Name that port!
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From: Columbus Ga
did some searching and found this
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...r+wire+voltage
im about to go and follow hailers instructions to check the ecu to see if i could have a prob with my ecu. i checked the voltage on my injector wires and they all had one wire with 12v. Which is what its supposed to be. Im on my way to pick up the new injectors now. My ecu is a N332 tho. This guy had a N374 which is known for "driver" problems
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...r+wire+voltage
im about to go and follow hailers instructions to check the ecu to see if i could have a prob with my ecu. i checked the voltage on my injector wires and they all had one wire with 12v. Which is what its supposed to be. Im on my way to pick up the new injectors now. My ecu is a N332 tho. This guy had a N374 which is known for "driver" problems
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
Whats up erybody, I got a 87 t2 w/ s5 internals that has been rebuilt and bridgeported. I currently have about 76 miles on the motor. I dont have any other serious mods beside a 8lb flywheel, 6 puck act clutch kit, afc, and wideband w/ o2 sensor. I havent made any a/f adjustments cuz im waitin until i get to about 500 miles before i make any changes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dl2igJ-67qU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dl2igJ-67qU
And I'm naming the port "Samantha".
Edit...And here are some bridgeported rotary idles:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkQUPXhoMAg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3X7Fs5ZDSY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKaoxJ7dCzw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qpfqB1Hf40
Last edited by Aaron Cake; Feb 26, 2009 at 09:30 AM.
It sounds just like my motor used to when I bought it. It turned out to be a combination of vac leaks and a misadjusted throttle body and fast idle cam. Anytime the rpms are kept around 1,100 the ecu starts to advance the timing causing this surging idle. In my case it was the previous owner trying to get it to idle after having the new engine installed. They had the idle screws all messed up and it kept the throttle open to the point that teh ECU would start advancing the idle.
Read here if you want:
VIDEO - Still crappy idle, no response to idle adjustment??
This is the jist of it though:
Read here if you want:
VIDEO - Still crappy idle, no response to idle adjustment??
This is the jist of it though:
Ok. I duplicated the hunting idle on a '88 TII that I have at work. I manually held the throttle at 1100-1200 rpm and watched the timing. It advanced 6 degrees from base timing and back and forth until I released the throttle. So basically, anything holding the idle that high will cause the bouncing, whether it be thermowax, vacuum leak, tight cable, dashpot, BAC screw, or whatever. It doesn't have to be strictly a bad tps as so many on here have suggested.
Bottom line is: The idle speed must be kept at or under 1000 rpm with the tps set correctly to prevent the bouncy idle. So, in my opinion, when other people have a bouncy idle complaint, the diagnostics should start with:
(1) A visual inspection of the throttle lever to insure that it contacts the stop screw (by using a mirror and flashlight or temporary removal of the intercooler)
(2) If a gap is found between the throttle lever and stop screw, inspect thermowax and fast idle cam position adjustment, dashpot function and adjustment, and throttle cable slack.
(3) With the throttle lever against the stop screw, perform vacuum leak test using the propane method or compressed air method and make associated repairs.
(4) Set timing to spec with engine below 1000 rpm.
(5) Adjust A/F mixture screw (if equipped) to obtain smoothest idle
(6) Adjust BAC screw (if equipped) to obtain 750 rpm idle (or your preferred speed at 1000 rpm or less) and re-adjust A/F mixture screw if required.
(7) Adjust TPS per FSM and re-adjust idle speed if necessary.
Bottom line is: The idle speed must be kept at or under 1000 rpm with the tps set correctly to prevent the bouncy idle. So, in my opinion, when other people have a bouncy idle complaint, the diagnostics should start with:
(1) A visual inspection of the throttle lever to insure that it contacts the stop screw (by using a mirror and flashlight or temporary removal of the intercooler)
(2) If a gap is found between the throttle lever and stop screw, inspect thermowax and fast idle cam position adjustment, dashpot function and adjustment, and throttle cable slack.
(3) With the throttle lever against the stop screw, perform vacuum leak test using the propane method or compressed air method and make associated repairs.
(4) Set timing to spec with engine below 1000 rpm.
(5) Adjust A/F mixture screw (if equipped) to obtain smoothest idle
(6) Adjust BAC screw (if equipped) to obtain 750 rpm idle (or your preferred speed at 1000 rpm or less) and re-adjust A/F mixture screw if required.
(7) Adjust TPS per FSM and re-adjust idle speed if necessary.
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From: Columbus Ga
again i would like to thank those of u who are actually providing helpful info and not taking this oppurtunity to bash someone whos learning.With that said i just got back with the new injectors. i also ohmed out the injector wires and everything checked out good. since alot of you wanted to hear the car from the outside to be sure it was in fact running on one rotor i made another video today.
I also would like to use this video as a "before" video. What i mean is this is the video before i do what craiger said and replace the injectors and before i follow nj green budds very helpful procedure that he posted for the idle.
I hope that the combination of these two guys information will cure my idle issue.
Here is the new video of my idle from outside the car before i start the fixes...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnwicTo_gqA
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From: Columbus Ga
Yeah i know man. Hes the shiznit. Thats not dick riding, just being honest. Guys like aaron, iceman, hailers, just to name a few are the reason i am as far along as i am. Gotta give props where they are due. Ive been a member here for a long time and have had 2 fc's this is my first turbo fc tho. I dont have many posts cuz of guys like aaron. Most of the time for whateva problem u might have those guys have encountered and mastered it. And if u search u can find a solution to just about anything from one of them. So i take heed to whateva they might say. Just didnt know if he was being serious or not.
I know he has to have a sense of humor tho and i couldnt tell if he was making use of it there or not especially since he named the port "samantha" which i thought was pretty funny. And ironic cuz the cars name is michelle.
12v on one wire to each injector is normal. There should be a switched ground (trigger) on the other wire too but it will be too short of a pulse for a multimetre to pick up.
Replacing the injectors will only help if the injector itself is not opening when voltage and ground is applied... which is very possible. To test, pull the injector off the car, hook up some wire to a battery and quickly touch the other ends of the wires to the contacts on the injector. If you hear a clicking sound (like a relay) then it is opening. If there is nothing then either the coil in the injector is fried or the mech is too gummed up with old fuel and is stuck closed (or possibly open).
If you hadn't at least cleaned your injectors during the rebuild you should have.
From the outside the engine bay clip, I do believe I hear a vaccume leak. obviously you have some stuff to sort out, but the port could be a bridge as well from the engine noise in that clip too, but it is hard to tell. If your engine builder has told you he gave you a bridge port then i'd assume that's what it is.
What size injectors are you using?
Replacing the injectors will only help if the injector itself is not opening when voltage and ground is applied... which is very possible. To test, pull the injector off the car, hook up some wire to a battery and quickly touch the other ends of the wires to the contacts on the injector. If you hear a clicking sound (like a relay) then it is opening. If there is nothing then either the coil in the injector is fried or the mech is too gummed up with old fuel and is stuck closed (or possibly open).
If you hadn't at least cleaned your injectors during the rebuild you should have.
From the outside the engine bay clip, I do believe I hear a vaccume leak. obviously you have some stuff to sort out, but the port could be a bridge as well from the engine noise in that clip too, but it is hard to tell. If your engine builder has told you he gave you a bridge port then i'd assume that's what it is.
What size injectors are you using?
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From: Columbus Ga
12v on one wire to each injector is normal. There should be a switched ground (trigger) on the other wire too but it will be too short of a pulse for a multimetre to pick up.
Replacing the injectors will only help if the injector itself is not opening when voltage and ground is applied... which is very possible. To test, pull the injector off the car, hook up some wire to a battery and quickly touch the other ends of the wires to the contacts on the injector. If you hear a clicking sound (like a relay) then it is opening. If there is nothing then either the coil in the injector is fried or the mech is too gummed up with old fuel and is stuck closed (or possibly open).
If you hadn't at least cleaned your injectors during the rebuild you should have.
From the outside the engine bay clip, I do believe I hear a vaccume leak. obviously you have some stuff to sort out, but the port could be a bridge as well from the engine noise in that clip too, but it is hard to tell. If your engine builder has told you he gave you a bridge port then i'd assume that's what it is.
What size injectors are you using?
Replacing the injectors will only help if the injector itself is not opening when voltage and ground is applied... which is very possible. To test, pull the injector off the car, hook up some wire to a battery and quickly touch the other ends of the wires to the contacts on the injector. If you hear a clicking sound (like a relay) then it is opening. If there is nothing then either the coil in the injector is fried or the mech is too gummed up with old fuel and is stuck closed (or possibly open).
If you hadn't at least cleaned your injectors during the rebuild you should have.
From the outside the engine bay clip, I do believe I hear a vaccume leak. obviously you have some stuff to sort out, but the port could be a bridge as well from the engine noise in that clip too, but it is hard to tell. If your engine builder has told you he gave you a bridge port then i'd assume that's what it is.
What size injectors are you using?
something else i noticed after removing the injectors is that one of the air bleed sockets doesnt look to be aligned properly. i was looking down in there with a flashlight and noticed it. im not sure how much this has to do with how the car was running but the one on the primary injector closest to the firewall definately looks a little off. I dont know if i did this while pulling the injectors out or not.
i will try the injector check now with the ones i took out
Yeah, they come stock with 550cc.
No you shouldn't just try different size injectors.
I think you need to take a minute and just step back. You really need to find out whats up wth your car before you kill the motor, if it isn't shot already. You said the ECU has been modified, you need to know the presets for the injectors. The SAFC can help a little but you need to know what you have to start with. You're not gonna fix this by swapping to a larger injector. You need to fix the vac leaks, set the idle correctly and see if the motor runs any better.
Talk to the man who built the engine, see if he knows for sure what he did to it or if it's all just guessing.
No you shouldn't just try different size injectors.
I think you need to take a minute and just step back. You really need to find out whats up wth your car before you kill the motor, if it isn't shot already. You said the ECU has been modified, you need to know the presets for the injectors. The SAFC can help a little but you need to know what you have to start with. You're not gonna fix this by swapping to a larger injector. You need to fix the vac leaks, set the idle correctly and see if the motor runs any better.
Talk to the man who built the engine, see if he knows for sure what he did to it or if it's all just guessing.
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From: Columbus Ga
Yeah, they come stock with 550cc.
No you shouldn't just try different size injectors.
I think you need to take a minute and just step back. You really need to find out whats up wth your car before you kill the motor, if it isn't shot already. You said the ECU has been modified, you need to know the presets for the injectors. The SAFC can help a little but you need to know what you have to start with. You're not gonna fix this by swapping to a larger injector. You need to fix the vac leaks, set the idle correctly and see if the motor runs any better.
Talk to the man who built the engine, see if he knows for sure what he did to it or if it's all just guessing.
No you shouldn't just try different size injectors.
I think you need to take a minute and just step back. You really need to find out whats up wth your car before you kill the motor, if it isn't shot already. You said the ECU has been modified, you need to know the presets for the injectors. The SAFC can help a little but you need to know what you have to start with. You're not gonna fix this by swapping to a larger injector. You need to fix the vac leaks, set the idle correctly and see if the motor runs any better.
Talk to the man who built the engine, see if he knows for sure what he did to it or if it's all just guessing.
there is a difference. dude thanks alot for the help. im not being sarcastic i really do appreciate you looking to help me out, but this aint my first turbo rodeo. just got done boostin my rx8 a few months ago. this IS my first ported (bridge/street whicheva it is) turbo rodeo. im not randomly tryin diff injectors. read my post please. I said "once i get the car running properly i would maybe wanna try some of the 680's in the primaries." that means when hook up my wideband o2 sensor (thats hasnt even been opened yet) its running good, idling good and the a/f is good. I can then get some bigger injectors for when i get it tuned. sorry i wasnt clear on that but i just assumed that most would understand what i meant when i said "once i get the car running properly" I also never said the ecu was modified. maybe u are confusing this thread with some other ones. Also you must have skipped most of this thread because the safc (for the 10th time) has not been adjusted at all. the only things that i did with the safc is tell it what kinda sensors i have and how to read the throttle voltage. thats it.
swapping to a larger injector to fix this problem is/was never my intention. The motor is more than likely not "shot."
The guy who built it for me happens to be on vacation until next wed. Not to mention the problem im having can be diagnosed and maybe solved if i do enough searching here. Not that i wouldnt want to talk to the guy but i dont have the ***** to call the man while hes on vacation with his family and ask him about why my idle is hunting/surging. I wouldnt want someone doing that to me. Hes a cool guy but we are not exactly bff... This is also not my daily driver so the car will really sit in my driveway until i find out for sure whats going on and im able to get it fixed.
Now before i forget, anyone have any info on how the "air bleed sockets" that the injectors kinda "sit in" could affect the performance of the injector?
i pulled the old injectors out today and it looks like they are 490's according to the FAQ's. i checked the injector codes that were listed there. The t2 comes wit 550's right? i ordered the stock injectors from a local auto store today and they will be in tomorrow. once i get the car running properly i would maybe wanna try some of the 680's in the primaries.
something else i noticed after removing the injectors is that one of the air bleed sockets doesnt look to be aligned properly. i was looking down in there with a flashlight and noticed it. im not sure how much this has to do with how the car was running but the one on the primary injector closest to the firewall definately looks a little off. I dont know if i did this while pulling the injectors out or not.
i will try the injector check now with the ones i took out
something else i noticed after removing the injectors is that one of the air bleed sockets doesnt look to be aligned properly. i was looking down in there with a flashlight and noticed it. im not sure how much this has to do with how the car was running but the one on the primary injector closest to the firewall definately looks a little off. I dont know if i did this while pulling the injectors out or not.
i will try the injector check now with the ones i took out
Yeah, they come stock with 550cc.
No you shouldn't just try different size injectors.
I think you need to take a minute and just step back. You really need to find out whats up wth your car before you kill the motor, if it isn't shot already. You said the ECU has been modified, you need to know the presets for the injectors. The SAFC can help a little but you need to know what you have to start with. You're not gonna fix this by swapping to a larger injector. You need to fix the vac leaks, set the idle correctly and see if the motor runs any better.
Talk to the man who built the engine, see if he knows for sure what he did to it or if it's all just guessing.
No you shouldn't just try different size injectors.
I think you need to take a minute and just step back. You really need to find out whats up wth your car before you kill the motor, if it isn't shot already. You said the ECU has been modified, you need to know the presets for the injectors. The SAFC can help a little but you need to know what you have to start with. You're not gonna fix this by swapping to a larger injector. You need to fix the vac leaks, set the idle correctly and see if the motor runs any better.
Talk to the man who built the engine, see if he knows for sure what he did to it or if it's all just guessing.
He needs to get the car running on both rotors before he can attempt to adjust the idle. Playing with the idle adjustments right now will be a waste of time and will probably make it harder to get the car to run properly once both rotors are fireing.
im learning...im not STUPID... there is a difference. dude thanks alot for the help. im not being sarcastic i really do appreciate you looking to help me out, but this aint my first turbo rodeo. just got done boostin my rx8 a few months ago. this IS my first ported (bridge/street whicheva it is) turbo rodeo. im not randomly tryin diff injectors. read my post please. I said "once i get the car running properly i would maybe wanna try some of the 680's in the primaries." that means when hook up my wideband o2 sensor (thats hasnt even been opened yet) its running good, idling good and the a/f is good. I can then get some bigger injectors for when i get it tuned. sorry i wasnt clear on that but i just assumed that most would understand what i meant when i said "once i get the car running properly" I also never said the ecu was modified. maybe u are confusing this thread with some other ones.
Also you must have skipped most of this thread because the safc (for the 10th time) has not been adjusted at all. the only things that i did with the safc is tell it what kinda sensors i have and how to read the throttle voltage. thats it.
swapping to a larger injector to fix this problem is/was never my intention. The motor is more than likely not "shot."
The guy who built it for me happens to be on vacation until next wed. Not to mention the problem im having can be diagnosed and maybe solved if i do enough searching here. Not that i wouldnt want to talk to the guy but i dont have the ***** to call the man while hes on vacation with his family and ask him about why my idle is hunting/surging. I wouldnt want someone doing that to me. Hes a cool guy but we are not exactly bff... This is also not my daily driver so the car will really sit in my driveway until i find out for sure whats going on and im able to get it fixed.
Now before i forget, anyone have any info on how the "air bleed sockets" that the injectors kinda "sit in" could affect the performance of the injector?
there is a difference. dude thanks alot for the help. im not being sarcastic i really do appreciate you looking to help me out, but this aint my first turbo rodeo. just got done boostin my rx8 a few months ago. this IS my first ported (bridge/street whicheva it is) turbo rodeo. im not randomly tryin diff injectors. read my post please. I said "once i get the car running properly i would maybe wanna try some of the 680's in the primaries." that means when hook up my wideband o2 sensor (thats hasnt even been opened yet) its running good, idling good and the a/f is good. I can then get some bigger injectors for when i get it tuned. sorry i wasnt clear on that but i just assumed that most would understand what i meant when i said "once i get the car running properly" I also never said the ecu was modified. maybe u are confusing this thread with some other ones. Also you must have skipped most of this thread because the safc (for the 10th time) has not been adjusted at all. the only things that i did with the safc is tell it what kinda sensors i have and how to read the throttle voltage. thats it.
swapping to a larger injector to fix this problem is/was never my intention. The motor is more than likely not "shot."
The guy who built it for me happens to be on vacation until next wed. Not to mention the problem im having can be diagnosed and maybe solved if i do enough searching here. Not that i wouldnt want to talk to the guy but i dont have the ***** to call the man while hes on vacation with his family and ask him about why my idle is hunting/surging. I wouldnt want someone doing that to me. Hes a cool guy but we are not exactly bff... This is also not my daily driver so the car will really sit in my driveway until i find out for sure whats going on and im able to get it fixed.
Now before i forget, anyone have any info on how the "air bleed sockets" that the injectors kinda "sit in" could affect the performance of the injector?
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From: usa
once i get the car running properly i would maybe wanna try some of the 680's in the primaries." that means when hook up my wideband o2 sensor (thats hasnt even been opened yet) its running good, idling good and the a/f is good. I can then get some bigger injectors for when i get it tuned.
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From: Columbus Ga
When I decide to up the boost or go bigger turbo (way down the line) then an increase in air would require an increase in fuel and if the injectors and fuel pump I have at that time can't supply the necessary fuel then I will have to upgrade the fuel system. I was thinking it would be a good idea to get my a/f right on stock boost (or as close as I can to being right) I really don't want to start upping boost until I'm at the dyno getting a tune. I've seen too many engine get killed that way. But like I said I got alot of work to do before I get that far. I wish it wasn't raining today or I'd be outside now working. Maybe it will stop.
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From: Columbus Ga
wait a minute... If I'm running stock turbo, stock boost settings, and stock injectors. Does that mean the a/f is right by default? Or would my racing beat exhaust system change it?
Oh and craiger I have a walbro 255lph fuel pump and a fuel pressure regulator.
Oh and craiger I have a walbro 255lph fuel pump and a fuel pressure regulator.
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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From: usa
I think you need to slow WAY down with this project. It seems like you have alot to learn, and while you do have a decent amount of knowledge, it seems like just enough to get you into some real trouble.
That said, Yes, the RB exhaust FUBAR's all bets because of the increased boost.
That said, Yes, the RB exhaust FUBAR's all bets because of the increased boost.
im learning...im not STUPID... there is a difference. dude thanks alot for the help. im not being sarcastic i really do appreciate you looking to help me out, but this aint my first turbo rodeo. just got done boostin my rx8 a few months ago. this IS my first ported (bridge/street whicheva it is) turbo rodeo. im not randomly tryin diff injectors. read my post please. I said "once i get the car running properly i would maybe wanna try some of the 680's in the primaries." that means when hook up my wideband o2 sensor (thats hasnt even been opened yet) its running good, idling good and the a/f is good. I can then get some bigger injectors for when i get it tuned. sorry i wasnt clear on that but i just assumed that most would understand what i meant when i said "once i get the car running properly" I also never said the ecu was modified. maybe u are confusing this thread with some other ones.
Also you must have skipped most of this thread because the safc (for the 10th time) has not been adjusted at all. the only things that i did with the safc is tell it what kinda sensors i have and how to read the throttle voltage. thats it.
swapping to a larger injector to fix this problem is/was never my intention. The motor is more than likely not "shot."
The guy who built it for me happens to be on vacation until next wed. Not to mention the problem im having can be diagnosed and maybe solved if i do enough searching here. Not that i wouldnt want to talk to the guy but i dont have the ***** to call the man while hes on vacation with his family and ask him about why my idle is hunting/surging. I wouldnt want someone doing that to me. Hes a cool guy but we are not exactly bff... This is also not my daily driver so the car will really sit in my driveway until i find out for sure whats going on and im able to get it fixed.
Now before i forget, anyone have any info on how the "air bleed sockets" that the injectors kinda "sit in" could affect the performance of the injector?
there is a difference. dude thanks alot for the help. im not being sarcastic i really do appreciate you looking to help me out, but this aint my first turbo rodeo. just got done boostin my rx8 a few months ago. this IS my first ported (bridge/street whicheva it is) turbo rodeo. im not randomly tryin diff injectors. read my post please. I said "once i get the car running properly i would maybe wanna try some of the 680's in the primaries." that means when hook up my wideband o2 sensor (thats hasnt even been opened yet) its running good, idling good and the a/f is good. I can then get some bigger injectors for when i get it tuned. sorry i wasnt clear on that but i just assumed that most would understand what i meant when i said "once i get the car running properly" I also never said the ecu was modified. maybe u are confusing this thread with some other ones. Also you must have skipped most of this thread because the safc (for the 10th time) has not been adjusted at all. the only things that i did with the safc is tell it what kinda sensors i have and how to read the throttle voltage. thats it.
swapping to a larger injector to fix this problem is/was never my intention. The motor is more than likely not "shot."
The guy who built it for me happens to be on vacation until next wed. Not to mention the problem im having can be diagnosed and maybe solved if i do enough searching here. Not that i wouldnt want to talk to the guy but i dont have the ***** to call the man while hes on vacation with his family and ask him about why my idle is hunting/surging. I wouldnt want someone doing that to me. Hes a cool guy but we are not exactly bff... This is also not my daily driver so the car will really sit in my driveway until i find out for sure whats going on and im able to get it fixed.
Now before i forget, anyone have any info on how the "air bleed sockets" that the injectors kinda "sit in" could affect the performance of the injector?
Look man, once the car is running right you can do whatever you want, heck you can do whatever you want right now, it's your car, your engine. And I did read your posts but I don't think you need to be worrying about bigger injectors at the moment. Like you said, the WBO2 and SAFC will tell you if you need bigger injectors once they are installed, until then it's just conjecture. And I think the modified ECU was from a different thread....
If the motor is only running on one rotor I wouldn't say it's in the best shape, maybe you can fix it easily, maybe it needs to be rebuilt. I would certainly be in touch with the builder at some point to let him know whats going on, he is the one that warranties his work, this board can't help there.The fuel injector mixing plate/air socket thing won't have anything to do with this, just make sure it sits flush when you reinstall the injectors so you have a tight seal with no leaks.
Do you mean to tell me that no one should ever use a different size injector in their motor other than stock? So all these people using 680's, 720's, 1000's, and 1600's are doing it wrong?
He needs to get the car running on both rotors before he can attempt to adjust the idle. Playing with the idle adjustments right now will be a waste of time and will probably make it harder to get the car to run properly once both rotors are fireing.
He needs to get the car running on both rotors before he can attempt to adjust the idle. Playing with the idle adjustments right now will be a waste of time and will probably make it harder to get the car to run properly once both rotors are fireing.
Seriously though, no, not at all. Is that what you inferred from my post?
What I was attempting to communicate is that fuel injector size needs to be matched to an ECU/EMS that is capable of controlling them. Take my TII w/ Rtek7 Stg 2.1 ECU, I'm running 720cc injectors in both primary and secondaries but I have an ECU that has presets and the ability to adjust the fuel maps and staging points of the injectors.
I don't see how resetting the TPS and fast idle cam can have any negative impact on the way the motor is running. How could adjusting the idle cam, throttle stop, throttle cable, BAC or even timing to stock specifications make it harder to run?
Whatever, sounds like this will work itself out one way or another. Not my loss.
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From: Columbus Ga
Yeah green budd u are right... it could be a major problem im having or it could be a minor problem. I just really hope that i dont have to go and get a "rebuild", rebuilt! Like i said before it only has 76 miles on this rebuilt engine. thats not an exaggeration either. And none of them are above 5 grand and none of those miles are WOT. I dont think its even been 50% throttle under load yet.
I dorve it around a little bit cuz i had to put in the new act clutch kit. Im not denying the motor may be shot but it would definately be a travesty if it is. I mean thus far ive purchased good stuff. Atkins 13b turbo master rebuild kit is what the guy had me buy to build this thing the way i told him i wanted it. From reading up on it theres not much better stuff u can get when rebuilding an engine.
It may be that ive spent alot of money thus far thats keeping me from thinking its a dud motor. But whateva it is, i really dont think its bad.
Since its raining and i already have the primaries out. I brought them in and I did the test on the injectors that craiger told me to do (wife was trippin). She hates when i bring my car stuff in the house. Anyway one of the injectors clicked and the other one didnt make any noise at all. I just touched the prongs on the injectors to a battery. If i did the procedure correctly it looks like this may be my problem. At this point all i can do is hope.
Oh yeah, hey NotTTT, im talking about doing all this extra this stuff when i get the car running right. And not before then. I do tho have alot im still learning. By the way what could go so wrong if i get the car running right and take it to get tuned at a dyno? From my experience thats the best way to go. Most people who had problems when boostin their rx8's messed up cuz of not going to get a decent tune or trying to increase boost without knowing how to adjust and manage a/f. I know these cars have alot of things that are different but they do have a few similarities in the fact that too much boost and not enough fuel is dangerous and vice versa.
My next question is... In the 2nd video was it still blatently obvious that its running on one rotor? And also this "vac leak" thing that aaron said has really got me bugging out. Only cuz im not really sure if he meant the vac leak would cause the eratic idle or cause it to run on one rotor? Either way i just got find it and fix it.
I dorve it around a little bit cuz i had to put in the new act clutch kit. Im not denying the motor may be shot but it would definately be a travesty if it is. I mean thus far ive purchased good stuff. Atkins 13b turbo master rebuild kit is what the guy had me buy to build this thing the way i told him i wanted it. From reading up on it theres not much better stuff u can get when rebuilding an engine.
It may be that ive spent alot of money thus far thats keeping me from thinking its a dud motor. But whateva it is, i really dont think its bad.
Since its raining and i already have the primaries out. I brought them in and I did the test on the injectors that craiger told me to do (wife was trippin). She hates when i bring my car stuff in the house. Anyway one of the injectors clicked and the other one didnt make any noise at all. I just touched the prongs on the injectors to a battery. If i did the procedure correctly it looks like this may be my problem. At this point all i can do is hope.
Oh yeah, hey NotTTT, im talking about doing all this extra this stuff when i get the car running right. And not before then. I do tho have alot im still learning. By the way what could go so wrong if i get the car running right and take it to get tuned at a dyno? From my experience thats the best way to go. Most people who had problems when boostin their rx8's messed up cuz of not going to get a decent tune or trying to increase boost without knowing how to adjust and manage a/f. I know these cars have alot of things that are different but they do have a few similarities in the fact that too much boost and not enough fuel is dangerous and vice versa.
My next question is... In the 2nd video was it still blatently obvious that its running on one rotor? And also this "vac leak" thing that aaron said has really got me bugging out. Only cuz im not really sure if he meant the vac leak would cause the eratic idle or cause it to run on one rotor? Either way i just got find it and fix it.
Yeah green budd u are right... it could be a major problem im having or it could be a minor problem. I just really hope that i dont have to go and get a "rebuild", rebuilt! Like i said before it only has 76 miles on this rebuilt engine. thats not an exaggeration either. And none of them are above 5 grand and none of those miles are WOT. I dont think its even been 50% throttle under load yet.
I dorve it around a little bit cuz i had to put in the new act clutch kit. Im not denying the motor may be shot but it would definately be a travesty if it is. I mean thus far ive purchased good stuff. Atkins 13b turbo master rebuild kit is what the guy had me buy to build this thing the way i told him i wanted it. From reading up on it theres not much better stuff u can get when rebuilding an engine.
It may be that ive spent alot of money thus far thats keeping me from thinking its a dud motor. But whateva it is, i really dont think its bad.
Since its raining and i already have the primaries out. I brought them in and I did the test on the injectors that craiger told me to do (wife was trippin). She hates when i bring my car stuff in the house. Anyway one of the injectors clicked and the other one didnt make any noise at all. I just touched the prongs on the injectors to a battery. If i did the procedure correctly it looks like this may be my problem. At this point all i can do is hope.
Oh yeah, hey NotTTT, im talking about doing all this extra this stuff when i get the car running right. And not before then. I do tho have alot im still learning. By the way what could go so wrong if i get the car running right and take it to get tuned at a dyno? From my experience thats the best way to go. Most people who had problems when boostin their rx8's messed up cuz of not going to get a decent tune or trying to increase boost without knowing how to adjust and manage a/f. I know these cars have alot of things that are different but they do have a few similarities in the fact that too much boost and not enough fuel is dangerous and vice versa.
My next question is... In the 2nd video was it still blatently obvious that its running on one rotor? And also this "vac leak" thing that aaron said has really got me bugging out. Only cuz im not really sure if he meant the vac leak would cause the eratic idle or cause it to run on one rotor? Either way i just got find it and fix it.
I dorve it around a little bit cuz i had to put in the new act clutch kit. Im not denying the motor may be shot but it would definately be a travesty if it is. I mean thus far ive purchased good stuff. Atkins 13b turbo master rebuild kit is what the guy had me buy to build this thing the way i told him i wanted it. From reading up on it theres not much better stuff u can get when rebuilding an engine.
It may be that ive spent alot of money thus far thats keeping me from thinking its a dud motor. But whateva it is, i really dont think its bad.
Since its raining and i already have the primaries out. I brought them in and I did the test on the injectors that craiger told me to do (wife was trippin). She hates when i bring my car stuff in the house. Anyway one of the injectors clicked and the other one didnt make any noise at all. I just touched the prongs on the injectors to a battery. If i did the procedure correctly it looks like this may be my problem. At this point all i can do is hope.
Oh yeah, hey NotTTT, im talking about doing all this extra this stuff when i get the car running right. And not before then. I do tho have alot im still learning. By the way what could go so wrong if i get the car running right and take it to get tuned at a dyno? From my experience thats the best way to go. Most people who had problems when boostin their rx8's messed up cuz of not going to get a decent tune or trying to increase boost without knowing how to adjust and manage a/f. I know these cars have alot of things that are different but they do have a few similarities in the fact that too much boost and not enough fuel is dangerous and vice versa.
My next question is... In the 2nd video was it still blatently obvious that its running on one rotor? And also this "vac leak" thing that aaron said has really got me bugging out. Only cuz im not really sure if he meant the vac leak would cause the eratic idle or cause it to run on one rotor? Either way i just got find it and fix it.
also, fuel isnt the only thing to look out for chum. there is timing, there is ignition split, theres air intake temp, there is the amount of spark as well.
soo many factors that could make a rotor go pop.
check compression on all faces of each rotor so you dont go out there and get a rebuild on an engine that is 100% fine.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 67
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From: Columbus Ga
what ecu are you runing (dont say safc)?
also, fuel isnt the only thing to look out for chum. there is timing, there is ignition split, theres air intake temp, there is the amount of spark as well.
soo many factors that could make a rotor go pop.
check compression on all faces of each rotor so you dont go out there and get a rebuild on an engine that is 100% fine.
also, fuel isnt the only thing to look out for chum. there is timing, there is ignition split, theres air intake temp, there is the amount of spark as well.
soo many factors that could make a rotor go pop.
check compression on all faces of each rotor so you dont go out there and get a rebuild on an engine that is 100% fine.
Thats one regret i have on my 8 was having it originally tuned at top speed in atlanta. They are a great shop with really good people and the entire experience was great. They did an excellent job and the car made good power but they just arent really that familiar with rotarys and couldnt get the timing and ignition system down. (Also i was running emanage ultimate at the time but thats another story) I ended up having to get it tuned again but i was gonna have to do that anyway because i wanted to run more boost. 4 pounds just wasnt enough for me.
But to answer your question right now im just running the t2 on the stock ecu.
i had a compression test done about 2 1/2-3 weeks ago (as previously posted) and the results were as follows
rotor 1 7.7, 7.9, 7.8
rotor 2 7.8, 7.7, 7.8
i thought this was low because stock the s5 motor has a 9 to somethin compression ratio. But the guy who built it said it was normal and as i break in the motor the compression would build. He told me to come back at 300 miles and we would do another compression test.
What I was attempting to communicate is that fuel injector size needs to be matched to an ECU/EMS that is capable of controlling them. Take my TII w/ Rtek7 Stg 2.1 ECU, I'm running 720cc injectors in both primary and secondaries but I have an ECU that has presets and the ability to adjust the fuel maps and staging points of the injectors.
both rotors sound like they are online to me.
the surging sounds like the TPS is screwed out too far.
i don't recommend boosting that car at all with a stock computer and injectors if it is indeed bridgeported.
the surging sounds like the TPS is screwed out too far.
i don't recommend boosting that car at all with a stock computer and injectors if it is indeed bridgeported.
Thats one regret i have on my 8 was having it originally tuned at top speed in atlanta. They are a great shop with really good people and the entire experience was great. They did an excellent job and the car made good power but they just arent really that familiar with rotarys and couldnt get the timing and ignition system down. (Also i was running emanage ultimate at the time but thats another story) I ended up having to get it tuned again but i was gonna have to do that anyway because i wanted to run more boost. 4 pounds just wasnt enough for me.
Doesn't seem like you have good luck with rotary builds.....makes good sense to start doing it yourself. Good luck man, keep us updated.
