It's boosted from the factory, this was not a non turbo to turbo project. Would a bridgeport or streetport have that much of an affect to where I shouldn't even drive it on the stock ecu and injectors?

 

If it was my freshly built bridgeported motor I wouldn't be hitting 5,000rpm without fuel control and WBO2 installed. Any fresh rebuild should be kept out of boost for the first couple hundred miles.

 

Hey thanks man. And i will keep u guys posted. my rx8 actually turned out really good. It's now running 9lbs max boost, I ran some pretty good times at the track and the last time I got it tuned/dyno it put down some good numbers. It's funny cuz it seems most guys on this forum are able to do the tuning themselves but on the 8club it is highly recommended that u take your car somewhere. Hopefully thru this project I will learn how to do some of those things myself. It would really be alot cheaper too.

 

I hope I didn't tear anything up. How many mile should someone go without boost on fresh rebuild? The full break in?

 

That depends on who you ask but most people will wait at least 500 miles before any boost. Some people have very specific break in rules that they follow, I just kept mine below 3,500rpms for the first 500 miles and then below 4500 until 1000, then I just gradually eased into more throttle. I waited until 2,500 miles before I went above stock boost levels.

 

Like I said, enough to be REALLY dangerous to a rotarys health.

Compression ratio really has nothing to do with actual compression.

That's a really long break in time unless using new seals and worn housings. But, I guess better to be safe than sorry

 

heh. i got careless and started romping on it the moment i could get it drive.

i know exactly where top speed is. i was there last week.

 

I kind figures u would know of em. Really cool people over there man, it was really a great experience for me. They really took care of me. I would recommend em to anyone, Im still rockin my "topspeed" sticker on my rx8!

 

I kind of skipped all the posts after mine because I couldn't follow them, so I apologize if this has been covered...

Yes, I was completely serious about it being a vacuum leak. The hunting idle is a classic sign of a large vacuum leak, combined with a TPS that is out of lunch. The ECU has no idea where the engine is and is trying to find an idle by ramping the BAC up and down.

I don't think it's bridgeport at all, just running poorly. A bridgeport not only has a very distinctive idle, but it has a very distinctive decel sound and I don't hear any of that.

 

ditto. get the tps fixed, and then find the vac leak.

 

You can use an UNLIT propane torch to help pinpoint the vac leaks, just crack the gas open a little bit stick it in front of the air intake - the rpms should rise due to adding fuel to the mixture. Now take the torch and stick it where you think the leak might be, around the injectors, UIM , intake tract, listen for the rpms to pick up when the gas enters the vac leak. This has worked for many many people. You can also pressurize the intake tract with some air and see if you can hear the massive leak.

 

UPDATE

Today the rain stopped and i was able to get out and do some of the things u guys mentioned. I was able to find one small vac leak at the back of the UIM and i think the secondary injector rail requires a vac line so i put one there. I could still have some hard to find ones so i will try the torch procedure green budd suggested tomorrow.

I was also able correct the hunting idle based on u guys help also. The TPS was way off. I was not however able to really tell if it still may be running on one rotor or not. My "rotory listening skills" are not yet advanced enough recognize if it is or not. I tried a procedure i found in my FSM. It was basically a dummy proof way to test the injectors. It said to tie the injectors down with wire and hit the ign to see if they are spraying and they all did. I did this with the new injectors in, to yet again rule out the wiring to the injectors as being the cause of it running on one rotor.

I made a video to let u guys hear the difference in the idle with new injectors, TPS adjusted, and a couple of vac leaks fixed. I never mentioned that i havent put my exhaust system back together yet so the car is running open racing beat down pipe. (another reason why i cant tell what to listen for, the exhuast is so loud)Please check this video out and tell me what u guys think. Its idling a lil bit over 1000 but its holding in one place now and not surging. I havent done what green budd said yet to adjust the idle but i plan to do that tomorrow also.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6ejIX4H-7E

Any better?

 

I plan to do this tomorrow. I was looking at part 2 of ur t2 thread and your car is really clean man. Engine bay is emaculate. Did the engine bay yourself too?

 

sounds like you blew seals on a rear rotor

 

that sucks. wouldnt a compression test reflect that?

 

yea .. but it may be skewed due to the port (if i remember correctly)

 

It does sound vaguely bridgeported. However you can get the same noise by running any port (including stock) stupid rich.

Doesn't sound like two rotors though. Put a new set of plugs in the car, run it for half an hour or so, and then pull the plugs. You'll be able to tell if one rotor is not firing.

Edit...How much vacuum is it pulling?

 

^^^Aaron is right that does sound kinda like a BP but.....idk. running on one rotor? I from what I heard it sounds like its on two.

 

Sounds much better already man. Yeah I did the engine bay and thought it came out good, I'm still doing little things here and there...

 

yeah it's blown i can take a vid of my turboII it sounds exactly like yours.

 

Testing for a blown engine is easy:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/blown.htm

 

My vac is a little low. Its at 13/12ish. I know on my 8 i was told if it gets near or goes below 13 theres somethong wrong somewhere.

So I guys I found a problem that im really too embarrased to even post. But here it goes anyway... Everyone prepare to laugh and I accept all bashing. I had the spark plug wires in the wrong firing order... Now that that's off my chest. Believe it or not the car runs a he'll of alot better when it's actually in the correct firing order.

Something else that continues to bother me is that air bleed socket that the primary injectors sit in. Like I said in an earlier post, the one on the rotor closest to the firewall is clearly broken or bent. I shined a flashlight down in and saw it. I'm not sure when it happened.

I was talking to a friend of mine who has had his fc for forever and he said I should only be concerned if I know for sure a piece of fell down onto the rotor. I really want to do what green budd did really clean up my engine and engine bay. Would it be worth it to have the engine taken apart in search of this piece of of any damage it may have caused?

I know if the housing gets deformed in any way I could have some huge problems and this could possibly be already be in the process of happening. I'm about to read over that blown engine link posted by Aaron and if he has anything on there that is remotely familiar to what I have going on I think ima take it and have my guy go in and see what's going on. That will also give me time to to go over green budds stuff and play copy cat.

 

The one part is supposed to sit at an angle like shown above, is this what your seeing??

Post a vid of what it sounds like now....seems like it should be pretty good.

 

that's exactly what I'm talking bout. It looks like one of them is broken. I mean I could clearly see that it was very rigid and split/broken compared to the other one where u could see that it was completely in tact. It looks like it has been jabbed or poked at.

I will make a new video prolly tomorrow. I'm at dinner with the n-laws posting from my iPhone. (periodically laughing at lame jokes is killing me)