i need help finding a ECU for my 88 rx-7 turbo 2 10th aniv. the old one has just went bad (pretty sure) and we are having a hard time finding a rebuilt/new one. Looking for a oem instead of a aftermarket one. Does anyone know of a good place to get a good ECU at a good price. Online or not.

 

a lot of people on here have them.. theres always the partstrader. When I fried mine I bought one for 70 I think :-/ but I've seen people offering them for 50.

 

Any N33X (N332, N333, N335, N338) model should work... so you have more choices than an exact match.

 

As a side thought, RXSTER used the people at the site I'm about to paste. Why don't you try them out to repair your old one so we can see if they are any good??? http://www.autoecu.com/AboutUs/default.asp

But if not, you should be able to advertise on this site and be able to get one for fifty or so. Not much more. Junk yard around here only charges that amount.

 

http://66.216.67.51/product.asp?0=208&1=297&3=266

 

N353 91 NA Vert If the third digit does not make any difference why have it?
I can't understand why there would be no change between my 89 and 91 ECU.

 

http://search.ebaymotors.com/search/...aytag1=ebayreg

I'm tempted to buy the one for $5.50. Wonder if the guts come with the case?

 

Thanks every body for the help. Still looking but appracite the help. I was told by the guy I bought the car from that I have to put in the same ECU that came with it (N333).
Also Piranha? what happen when your's "fried"? My problem is that I have no spark and the first fuel pump wont come on. Dont know about the second pump. can't get that far till I get the car started. :-) Call the guy I bought it from and he says it's the ECU. Right now he all I got for advice.

 

My friend has one from an '87 turbo that would work. I'm sure he'll sell it. You CAN NOT use one from an n/a on that car. In '89-'91 cars you could swap the n/a with the turbo computers if you did the engine swap from n/a to turbo. You can't do this on '86-'88 cars. The n/a computers can not compensate for boost anyways. The key is to find one from an '87 or '88 T-II or have yours fixed.

 

The 87 models ECU would not work, they use a different impedence injectors...as well as other minor changes. You would have to add a resister pack at the very least.

The 88 T2 ECU (and compatibles like the N332-N333-N338) will only work on the 88 model year cars. 89+ and 87 and down are completely different ECUs.

Ted will back me up... if you have a 332 you can replace it with a 333 or 338 and the car will run fine. But if you have a 327 or 35X it will not.

 

So I'm lost, would the extra one that have from my 88 'vert work for ya?

 

thanks Icemark, help alot. now I can atleast start looking for a N333 (mine) or a N332 or N338.

Life would be a lot eaiser if we drove ford's

Rotarygod ...Let me know if your friend has one to sell......thanks

 

Obviously you've never had a Ford. Or at least, an old Ford.
I was going to offer a couple of ECUs I have as potential candidates, but they are early 87 332s.

 

I know about the resistor pack. I even have an extra lying around. As for the other stuff, you learn something new everyday

 

Just did some more digging and a couple of people suggested to me that it wouldn't matter if it was a ECU from an 87 T2 as long as it still was a N33X series.

I guess the resister pack is really just for the injectors, and the controller outputs for them are the same either way.

Where is ted when you really need him eh???

 

One would think if the ECU was set up for the low impedance injectors, the car wouldn't NEED the resistor pack in the first place

I have low impedance secondaries in my 88 running off the stock 88 ECU and an 87's resistor pack.

 

As to your question to Piranha as what did he do with his broken one.......I bought it from him. I was going to make a breakout box from it using the jack/plug and the chassis. Out of curiosity I found that what is wrong on the whole with it, is that the 4.5volts reference voltage is missing for the air flow meter, tps, pressure sensor, variable resistor etc. I think if I can find the source for the reference voltage I can replace that part and have another spare ECU.

I might suggest you think about what caused yours to go **** up and make sure that problem does not happen to your future ECU. That reference voltage comes out of pin 2A. Or you can check for the 4.5v at the brown/white wire at each of the aforementioned parts i.e. pressure sensor, tps, atp, afm.

Anyway all thats on my back burner. Gotta go boost now.

 

Yeah, my stuff didn't work, so I sold it. :P I needed the money!

 

Thanks everyone ....Got a Ecu on it's way ...hope that will do it for me.

Oh...FYI Yes I have owned Ford's before '78, '87 Mus. and a prob. Guess I just didnt have any luck with mine except the '78

 

Mustang II? Yech.

 

LOL @evil he said not aftermarket, even tho its way way better