop..sure go ahead..it's your Nickel and your Car..But one thing,you won't ever get to know the Mechanics of the car if someone else is always Working on it..Get Dirty..Afterall,you may get stranded in Butt-Screwed Idaho and not have the Priveledge of Calling up JOE WRENCH to come and save you..Good luck,and welcome to the Last days of your Money(Rotary owner).
#11
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the Best advice that I can give you..as I been there Done that..Replace the Throw out and Pilot bearing,while you are replacing the clutch..there is NO words that explain the Feeling that you get when you get that New Clutch in and hear GRRR ...whirrr!..Crap!..the Throw out is ****.and you have to drop the trans ALL OVER AGAIN!..If you want to take it to a shop..sure go ahead..it's your Nickel and your Car..But one thing,you won't ever get to know the Mechanics of the car if someone else is always Working on it..Get Dirty..Afterall,you may get stranded in Butt-Screwed Idaho and not have the Priveledge of Calling up JOE WRENCH to come and save you..Good luck,and welcome to the Last days of your Money(Rotary owner).
#12
NASA-MW ST4
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For a 86-88 N/A: http://www.clutchmasters.com/shop/?p...86&ToYear=1988
For a 89-91 N/A:
http://www.clutchmasters.com/shop/?p...89&ToYear=1992
Pilot Bearing Seal:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=11-404A-1881
For the oil leak, I am no expert. But by reasoning I guess its the Sealing Washer by the Oil Filler Neck.
Main Mazdatrix page: http://www.mazdatrix.com/b6.htm
To buy page: http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=10-1601-9954
#13
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If the oil leak can be described as leaking from a seam b/t the intermediate housing and the rotor housing..........tough. It can only be fixed by a MAJOR overhaul.
See the attached jpg. The red lines point to a Seam on each side of the intermediate housing. IF the oil is leaking from that seam, then a o'ring for the oil passage b/t the housings is cooked and is unfixable unless the engine is overhauled. The actual leak would be closer to one of the top red lines where the oil passage b/t housings is located.
FYI....That engine is not mine. Jpg stolen from the forum.
EDIT: Engine pictures stolen from Pineapple Racing.
See the attached jpg. The red lines point to a Seam on each side of the intermediate housing. IF the oil is leaking from that seam, then a o'ring for the oil passage b/t the housings is cooked and is unfixable unless the engine is overhauled. The actual leak would be closer to one of the top red lines where the oil passage b/t housings is located.
FYI....That engine is not mine. Jpg stolen from the forum.
EDIT: Engine pictures stolen from Pineapple Racing.
Last edited by HAILERS; 01-28-08 at 03:48 AM.