I just got threw rebuilding my rotary for the first time w/rotary. I put the engine back in and checked everything. I tried starting but timing was off. I posted a thread then got help finding timing marks on main pulley. I have tried everything I can think of. I also have an FD fuel pump. The engine is getting spark, and a lot of fuel. It turns fastly like its flooded but catches every now and then. I took all the intake mainfolds to check if an vacuum lines were unhooked but the ween't. I noticed that old gasket was still left on the manifolds so I cleaned them with my dremmel. Is there a run in oil I should use to get it started? I checked the compression and its reading equally between both rotors. Is there anything I should do differently??? Please help, Thanks in advance,

Adam

 

What PSI was the compression? And are you sure you have even pulses between the front and rear rotor? A good way to check if you've got all the pulses, is to turn the front pulley by hand with the plugs out (car OFF obviously), each half a turn you should hit a compression stroke and hear the compression out of the plug hole, and it should alternate between front and back every half turn, for a total of 3 revolutions of the crank pulley to hit all the faces of the rotor

 

IT read 30 psi then 60 then 30 psi on each revolution on both rotors. They read the exact same. My gauge is really old so I'm not sure if accurate but consistant.

 

30psi and 60 psi seems really low but I couldn't keep my thumb over the holes without it being blown off

 

Yikes, is there any way you can test the compression tester? Because if you're getting 60/30/30, you're going to have a REAL hard time getting it to start short of pushing it, but that is REALLY low, that almost sounds like there's some issues with the side seal clearances, so I'd definatlly see if you can figure out the gauge first and double check.

 

I'm about to sayscrew it but I have about $5500 in it. If not a little more. It seems like a **** load of compression but way too mush fuel. but I could be wrong. I'll get a new gauge tomarrow.

 

Blocking oof the EGR wouldn't make that big of a deal should it? I didn't think so but I'm about out of ideas.

 

Nope, unless the block off is leaking. An FD pump wouldn't really cause it to crank fast and not start, it'd make it want to flood a little easier, but that's about it. Your next best bet is to push start it, but a proper compression test would be the place to start.

 

FOr the block off I used ducting sheet metal and RTV. If it leaks would that make it not start?

 

I'll check comprssion and maybe put factory fuel pump in.

 

Ducting sheet metal? That stuffs WAY too thin, you should be using ~3mm or so at least.

 

YOu think thats my problem?

 

It's possible, that stuff is so thin that it deforms and can flex

 

Thanks. I'll check the compression w/new gauge and post results tomarrow.

 

Your problem is that there is too much fuel.

KILL the fuel pump by pulling its plug off if you don't have a *fuel pump kill switch*.

Buy a can of starter fluid. Spray into the filter for about one to two seconds.

Go start the engine. It'll run for a couple of seconds max. Do this a couple of times.

The next time have someone couple the fuel pump plug when the engine starts.

A worse case scenario is that you'll have to inject some common engine oil into the sparkplug holes prior to doing the above steps to help make some compression......which your lacking right now.

 

I was just about to put some SAE 40 to insure compression

 

I'll also put factory fuel pump in

 

here is what i do to some rebuilds but try it at your own risk since fuel lines can be old and brittle and this method may damage them but it has worked like a charm for me getting rebuilds started even with very low starting compression.

have an assistand crank the engine while you pinch the fuel line coming off the fuel filter to the fuel rail, you want to block fuel flow while cranking until the engine catches and starts running then you have to feather the fuel flow until the engine can stay running with normal fuel pressure, usually holding the idle at 2k helps also. you can also use vice grips to pinch the fuel line but it is a good idea to replace the fuel line after using this method.

usually the problem is the corner seal rubber plugs are trimmed too long and hold the corner seals in causing excessive blowby and resulting low compression, getting the engine run in for the first few minutes solves this issue but can be a real bitch to get over that hump.

i hope this solves your problem, if it doesn't you probably have other issues like improperly set CAS, spark plug wires mixed up, sensors unplugged, etc...

good luck

 

Yesterday I put SAE 40 oil into the plug holes. I sqarted starting fuel into the intake. I also switched back to factory na FC fuel pump. I put new o-rings into the injectors to stop fuel leak. while putting oil in the second time, I was using a vacuum hole attached to a oiling can i pushed the hose too far into the plug hole and cut a small piece in. this almost caused me to total the car w/hammer. Things have not been going very well for me and I haven't had my bad *** rx going for 1/4 of my senior year now, i'm getting pissed. But when It was good to turn over, It almost started about 3-4 times. I know i'm close and hope to find the hose.

 

I already took the exaust manifold off so today I will use a flsh light and hemostats to remove the foreign object. then she'll be good to try again. I'll keep you all updated. Thanks for all the friendly advice!!!

 

Still haven't got he vacuum hose out but have a pretty good idea where its at. I'll get it tomarrow.

 

Today I got tired of trying to get the hose out, so in 2 1/2 hours I pulled the engine. I tor the engine apart and removed it. I was looking at the corner seal (no the little apex on) and it was stuck into the little round hole on the rotor. The rest were spring loaded, it was fixed flush with the rotor. Could this be why i have very little compression? Also the side seals were sprung out on one end and flush with the rotor on the other. Is this normal?

 

Christ!
You went from having your timing off to tearing down the entire engine???


-Ted