2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
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Old 08-03-02, 02:27 AM
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Need Help??

I just bought a 87 Turbo II and the first day I had it, it revved perfect and pulled to redline. The second day I took it for a spin and tried to redline it and boost kicks in and starts pulling hard and then around 3500 rpms the engine feels like it doesnt pull or go anywhere. I changed the spark plugs, oil change, and flushed the cooland and refilled it. Anyone have any suggestions on what I should try next? Im curious why it isnt pulling hard like it did the first day? How do I know if I have a FCD? Thanks.
Old 08-03-02, 02:40 AM
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How is the idle?

If you have an FCD, normally it would be near your boost sensor, its going to be a small circuit and most of the time it does not look stock. (Boost sensor is plastic, small, near your mass air flow sensor and it has one vacuum line going to it.) The FCD would normally not kick you off at 3500rpm unless you are boosting very high. Is it only when the boost gauge goes up near 40 that it kicks out? If so then you probably dont have a FCD or its not working.

Or someone may have put it near the ECU, which would consist of some wires hacked into near the ECU plug.

There is a site, if you are handy with soldering that will show you how to make your own FCD, I made my own and it works very good. Its probably the best mod I have done to my TII.

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/fcd/diy_fcd.htm

Good luck, let me know if you have more ???

Thanks
TRU
Old 08-03-02, 02:50 AM
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Well I asked the guy when I purchased it if it had a FCD and he kinda stuttered then told me that its right near the maf sensor and pointed to it. I dont know what one looks like so I dont know if it is one. As far as the idle is it dies sometimes on its own. But sometimes, after it warms up its ok. He also told me about some sort of switch he put on under the dash. He told me that if I had problems starting it, to push it and crank the motor and then it will slowly start and then shut off the switch and then give it some gas to keep the rpms up and keep it running. And as far as the boost guage, it never really reads 40 all the way but it happens in every gear at about 3500.
Old 08-03-02, 02:56 AM
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Hmm.. well on the website I posted, there is a way to check the operation of the FCD. The idle and dying on its own, that kind of leads me to think that he either screwed up the boost sensor or there is a loose vacuum line (either BOV vacuum line or boost sensor). Go near your boost sensor and put your finger around the vacuum lines and see if there is air escaping anywhere. In my car those are notorious for leaking and causing a my car to run really rough and acting as if though it will die. If there is no leak, then take some pictures of what you have so far so I can see what exactly the geniuous that sold you the car did to it.

From what you say with the switches, that does not sound very healthy at all.

Wish I could help more but I cant see what we have to work with.
Old 08-03-02, 03:09 AM
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Thanks alot man. I will definately take some pictures and send them to you to see if you can help me out. If I dont put them on the site I will pm you and send some pics.
Old 08-03-02, 07:49 AM
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That switch he's got wired up under your dash sounds like a fuel pump switch. Sometimes our cars like to flood and then they get to be a bitch to start. Fixes are pulling the fuel pump fuse or hooking up a switch that turns off the fuel pump while you turn the car over to unflood it. Don't have any ideas on your boost problem, sorry.
Old 08-05-02, 01:46 AM
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Here is the T connector I was talking about.

Old 08-05-02, 01:47 AM
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Pic 2 of T connector





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