NA to TII wiring harness fix?
04-27-10, 12:50 AM
#1
OasisAvatar
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NA to TII wiring harness fix?
Alrighty, I've swapped and 87 TII into my 86 and am trying to reuse my 86 N/A harness. I've search and read up but I can't find detailed enough instructions on what EXACTLY needs to be changed.
Could someone please shed some light onto this issue? Whats needs to be lengthened or what pins need to be swapped?
Thanks for any help guys and gals! (Heres to hoping I'm closing in on my issue.)
Could someone please shed some light onto this issue? Whats needs to be lengthened or what pins need to be swapped?
Thanks for any help guys and gals! (Heres to hoping I'm closing in on my issue.)
05-02-10, 08:38 PM
#3
OasisAvatar
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Yeah, your post was one of the great ones that helped me figure out my swap in the first place. But I need detailed instructions. Like step-by-step? Can anyone help, please?
05-02-10, 10:14 PM
#5
OasisAvatar
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When using the NA engine management harness, The wire running to Pin 1R needs to be cut or wired up to a knock box. Personally, I just cut it and taped off the ends. I agree that the knock box is useless.
Pin 2K is for the split air solenoid on NAs, but for the twin-scroll solenoid on turbos. If keeping emissions, a J-spec ACV does not use a split air solenoid, which will free this wire up for the twin-scroll system. I suggest using the S5 turbo and manifold however, so you can forget this system altogether.
Pin 3D is for the fuel pump resistor/relay on turbos, but is unused on manual NAs. However, on Automatic NAs, it runs to the inhibitor switch. But lets face it, no ones converting to turbo and using an AT transmission . So the wire at this pin can really be ignored in most cases.
Lastly, if you're using low impedence injectors on a high impedence NA harness (87.5-88), you will need to buy resistors to wire in (www.mouserelectronics.com, I bought some 6 Ohm, 10W ones here) & you will need to modify the injector clips or buy low imp. clips and splice them in. High impedence injectors have a tab that is centered, while low impedence have an offset tab (mine did at least, chime in if some don't have this). I solved this problem by carving some of plastic out of the clips with an exacto knife.
Also, you can also use the S4 convertible ECU N338 in place of N332 or N333. Apparently it was setup to run both engines (http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/ecutype.html). You won't be able to get the N338 chipped by Rtek, but not everyone will want to do this.
Pin 2K is for the split air solenoid on NAs, but for the twin-scroll solenoid on turbos. If keeping emissions, a J-spec ACV does not use a split air solenoid, which will free this wire up for the twin-scroll system. I suggest using the S5 turbo and manifold however, so you can forget this system altogether.
Pin 3D is for the fuel pump resistor/relay on turbos, but is unused on manual NAs. However, on Automatic NAs, it runs to the inhibitor switch. But lets face it, no ones converting to turbo and using an AT transmission . So the wire at this pin can really be ignored in most cases.
Lastly, if you're using low impedence injectors on a high impedence NA harness (87.5-88), you will need to buy resistors to wire in (www.mouserelectronics.com, I bought some 6 Ohm, 10W ones here) & you will need to modify the injector clips or buy low imp. clips and splice them in. High impedence injectors have a tab that is centered, while low impedence have an offset tab (mine did at least, chime in if some don't have this). I solved this problem by carving some of plastic out of the clips with an exacto knife.
Also, you can also use the S4 convertible ECU N338 in place of N332 or N333. Apparently it was setup to run both engines (http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/ecutype.html). You won't be able to get the N338 chipped by Rtek, but not everyone will want to do this.
Pin 3D, do I need it or not? I have turbo engine now in a NA chassis... do I need fuel pump resistor/relay (or hook it up?)
Are these the ONLY three things (cut 1R, Repin 2K and something with 3D) I need to be able to reuse my harness?
05-02-10, 10:58 PM
#6
For pin 2K, run 2 wires from the split air solenoid plug to the twin scroll solenoid (if using an S4 turbo).
Ignore pin 3D, I was just pointing out the difference for automatics. Don't put a turbo resistor/relay in. That would be complicated, and it's just not necessary. Most people do away with it when rewiring their fuel pump anyway.
For 1R, just cut the wire at the ECU plug and tape off both ends.
Extend the 3 TPS wires to reach the throttle body.
Extend the 2 BAC wires to reach the opposite side of the intake manifold.
Ignore pin 3D, I was just pointing out the difference for automatics. Don't put a turbo resistor/relay in. That would be complicated, and it's just not necessary. Most people do away with it when rewiring their fuel pump anyway.
For 1R, just cut the wire at the ECU plug and tape off both ends.
Extend the 3 TPS wires to reach the throttle body.
Extend the 2 BAC wires to reach the opposite side of the intake manifold.
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05-08-10, 09:43 PM
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If you put the TII engine in the N/A car,then you do not have to Wire the fuel pump to bypass the relay.The relay,I am sure is only on the TII Chassied cars,and not on an N/A car.That is another advantage of putting the TII in and not using the TII harness!
05-08-10, 09:59 PM
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yeah I wan't to get rid of that relay anyway. I've been putting off rewiring my fuel pump, but I need too. I found that when I play CD's my HP drops alot!! like AC in a low horsepower car. a good 15 to 20 on the butt dyno. so I've got some electrical issues....
anyone know if the interior harness for lights and what not are interchangeable from T2 to an NA seems like it should be. I don't mind swapping to a NA gauge cluster if thats needed. I have a aftermarket boost gauge anyway. I'd like the voltage gauge.
anyone know if the interior harness for lights and what not are interchangeable from T2 to an NA seems like it should be. I don't mind swapping to a NA gauge cluster if thats needed. I have a aftermarket boost gauge anyway. I'd like the voltage gauge.
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