Need electrical help!
06-05-04, 02:52 PM
#1
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Need electrical help!
I went to rewire the fuel pump in my car. I did an S4 TII swap into an S4 N/A. The little heat sink looking thing, I found out dioes not exist in the N/A. How/where do these 6 wires go to. I need to rewire everything that's associated with this now. I know that, but I need to finish this rewire before I get my caron the road.
Pic:
Pic:
06-05-04, 04:16 PM
#2
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I would just forget about it....
run a power wire from battery to rear. use a relay off the stock wire to turn on and off the new wire. and just run constant 12v to the pump.
run a power wire from battery to rear. use a relay off the stock wire to turn on and off the new wire. and just run constant 12v to the pump.
06-05-04, 04:37 PM
#3
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You could leave the fuel pump as is (stock). I did this for a year on a similar conversion.....monitored a wide band and never ever, ever, ever saw a lean condition.
But that's not what you asked. You need to run TWO wires from the front to the rear.
One wire from the engine fuse box to the rear location. It should have a 15amp inline fuse located near the fuse box. Connect the wire at the fuse box to the 10mm size bolt that feeds the fuse box from the battery. Its the bolt on the front of the fuse box. You have to lift a flap to see this bolt. Disconnect the battery before doing so....or feel lucky and remove it. Whichever.
The second wire is from the ECU to the rear. It comes from pin 3D. You must have a N332 Turbo ECU to do this. If you have a Non-turbo ECU....stop right here and don't procede further. Can't be done right without the turbo ECU.
Go to RadioShack a buy a Automobile Relay. You'll need it.
The new RS relay: It has a coil that needs to be pulled in when the key is to ON . So make a ground wire for the new RS relay. Put a ring terminal on the other end and attach it to any of the several 10mm socket size bolts nearby. The new devices are located near where the jack goes. Actually mine is located on the left rear tail light attach bolt.
For the 12v power to pull the RS relay in you need to go to the original fuel pump relay on the back of the left rear strut tower and cut the BLUE wire on the chassis side of that connector. Cut it about four inches or more back from the plug. Splice a wire from the Blue wire to the RS relays coil input.
Now the RS relay has a ground and 12v for power. Yeah team.
Now the RS relay needs to have that new wire from the fuse box attached to the output of the RS relay. I use spade male and female connectors. The relay you get from RS should have spade connectors. Don't get the one with screw attachment.
I'll stop here. I have a question that matters. In your picture you show the Resitor/Relay package with one connector. Do you have the connector that attached to that connector???????
I don't think I'll go any further with this until you say you have a Turbo ECU. No sense wasting my time and yours. Need an answer to the above questions.
But that's not what you asked. You need to run TWO wires from the front to the rear.
One wire from the engine fuse box to the rear location. It should have a 15amp inline fuse located near the fuse box. Connect the wire at the fuse box to the 10mm size bolt that feeds the fuse box from the battery. Its the bolt on the front of the fuse box. You have to lift a flap to see this bolt. Disconnect the battery before doing so....or feel lucky and remove it. Whichever.
The second wire is from the ECU to the rear. It comes from pin 3D. You must have a N332 Turbo ECU to do this. If you have a Non-turbo ECU....stop right here and don't procede further. Can't be done right without the turbo ECU.
Go to RadioShack a buy a Automobile Relay. You'll need it.
The new RS relay: It has a coil that needs to be pulled in when the key is to ON . So make a ground wire for the new RS relay. Put a ring terminal on the other end and attach it to any of the several 10mm socket size bolts nearby. The new devices are located near where the jack goes. Actually mine is located on the left rear tail light attach bolt.
For the 12v power to pull the RS relay in you need to go to the original fuel pump relay on the back of the left rear strut tower and cut the BLUE wire on the chassis side of that connector. Cut it about four inches or more back from the plug. Splice a wire from the Blue wire to the RS relays coil input.
Now the RS relay has a ground and 12v for power. Yeah team.
Now the RS relay needs to have that new wire from the fuse box attached to the output of the RS relay. I use spade male and female connectors. The relay you get from RS should have spade connectors. Don't get the one with screw attachment.
I'll stop here. I have a question that matters. In your picture you show the Resitor/Relay package with one connector. Do you have the connector that attached to that connector???????
I don't think I'll go any further with this until you say you have a Turbo ECU. No sense wasting my time and yours. Need an answer to the above questions.
Last edited by HAILERS; 06-05-04 at 04:44 PM.
06-05-04, 05:19 PM
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Yes, I do have a turbo ECU, it came with the front clip. The resistor relay fromt he TII has the plug still connected to the other clip. Not my car. So, I have the clip, juyst not attached to my chassis harness. Thanks for all help. Someone should vote Hailers electrical guru of the year.
06-05-04, 06:02 PM
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Ummm, does that mean that you can get the other half of that electrical plug off the other clip????
There's two ways to describe how to do the install of the resistor/relay in the back of the car. If you have the other half of the plug....theres one way of describing how things get connected. If you don't have that half of the plug to attach to the half in the picture...theres another way of describing the method. You have to couple a few wires together and I have to describe the wire colors. The colors are different on each side of the plug.
Ain't no guru. My parent got married.
Right now you need to buy a relay from RS and run the two wires. One from the engine fuse assy and another from the pin 3D on the small ECU plug. For that ECU plug I used a single strand small gauge wire. I extracted the wire from pin 3D and soldered that small single strand wire to the *neck* of the socket and reinserted it in the plug.
Ain't no guru. My parent got married.
There's two ways to describe how to do the install of the resistor/relay in the back of the car. If you have the other half of the plug....theres one way of describing how things get connected. If you don't have that half of the plug to attach to the half in the picture...theres another way of describing the method. You have to couple a few wires together and I have to describe the wire colors. The colors are different on each side of the plug.
Ain't no guru. My parent got married.
Right now you need to buy a relay from RS and run the two wires. One from the engine fuse assy and another from the pin 3D on the small ECU plug. For that ECU plug I used a single strand small gauge wire. I extracted the wire from pin 3D and soldered that small single strand wire to the *neck* of the socket and reinserted it in the plug.
Ain't no guru. My parent got married.
06-05-04, 06:24 PM
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Yes, I have the other half of the clip, but it's still connected to the other car. Than can be easily removed. I already bought the relay from RS, it has 3 blades coming off of it. I ran a 12 gauge wire going towards the battery with a 15 amp fuse about 5 inches from the end of the wire. I also ran speaker wires to the AFM area. So, the 2 wires are pretty much run. And, sorry, on the small clip, which pin is 3D? I can't pull up the FSM for some reason. Also, on 3D, could I use a butt connector about an inch or so back from the plug?(I'm not too good at soldering, and this way I know it'll be connected well) Thanks again for all the help.
06-05-04, 07:44 PM
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Glad you said something. The pin 3D, if your using a non turbo harness, NEEDS to be cut about three or so inches from the ECU. Splice in your new wire to the three or so inch piece that is going to the ECU and cap off the rest of the original wire that went to 3D. You have to do this on a non turbo harness because there is a ground on that BR wire all the time on a non turbo.
If your using a turbo harness, just splice into the BR wire and leave all of the original wire in you splice.
3D is on the smallest plug. It is the BR or black/red wire on the bottom row. Second wire from the right
If your using a turbo harness, just splice into the BR wire and leave all of the original wire in you splice.
3D is on the smallest plug. It is the BR or black/red wire on the bottom row. Second wire from the right
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06-05-04, 07:48 PM
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OOOps. I can't deal with your three blade RS relay. Sorry about that. It's gotta be a four blade because I don't know how that one you have works. Can't see it, touch it, meter it, ain't got no diagram of it.
Here's a lousy jpg that might help. I'll explain later. http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=30379
Here's a lousy jpg that might help. I'll explain later. http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=30379
06-05-04, 08:12 PM
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The connector the WAS NOT in your picture:.....You should cut it off with at least eight or so inches of wire left on it.
Go to the fuel pump plug. The chassis half of that plug, not the half attached to the fuel pump harness, cut the Blue wire about three or four inches from the connector.
Take the two BLUE wires on the plug you just got off the clip, and join them together with the BLUE wire that is still in the back half of the fuel pump connector.
Take the Green/Red wire on the clip plug (let's call that half the Clip Plug from now on) and splice it to the new wire from pin 3D of the ECU.
Looking into the Clip Plug that you are getting off the clip, looking at the mating side, not the wire side....there is from the left to the right, a Blue/Red, a Black/White and another Blue/Red. The Blue/Red on the left and the Black/White need to be spliced together along with the other part of the Blue wire that was cut in the paragraph above AND a new wire that will go to the RS relay. That's four wires all spliced together.
There's one Blue/Red wire that we have not touched yet. It should be the Blue/Red wire on the top row, far right, of the Clip Plug. Run that wire to the output of the RS relay.
The above should have accounted for all six of the wires on the Clip Plug.
The new 12v wire run from the front of the car should go to the input of the RS relay.
I think I'll draw another jpg that can be read/seen. Later
Go to the fuel pump plug. The chassis half of that plug, not the half attached to the fuel pump harness, cut the Blue wire about three or four inches from the connector.
Take the two BLUE wires on the plug you just got off the clip, and join them together with the BLUE wire that is still in the back half of the fuel pump connector.
Take the Green/Red wire on the clip plug (let's call that half the Clip Plug from now on) and splice it to the new wire from pin 3D of the ECU.
Looking into the Clip Plug that you are getting off the clip, looking at the mating side, not the wire side....there is from the left to the right, a Blue/Red, a Black/White and another Blue/Red. The Blue/Red on the left and the Black/White need to be spliced together along with the other part of the Blue wire that was cut in the paragraph above AND a new wire that will go to the RS relay. That's four wires all spliced together.
There's one Blue/Red wire that we have not touched yet. It should be the Blue/Red wire on the top row, far right, of the Clip Plug. Run that wire to the output of the RS relay.
The above should have accounted for all six of the wires on the Clip Plug.
The new 12v wire run from the front of the car should go to the input of the RS relay.
I think I'll draw another jpg that can be read/seen. Later
06-05-04, 08:39 PM
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This is a little better: http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=30382
Take one wire at a time.
About that relay......I'll give you the number of it if I can find it. Probably tomorrow since I chunked it.
EDIT; In the jpg the NEW 12 WIRE is the NEW 12VOLT wire from the front of the car.
The item called RS is the RADIO SHACK RELAY.....four poster. The gnd is the ground for its coil and the wire across from it called NEW is the power for its coil to pull it in.
Take one wire at a time.
About that relay......I'll give you the number of it if I can find it. Probably tomorrow since I chunked it.
EDIT; In the jpg the NEW 12 WIRE is the NEW 12VOLT wire from the front of the car.
The item called RS is the RADIO SHACK RELAY.....four poster. The gnd is the ground for its coil and the wire across from it called NEW is the power for its coil to pull it in.
Last edited by HAILERS; 06-05-04 at 08:46 PM.
06-05-04, 08:58 PM
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Here, I stole this off another thread: Radio Shack - "30 Amp Auto Relay", cat #275-226
All four posts have numbers on those relays. I'll post which wire goes to which number tomorrow. Frankly I don't know what they stand for. I just took a meter and put it on two post opposite each other til I found the coil. Those two had to be the ground on one and the pull in power on the other. The other two that did not read across or were open had to be for the new 12v wire and the out put from that wire to the Resistor Relay on the LB or blue/red wire. Later tomorrow
All four posts have numbers on those relays. I'll post which wire goes to which number tomorrow. Frankly I don't know what they stand for. I just took a meter and put it on two post opposite each other til I found the coil. Those two had to be the ground on one and the pull in power on the other. The other two that did not read across or were open had to be for the new 12v wire and the out put from that wire to the Resistor Relay on the LB or blue/red wire. Later tomorrow
06-06-04, 10:50 AM
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This jpg might help some: http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=30393
The RS relay should have some numbers embossed on it. The number 86 is for a ground.
85 is for the power from the Blue wire in the original harness to the pump (the blue wire that you cut three or four inches back from the fuel pump plug).
80 is for the new 12v source from up front.
87 is for the singel Blue/Red wire from the Resistor/Relay plug. That particular Blue/Red wire is on the top row, far right IF you are looking into the mating side of the connector.
Don't be alarmed if this method varies from a regular fuel pump rewire as in the following jpg. There are good reasons for that. https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...postid=2145854
The RS relay should have some numbers embossed on it. The number 86 is for a ground.
85 is for the power from the Blue wire in the original harness to the pump (the blue wire that you cut three or four inches back from the fuel pump plug).
80 is for the new 12v source from up front.
87 is for the singel Blue/Red wire from the Resistor/Relay plug. That particular Blue/Red wire is on the top row, far right IF you are looking into the mating side of the connector.
Don't be alarmed if this method varies from a regular fuel pump rewire as in the following jpg. There are good reasons for that. https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...postid=2145854
Last edited by HAILERS; 06-06-04 at 10:57 AM.
06-06-04, 11:04 AM
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There is one thing I don't think you answered. Although you have a Turbo ECU, are you using a turboII harness with it?
The only reason I ask, is that pin 3D on a non turbo harness will have a constant ground on it, no matter what the turbo ECU does.
That would mean that the relay inside the Resistor/Relay assy will not ever relax and provide 13 plus volts.
The simple way around that is to clip the BR (black/red) wire a couple of inches back from the ECU and cap off the end of that wire as it goes into the harness. Then use the rest of that BR wire that is attached to the ECU for splicing on to your new wire going to the rear of the car.
The only reason I ask, is that pin 3D on a non turbo harness will have a constant ground on it, no matter what the turbo ECU does.
That would mean that the relay inside the Resistor/Relay assy will not ever relax and provide 13 plus volts.
The simple way around that is to clip the BR (black/red) wire a couple of inches back from the ECU and cap off the end of that wire as it goes into the harness. Then use the rest of that BR wire that is attached to the ECU for splicing on to your new wire going to the rear of the car.
06-06-04, 11:27 AM
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This jpg shows the plug and the color of the wires if you use a little imagination. http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=30397
So on the top row, the Blue/Red will be spliced with the middle Black/White wire.
And on the top row the far right Blue/Red will go to the number 87 point on the RS relay.
And on the bottom row the far left and far right Blue wires will be spliced together.
And on the bottom row the middle Green/Red will go to the new wire you strung from pin 3D on the ECU.
So on the top row, the Blue/Red will be spliced with the middle Black/White wire.
And on the top row the far right Blue/Red will go to the number 87 point on the RS relay.
And on the bottom row the far left and far right Blue wires will be spliced together.
And on the bottom row the middle Green/Red will go to the new wire you strung from pin 3D on the ECU.
06-06-04, 11:59 AM
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Or this....similar to the last: http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=30398
Off to play now.
Off to play now.
06-06-04, 01:40 PM
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BEST: http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=30402
LR= BLUE/RED
BW= BLACK/WHITE
GR= GREEN/RED
THE BLACK/WHITE WIRE HAS SMALL WHITE STRIPES IN IT. HARDLY NOTICABLE IN THE JPG
LR= BLUE/RED
BW= BLACK/WHITE
GR= GREEN/RED
THE BLACK/WHITE WIRE HAS SMALL WHITE STRIPES IN IT. HARDLY NOTICABLE IN THE JPG
Last edited by HAILERS; 06-06-04 at 01:45 PM.
06-06-04, 01:53 PM
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Just gotta proof read someday. Where it says ORIGINAL FUEL PUMP PLUG.....I meant that you splice to the original Blue wire from the front of the car. You should have cut this Blue wire about four or so inches from the fuel pump plug and now it's part of a four way splice to 85 on the relay. I'm a little better at the doing than the telling how to.
06-06-04, 11:41 PM
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Thanks for all your help Hailers. I don't know if everything works yet. I ened to get my turbo back on before I cantry to fire it up. If I turn my key to the on position, should i hear the Walbro kicking on? And one more elctrical query, and I'll let yoyu be on your merry way. I have the U.S. spec cassis harness in the engine bay with a Jspec engine. The power return wires(2 pin clip) ont he alternator aren't on the chassis harness in the Aspec. How/where do I need to run wires to hook these up correctly. I don't want to have to jump my car everytime I go somewhere.
06-07-04, 01:35 PM
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The fuel pump runs only:
1. When the key is HELD to START
2. When the engine starts and the key is returned to ON
3. When the yellow fuel pump check connector near the boost sensor area has a jumper wire put b/t its two sockets and the key is to On.
The pump WILL NOT run if the key is just put to ON and the engine is not running.
Putting the key to ON and shoving the vane in the afm aft by at least a 1/16 inch will make the pump run.
I've been told that the JDM engines have their fuel lines on the engine opposite those of the USA version. Nornal engine the pressure line from the fuel pump goes to the front hard line on the engine and the return on the aft hard line on the engine. Just the opposite on JDM
Later on the alternator. But first.......is this the same alt that you had before? OH heck. The bottom wire on the small plug does nothing useful in life except turn on a idiot light to tell you that the alt is not working. The top wire goes to a switched 12v/ fused source. Do you have any elec plugs near your left strut tower that are not being used?? That's a possible source of 12v switched voltage for the top wire on the alt. That other wire, the bottom one, goes to the CPU near your left foot. You could run a wire from the plug to that CPU wire. I forget which color wire right now. If interested write back and I'll look for the color. Bottom line is that the series four alt needs a 12v switched source for the top blade on the back of the alt to regulate/excitaton the alt field. Something like that.
1. When the key is HELD to START
2. When the engine starts and the key is returned to ON
3. When the yellow fuel pump check connector near the boost sensor area has a jumper wire put b/t its two sockets and the key is to On.
The pump WILL NOT run if the key is just put to ON and the engine is not running.
Putting the key to ON and shoving the vane in the afm aft by at least a 1/16 inch will make the pump run.
I've been told that the JDM engines have their fuel lines on the engine opposite those of the USA version. Nornal engine the pressure line from the fuel pump goes to the front hard line on the engine and the return on the aft hard line on the engine. Just the opposite on JDM
Later on the alternator. But first.......is this the same alt that you had before? OH heck. The bottom wire on the small plug does nothing useful in life except turn on a idiot light to tell you that the alt is not working. The top wire goes to a switched 12v/ fused source. Do you have any elec plugs near your left strut tower that are not being used?? That's a possible source of 12v switched voltage for the top wire on the alt. That other wire, the bottom one, goes to the CPU near your left foot. You could run a wire from the plug to that CPU wire. I forget which color wire right now. If interested write back and I'll look for the color. Bottom line is that the series four alt needs a 12v switched source for the top blade on the back of the alt to regulate/excitaton the alt field. Something like that.
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