kjdakilla

Whats up erybody, I got a 87 t2 w/ s5 internals that has been rebuilt and bridgeported. I currently have about 76 miles on the motor. I dont have any other serious mods beside a 8lb flywheel, 6 puck act clutch kit, afc, and wideband w/ o2 sensor. I havent made any a/f adjustments cuz im waitin until i get to about 500 miles before i make any changes.

This has been my first experience with a ported motor so i been doing alot of forum searching comparing my idle to other peoples "ported" idles. Im not sure if my idle is normal for a bridgeport cuz honestly i have heard some that have been faster, or higher, or whatever, but it seems that each one ive heard has its own little distinct sound. i know this may have something to do the saying that no two ports are exactly alike. But anyway i would like u guys to take a listen (if u can hear anything over my coolant buzzer) and tell me what u think. Is this a "healthy" ported idle?

It would be really cool if some of you guys could also post your idle videos too!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dl2igJ-67qU

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

I dunno man, does it ever smooth out and actually idle or does it just surge like that?

kjdakilla

i havent been able to get it to smooth out at all. which is why im kinda worried...

dawicka2

Is there any way you can put coolant in the radiator, or disable the buzzer? Really hard to hear, man.

john ny

Craiger

iTrader: (1)

You seriously need to do some tuning. Usually a surging idle means you are trying to make it idle too lean. To stop the buzzer either fill you coolent properly, or jumper the wire at the rad to ground. Either way you really should fill you coolent properly sooner rather than later. It would be easier to hear what is going on if you took your sound clip from outside the car with the hood up as well.

Stanello

iTrader: (1)

It's running on one rotor.

Do a compression test and go from there. It might be something simple, like a fouled plug.

Craiger

iTrader: (1)

I actually suspected that too, but I wanted to hear an under the hood clip before I said anything. Good to know i'm not going nuts.

NotTTT

Yup, had a recent re-introduction to that sound a few weeks ago.

I'm surprised no-else else made the comment - a BP with a safc

kjdakilla

thats what i was afraid of too. i did some searching and found an old hailers post that said to buy new plugs and put em in.... ride around for a lil bit and pull the plugs out and check em. I did that yesterday and all of the plugs looked exactly the same when i pulled them out. slightly browned. could it be an injector issue causing it to run on one rotor? I know its not the plugs or coils cuz they are all new. The plug wires are about 2 days old also.

Stanello

iTrader: (1)

I was just coming back here to make that exact comment. Although this engine doesn't sound very "bridgy".

Craiger

iTrader: (1)

Yes and injector issue could cause if to run on one rotor. I would suspect it is an issue with a primary injector if that is the case, since at idle it is only the primaries that should be fireing. Does it at any point while your driving feel like the second rotor kicks in?

BTW, if an injector is not fireing be very careful out driving, when the secondaries come on this could cause a lean condition in the rotor where the primary is not fireing.

kjdakilla

as far as the afc goes i havent made any adjustments at all on it other than hooking it up and setting the sensor information (5 in, 5 out) and telling it how to read my throttle voltage. Just put in yesterday. the car runs exactly the same with it in as it did with it out. cuz i havent changed anything.

had a compression test done at mazda (cuz i work there) a few days after i got it running and the numbers were in the 7's on both housings. Not even 7's but more like 7.2 7.3 7.3 on first housing and the 7.1 7.2 7.2 on the second housing. These arent exact numbers cuz i did it like 3 wks ago but this very close. I will find the print out tomorrow to give exact figures. i was told that as i break the motor in the compression would go up.

kjdakilla

Dang man thats exactly what it feels like! i was just telling my brother today that the car feels like it has no torque or hp until about 3800/4000 rpms. Thats around the time my secondaries come on right?

NotTTT

No it doesn't. It's also dropping down pretty low in the RPM's to be a bridge and it def sounds like one rotor. Hell, when my STOCK port motor lost the front rotor (as in zero comp all faces) I had to feather the gas to keep her going.

Somethings terribly wrong........... aside from running with no coolant.

NotTTT

New coils? I find that difficult to believe.

kjdakilla

not new as in BRAND NEW, they go for like 500 bucks brand new. They are used coils. The plgs and plug wires are brand new. (why so anxious to find a lie?) and it used to idle at 2 grand before i found a thread about how to get the idle down and followed the procedures. ultimately i found that the throttle plate was being held open too far so i closed if off a little bit and it brought the idle down and the timing was advanced too much.

Craiger

iTrader: (1)

That's exactly when they come on!!! I would say with a high level of certainty that you have a primary injector that is not fireing!!! YOU ARE AT HIGH RISK OF A LEAN CONDITION ON ONE ROTOR ABOVE 3800RPM!!! I actually wouldn't drive the car untill you get that sorted out.

kjdakilla

as far as if its a "bridgeport" or not the honest truth is im not sure (hence the name "name that port"). as stated in my opening post i havent been around alot of bridgeported motors. Only from pics on diff sites like aaroncake or mazdatrix and pics ive seen here on 7club is where i have been able to see bridge/streetports.

My engine is the first one if seen in person and the first one ive really had interactions with. Ive seen alot of them at the track kickin *** tho. I do have pics of the engine apart while my mechanic is doing the port. He called it an aggressive streetport.

Marshessn

iTrader: (-1)

are you all retarded!!!!???
search hunting idle.
very common after such radical engine modifications. the heads up should have been the fact that you are not running an engine management system. just an afc.

jesus.

kjdakilla

thanks alot man. your information prob just saved my engine! I will buy all new injectors tomorrow and put em in. (Thank god for federal tax return! This tax money is burning my pockets up!)

And BTW there is coolant in the car, that wire on top of the radiator that leads to the idiot light has a short or something somewhere. No matter how much coolant i put in or how much u "burp" the radiator to be sure its full it still buzzes its butt off. And im not leaking coolant anywhere. It just never stops buzzing...EVER! I plan in using the fsm to rewire it tomorrow.

Stanello

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, it has a surging idle. But it's still running on one rotor...

NotTTT

I'm sorry, but are YOU retarded? Have you not a clue what a healthy rotary sounds like? Obviously not. I can't imagine all the great knowledge and insights your other 54 posts have provided.

Yeah,
a) buying all new injectors is probably the last thing you want to do. Perhaps a little touble shooting first? What if it's an electrical problem? New injectors won't solve that
b) Rewiring the idiot light/buzzer? Is the coolant topped off now? You said you keep loosing coolant, but your not leaking it. Sounds like a water seal to me.
c) who built this motor? Not to jump the gun but you may be in need of a teardown. One rotor and constantly loosing coolant is not the way an engine is supposed to be.

Marshessn

iTrader: (-1)

Learn to read much?

maybe i have 54 posts because i don't just post stupid *** **** on the boards and act like i know what i am talking about.

This guy has a frankenstein motor that he has not even attempted to tune. end of story.

NotTTT

Yeah, so I would really just not say anything more about, "learn to read," or anything else that enters that little head of yours.

Regardless, whether or not is a frankenstein motor, it's running on A STOCK ECU, I've never seen a 1300 rpm hunt on a stock ecu regardless of how out of wack the TPS is. That's not even the point - ONE rotor is the point. It's obvious there are other problems here than the typical hunting idle. Or can you just not hear it?

Thanks for playing though, I'll be sure to put you on my ignore list.

kjdakilla

naw dude, i said im "not" leaking/losing coolant anywhere. I crank the car with no rad cap and let it idle for about 30 mins and had no bubbles at all. I found this in the FAQ's. The coolant light just stays on constantly. it always has since the very first crank. It will buzz forever i just been mostly ignoring it cuz of the other stuff i been tryna fix cuz i know its got to be malfunctioning.

And you are right about buying new injectors may not fix my problem, but it will be one less thing to worry about. Plus its not like im on a tight budget right now i have the money set aside for this car already. I will probably find some threads on what the voltage should be going to the injectors and check all the wiring with my voltmeter when i put the new injectors in.

The wiring on this car is pretty old so that could very well be the issue. Either way i would want new injectors if for nothing else than piece of mind.

The guy that built the motor is a real legend in my town. Not that hes the best in the world or anything but he is really good. He has built almost every rotory that has eva been fast here in columbus ga. Really cool guy. He let me come to the shop everyday before he started on my motor just to watch him so i could learn more about porting. I have full confidence that this motor is good. He had me purchase the atkins master rebuild kit before he even tore the motor down.

Anyway today i plan to do some troubleshooting, put in new injectors, fix the coolant light, and make another video to show u guys. Thanks for all the help so far.